The Cape Dory Board

Thanks Dick. I came to the same conclusion yesterday morning, so went ahead and cut all new bulkheads out of marine plywood, which a friend had already coated in epoxy. It's a chore getting those bulkheads into position, but I got them, and they look a lot better than the old junk.

Thanks.

A lot of the guys on here have a lot more experience with this stuff than I do... but I had a similar problem with my 25 last year. I ended up grinding out the crack as best I could, then putting a space heater in the bilge and a fan above that in order to dry it out. I also used a shop vac tapered ...

Hello everybody. I have a couple questions about "redoing" the interior of my boat. I tore the bulkheads out of my 1974 CD25 last year, and now I'm installing them. I'm not trying to do anything super fancy, just want it to be nice and solid. So I sanded the peeling veneer off, but now I'm...

Yeah, that sounds similar to mine. I've ground away the bad glass surrounding the holes in the keel, and in doing so discovered the source of the problem. The resin or bondo at the bottom of the bilge had separated from the hull, as had the scant layer of fiberglass, allowing bilge water to get into...

An update: I now think that the foam in the keel was done by the manufacturer--the boat is a 1974. Has anyone tried to remove or dry-out this foam/filler? Perhaps the old posts I've read that concern weeping keels were all dealing with the same sort of saturation, they just don't mention the foam......

The previous owner of my boat drilled some small test holes in the aft part of the keel, between the ballast and the rudder. I opened them up in order to fill them, and found not only some water, but saturated foam. I've read through a bunch of past posts about weeping keels, but I haven't found any...

ps

I forgot to mention that the existing hole is in the middle of the chine, so the curvature of the hull doesn't allow the through-hull to seat evenly. When I bought the boat, they just had a length of hose hanging out of it.

Thanks, Steve. My concern is that it would be underwater much of the time--I read that the exit should be well above the potential water line, and the boat's that I've looked at since then all have their bilge pump through-hulls closer to the gunwale than the water line. There was no through-hull in...

The current through-hull hole on my 25 is nearly at the water line, and I'm doing some glass work on the hull, so this a good time to reposition it. Does anyone have any advice as to where best to put it? It's on the starboard side now, and I'm thinking of just moving it up higher--that way I can st...

Thanks, Stan. It is a 1974 CD 25 that I stumbled into, not knowing much about sailboats. No stuffing box; I was searching for the right term for the fiberglass tube that the rudderpost goes through. My question is a broad one. I'm dealing with some damage to the area at the top of the rudder, where ...

In doing other work on my rudder, I discovered some damage to the hull around where the rudderpost enters the hull--I'm not sure of the correct terminology here... Beneath the layers of old bottom paint, I found some previous repairs on the hull, both fore and aft of where the rudderpost enters. The...

O J, I looked through the archives and couldn't find the gudgeon discussion you mentioned--the one I found from MarkA was about a pin that I don't think I have on mine... unless I'm totally in the dark here. I'm needing to replace the three pins through the keel. My concern in doing so is getting th...

Thanks a bunch. I'll check it out.

I'm new to sailboats and happened to buy an old CD25. Long story short, I've taken the gudgeon and heel (?) off, since the glass was corroded and the pins worse than that. I have two questions: One, I saw in some past discussions that some of the CD rudders need to be glassed around the rudder post;...