The Cape Dory Board

If you are speaking of the standard Spartan ports on most CD's remove the exterior bronze wood screws and you should be able to pry the trim ring off. Most likely caulked on so use a soft wood backer to pry against the fiberglass. If the screws no longer have a purchase drill 3/8" hole in that ...

Plywood core beneath bow cleats on my boat. It was saturated from water intrusion. Replaced with 1/2" FRP.

I used Interlux zinc primer and their Perfection 2 part urethane top-coat 5 or 6 years ago when re-finishing my spars.
Sprayed it on. it was easy to use and has held up well. Prep is key, follow manufact's directions.

I have 1 set of reef points and use a 6" pendant on my staysail, which is hanked on. I've been considering a furler for it, perhaps one of these days I'll get to it.

I've had a downhaul on my mainsail for some time. It's a great benefit when you need to douse that sail quickly. After a few trips you get in the habit to ensure the dousing line and halyard run clear when raising or lowering the sail. A cost effective improvement. If you don't like it release the k...

Do you know what year CD ? Never seen one before

in a previous life I used to restore antique homes. When refinishing floors, often pumpkin pine, typical schedule was 3-4 coats of gloss followed with 2-3 coats satin. it produced an almost 3-dimensional look with depth.

Barlow makes a cleat,(or used to ) that fits the aluminum track of your sheet cars. Not a perfect solution but they help for spring lines etc.

I replaced both hatch lights,(lenses) a few years ago. Pompanette, who at the time owned Bomar I believe, recommended G.E. Ultra Glaze for the caulk. I got it from them. Clean aluminum frame properly, prime and paint if you want. The company said screws not needed.Has held up well, no leaks or issues.

I had water egress issues from the cabin top hand rail fastenings on both sides. Had to re-core and fair those areas.
Maybe the water is entering from that source.

5200 can be removed but it takes some effort and solvent to do it cleanly. I use it when I want a permanent bond. I've not used sikaflex but heard it's a good choice. 4200 would work as well. I reinstalled the original transducer with 5200 after barrier coating the hull maybe 10 years ago. The trans...

3m 5200
Anytime I caulk a fitting to the hull/deck I bevel the top of the hole slightly. Same for bolt holes for fasteners on the exterior. Example, for a 1/4-20 screw the bevel would be 1/16 of an inch.

If your 25D has a heavy fiberglass, gel coated engine bed liner and your engine intake thru hull goes thru it a backing plate isn't needed in my opinion there. My liner is at least a 1/2" thick inside the hull. I replaced the engine intake sea cock a few years ago with a bronze ball valve. Be s...

I also replaced seacock backing plates with FRP a few years ago. It is tuff stuff, it can be worked with woodworking tools. It will dull carbide quickly but a sharp blade should get you through the project. A grinder with aggressive abrasive discs and cut off wheels work pretty well. Once fitted to ...

A good weather window and a nighttime sail with a moon is indescribable, particularly with a phosphorescent wake marking your way.