The Cape Dory Board

The system described by Tom was added by owners to previous years. Didn't know it ever came standard but it is easy to fabricate. You have to put a wooden block in the center of the underside of the hatch if there isn't one there already. 3M 5200 time. Then an eye is attached to that block and a che...

I agree totally that the standard routing works fine and puts the halyards as noted out of the way of the vang. The main gets it's tension from the Cunningham (since you surely aren't still using a downhaul on the boom), and the jib is such a small sail that human power should get it pretty darn tig...

Maybe they thought the anchor would lodge in the obstructing vessel which would conveniently sink immediately and act as a very large mooring block?

At least two flavors of winches seem to have been on the Ty's. The GIBB winches come off with the removal of the obvious center screw in the top. BE CAUTIOUS...two little springs and pawls inside! The best way is to unbolt the winch from the bracket and do it on a bench. If the mounting bolts to the...

I got a mast crotch part from a Hobie trailer and modified it to bolt temporarily onto my outboard mounting board with carriage bolts and wing nuts. It allows the mast to be supported at the stern while getting ready to raise it. Actually the mast crutch that was inquired about in the initial post. ...

For trailering I have a mast crotch on my trailer ahead of the bow that is even with the cabin top...in answer to the question of a mast crutch on the stern. Fenders on the cabin distribute the weight of the mast. Raising is very similar to Greg's info, except we do it on land for stability. Also I ...

From the post about 15 knot winds needing a reef, my feeling is that the Ty is a lot stiffer than that. Definitely reef when your Ty is going to be at more than 20 degrees of heel, but that takes more than 20 knots. 15 to 20 knots should sail just fine with full main and working jib without putting ...

Paul, While you are at it, my suggestion is to rig the boom height to where it clears you when it swings across. On a Ty there isn't any reason to have to duck (excluding long torso 6'-4" nephews etc). Then fix the boom location with a permanent stop below and a removeable one in the sail track...

From my past observations, the foot can be judged correct if there is 4" to 8" still remaining on the boom with the outhaul pulled taught. Also if the luff is wrong, the boom end will be way lower than where the gooseneck is fixed. You didn't say anything about the leech, but I have found ...

If you don't already have a compression post or aren't happy with the one you have, this is a good time to provide a good top receiver plate for it under the mast step. When I replaced mine, I used longer mounting bolts and attached a modified block to the underside while rebedding.
Just a thought.

You can compare West Marine to other prices also. They have a very good help tool for how to order the correct lengths. I like the idea of sending in your old rigging, but I didn't want to be without my boat when I did it, so ordered by length instead. It came out very well but it can be tricky.

Hi, If it is that choppy that safety is an issue, why not just rig a jib dowsing line so that no one has to go forward? The bow of the Ty is such a great place: 1. For crew to get on when pushing off, 2. ditto to step onto the dock when coming in under sail, 3. or too hot under power or a gust, 4. f...