CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Hello everybody. I have a couple questions about "redoing" the interior of my boat.
I tore the bulkheads out of my 1974 CD25 last year, and now I'm installing them. I'm not trying to do anything super fancy, just want it to be nice and solid. So I sanded the peeling veneer off, but now I'm debating between using those or just replacing them with new plywood (I read a similar discussion from this winter about 27's).
When removing the forward bulkheads from the V-berth, two of the "tabs" or arms broke off. By this I mean that the 2" - 3" horizontal parts of the bulkheads broke off. (I think the newer CD 25's might not have this same design--from the reefroof website, I see his have a flared shape instead of a rectangle.)
I'm wondering if these are cosmetic or structural, and what my options might be. Could I reuse what I have and scab pieces in where the broken arms once were then trim it out? I'd be a lot more inclined to replace them altogether if I hadn't: 1) spent all that time sanding the veneer off, and 2) wanted to spend money that I don't have on new materials.
Has anyone replaced their forward bulkheads? As tight as they fit, I'm having a hard time envisioning even getting them in there without breaking the horizontals off a new piece.
Thanks for any ideas.
Jon
I tore the bulkheads out of my 1974 CD25 last year, and now I'm installing them. I'm not trying to do anything super fancy, just want it to be nice and solid. So I sanded the peeling veneer off, but now I'm debating between using those or just replacing them with new plywood (I read a similar discussion from this winter about 27's).
When removing the forward bulkheads from the V-berth, two of the "tabs" or arms broke off. By this I mean that the 2" - 3" horizontal parts of the bulkheads broke off. (I think the newer CD 25's might not have this same design--from the reefroof website, I see his have a flared shape instead of a rectangle.)
I'm wondering if these are cosmetic or structural, and what my options might be. Could I reuse what I have and scab pieces in where the broken arms once were then trim it out? I'd be a lot more inclined to replace them altogether if I hadn't: 1) spent all that time sanding the veneer off, and 2) wanted to spend money that I don't have on new materials.
Has anyone replaced their forward bulkheads? As tight as they fit, I'm having a hard time envisioning even getting them in there without breaking the horizontals off a new piece.
Thanks for any ideas.
Jon
- tartansailor
- Posts: 1535
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Re: CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Bulkheads on our boats are very important.
They support massive loads when the standing rigging
is properly tuned and you find yourself in a blow.
BTW whenever you replace wood be sure to epoxy encapsulate it
before the final finish.
Dick
They support massive loads when the standing rigging
is properly tuned and you find yourself in a blow.
BTW whenever you replace wood be sure to epoxy encapsulate it
before the final finish.
Dick
Viam Inveniam Aut Faciam
Re: CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Thanks Dick. I came to the same conclusion yesterday morning, so went ahead and cut all new bulkheads out of marine plywood, which a friend had already coated in epoxy. It's a chore getting those bulkheads into position, but I got them, and they look a lot better than the old junk.
Thanks.
Thanks.
- Terry
- Posts: 119
- Joined: Jul 14th, '08, 14:31
- Location: CD-25 Cassandra #567
Lake Lanier, North Georgia
www.jonahzsong.com
Re: CD 25 bulkhead structure?
While Cassandra's (1977 CD25) bulkheads seem only to need a light sand and varnish, are they still structurally sound? How do I know?
All the best, Terry
All the best, Terry
-
- Posts: 3535
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 20:42
- Location: '66 Typhoon "Grace", Hull # 42, Schooner "Ontario", CD 85D Hull #1
Re: CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Hi Terry,
Something that you could first try is to stick a semi-sharp instrument into the wood to check for rot. Don't use anything needle sharp, maybe a finishing nail. If it penetrates the wood easily, there is a good chance that there is rot involved.
Test the panel on the top as well as the bottom for moisture penetration in the end grain. For this reason, why many advocate sealing the end grains and encapsulating the panel with epoxy or polyester.
When testing the panel for rot, be careful to avoid the fiberglass used for tabbing.
Good luck with your project.
O J
Something that you could first try is to stick a semi-sharp instrument into the wood to check for rot. Don't use anything needle sharp, maybe a finishing nail. If it penetrates the wood easily, there is a good chance that there is rot involved.
Test the panel on the top as well as the bottom for moisture penetration in the end grain. For this reason, why many advocate sealing the end grains and encapsulating the panel with epoxy or polyester.
When testing the panel for rot, be careful to avoid the fiberglass used for tabbing.
Good luck with your project.
O J
"If I rest, I rust"
Voting Member #490
Voting Member #490
- Terry
- Posts: 119
- Joined: Jul 14th, '08, 14:31
- Location: CD-25 Cassandra #567
Lake Lanier, North Georgia
www.jonahzsong.com
Re: CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Thanks OJ. I'll do as you suggested.
All the best, Terry
All the best, Terry
-
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Nov 24th, '11, 08:53
- Location: 1975 CD25 239 Moon Shine
Re: CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Hello,
If any of you have a marked up paper or cardboard copy of your OLD or new bulkheads I would love to buy a copy, or borrow them long enough to mark and cut out new veneered plywood bulkheads for our recently purchased 1975 CD25. Why you ask? Because a previous owner had cut out the starboard side of both bulkheads to open that side up, and installed a nice little cabinet in its place. They did install 2 wooden dowels/legs top to bottom where the front bulkhead was, but they are for appearance sake only, since they use a single totally inadequate, loose screw on each end. There is no compression capability. I need to go back to the original design, and I have nothing to work from for a pattern.
Please advise if anyone has anything that might help us.
Thanks,
BobC
If any of you have a marked up paper or cardboard copy of your OLD or new bulkheads I would love to buy a copy, or borrow them long enough to mark and cut out new veneered plywood bulkheads for our recently purchased 1975 CD25. Why you ask? Because a previous owner had cut out the starboard side of both bulkheads to open that side up, and installed a nice little cabinet in its place. They did install 2 wooden dowels/legs top to bottom where the front bulkhead was, but they are for appearance sake only, since they use a single totally inadequate, loose screw on each end. There is no compression capability. I need to go back to the original design, and I have nothing to work from for a pattern.
Please advise if anyone has anything that might help us.
Thanks,
BobC
BobC
Citrus Springs, Florida
Citrus Springs, Florida
-
- Posts: 217
- Joined: Nov 24th, '11, 08:53
- Location: 1975 CD25 239 Moon Shine
Re: CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Hello OtterHill, and all,
I asked yesterday about a pattern for my own CD 25 project. Are your bulkheads 12mm (1/2") thick? I looked up the price today for that thickness in standard (very good) marine grade interior plywood with teakwood veneer. Hmmm-a little over $200 plus shipping. The ones in our boat were cut away and painted white over the old mohogany. Actually it looks pretty good, but I would rather have the design bulkheads back for strength. If I can not find templates (anyone?) I will buy some 1/8" cheap luan to make up the patterns before running a blade thru the good stuff--and epoxy all the exposed edges to seal them.
BobC
I asked yesterday about a pattern for my own CD 25 project. Are your bulkheads 12mm (1/2") thick? I looked up the price today for that thickness in standard (very good) marine grade interior plywood with teakwood veneer. Hmmm-a little over $200 plus shipping. The ones in our boat were cut away and painted white over the old mohogany. Actually it looks pretty good, but I would rather have the design bulkheads back for strength. If I can not find templates (anyone?) I will buy some 1/8" cheap luan to make up the patterns before running a blade thru the good stuff--and epoxy all the exposed edges to seal them.
BobC
BobC
Citrus Springs, Florida
Citrus Springs, Florida
- David van den Burgh
- Posts: 597
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 18:54
- Location: Ariel CD36, 1979 - Lake Michigan
- Contact:
Re: CD 25 bulkhead structure?
Here's a straightforward way to make your own bulkhead templates: http://alberg30project.blogspot.com/201 ... lates.htmlAstronomertoo wrote:Hello OtterHill, and all,
I asked yesterday about a pattern for my own CD 25 project. Are your bulkheads 12mm (1/2") thick? I looked up the price today for that thickness in standard (very good) marine grade interior plywood with teakwood veneer. Hmmm-a little over $200 plus shipping. The ones in our boat were cut away and painted white over the old mohogany. Actually it looks pretty good, but I would rather have the design bulkheads back for strength. If I can not find templates (anyone?) I will buy some 1/8" cheap luan to make up the patterns before running a blade thru the good stuff--and epoxy all the exposed edges to seal them.
BobC