We are continuing to search for the leaks which allowed water into the core of our side decks. It seems that all of the holes for stanchions and chain plates go through solid fiberglass. This has led to questions about the track for the jib leads that is recessed into the side decks. I have always assumed that this has no core, but is that really true?
Removing it is not trivial, as the nuts on two of the four bolts are completely hidden behind the headliner. It looks as though they drilled holes in the headliner with a hole saw to install these nuts, and then fiberglassed over the holes. We would rather not cut new holes to remove the nuts just so we can take a look at it.
Has anyone any knowledge about the construction of this area? Could it be the source of the leaks? Since water sits in this recess all winter, it could provide a lot of water. Thanks.
Inner Jib Track on CD33
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Inner Jib Track on CD33
Tom and Jean Keevil
CD33 Rover
Ashland OR and Ladysmith, BC
CD33 Rover
Ashland OR and Ladysmith, BC
Re: Inner Jib Track on CD33
Tom, I replaced some damp core around the starboard inner jib track last year on my CD 33 (hull #85, built 1983).
That recessed track sits on solid fiberglass. The core around it was 1/2" balsa. You aren't the only one who is mystified
as to where moisture is getting into the core.
I had thought that the water was getting into the core via the eyebrow fasteners, leaking down the cabintop
sides and thence sideways into the core. I was told (and now believe) that is highly improbable. Like you said, all
the deck hardware goes through solid glass. I have no cracks in the side deck. The areas of high moisture (found with
a moisture meter) are near the starboard inner track and adjacent to the starboard first porthole, extending out about
a foot or so and forward from there a little bit.
There's no moisture around the forward cleat or other fasteners. So I'm as flummoxed as you are. I know
what you mean about the two aft bolts on the track - they weren't easy to remove and replace.
Good luck with your investigation and if you discover anything, let me know. - Jean
That recessed track sits on solid fiberglass. The core around it was 1/2" balsa. You aren't the only one who is mystified
as to where moisture is getting into the core.
I had thought that the water was getting into the core via the eyebrow fasteners, leaking down the cabintop
sides and thence sideways into the core. I was told (and now believe) that is highly improbable. Like you said, all
the deck hardware goes through solid glass. I have no cracks in the side deck. The areas of high moisture (found with
a moisture meter) are near the starboard inner track and adjacent to the starboard first porthole, extending out about
a foot or so and forward from there a little bit.
There's no moisture around the forward cleat or other fasteners. So I'm as flummoxed as you are. I know
what you mean about the two aft bolts on the track - they weren't easy to remove and replace.
Good luck with your investigation and if you discover anything, let me know. - Jean
Jean - 1983 CD 33 "Grace" moored in
Padanaram Harbor
Massachusetts
Padanaram Harbor
Massachusetts
Re: Inner Jib Track on CD33
I had water egress issues from the cabin top hand rail fastenings on both sides. Had to re-core and fair those areas.
Maybe the water is entering from that source.
Maybe the water is entering from that source.
CD 30c #42
S/V "Bluesails"
+ 41.69989
-70.027199
S/V "Bluesails"
+ 41.69989
-70.027199
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- Posts: 3621
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- Location: S/V Far Reach: CD 36 #61 www.farreachvoayges.net www.farreachvoyages.com
Re: Inner Jib Track on CD33
Having completely gutted the Far Reach to include removing the entire headliner and recoring a fair portion of the deck I can tell you it can be very tricky to determine the source of some leaks. Because the deck was hand laid there are small voids throughout the deck core. I suspect most of them are where the upper and lower fiberglass skins meet--just inboard of the hull deck joint as well as where the vertical sides of the cabin top meet the deck. Water can get in there through a variety of sources and simply migrate along the voids till it finds a place to pool in the core.
Sometimes it's obvious where the leaks are. Sometimes not. It maybe that once you rule out the likely suspects your best bet is to rebed as much hardware as possible and hope that solves the trick.
In my experience, the eyebrows leak badly. That's why I removed them. But, most leaks rundown between the cab side and the headliner then run across the headliner to the outboard edge and then down the hull between the ash ceiling and the hull. Sometimes it shows itself by dripping down into the interior via overhand light fixtures and what not.
Anyone that doubts how much water can get inside via the eyebrows and deck joint should look at some of the pictures I posted on my website in the "gutting the interior" tab.
Sometimes it's obvious where the leaks are. Sometimes not. It maybe that once you rule out the likely suspects your best bet is to rebed as much hardware as possible and hope that solves the trick.
In my experience, the eyebrows leak badly. That's why I removed them. But, most leaks rundown between the cab side and the headliner then run across the headliner to the outboard edge and then down the hull between the ash ceiling and the hull. Sometimes it shows itself by dripping down into the interior via overhand light fixtures and what not.
Anyone that doubts how much water can get inside via the eyebrows and deck joint should look at some of the pictures I posted on my website in the "gutting the interior" tab.
Last edited by John Stone on Aug 25th, '16, 07:34, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Inner Jib Track on CD33
" It maybe that once you rule out the likely suspects your best bet is to rebed as much hardware as possible and hope that solves the trick. "
John, that's the idea I'm following for now. I was sure the eyebrow fasteners were leaking, so I epoxied in
1/2" round fiberglass plugs with blind (not through) 10-24 threads, then screwed in short 10-24 flatheads to attach the
eyebrows. It was a long job. The ports look good , but one of the handrails show moisture,
(like Ron's) so that'll be a job for the fall. That's about all you can do. - Good luck on your further sea-faring adventures,
by the way - Jean
John, that's the idea I'm following for now. I was sure the eyebrow fasteners were leaking, so I epoxied in
1/2" round fiberglass plugs with blind (not through) 10-24 threads, then screwed in short 10-24 flatheads to attach the
eyebrows. It was a long job. The ports look good , but one of the handrails show moisture,
(like Ron's) so that'll be a job for the fall. That's about all you can do. - Good luck on your further sea-faring adventures,
by the way - Jean
Jean - 1983 CD 33 "Grace" moored in
Padanaram Harbor
Massachusetts
Padanaram Harbor
Massachusetts