The Cape Dory Board

I am in need of advice on how to fiberglass over the exterior hull to deck joint.

• What radius of a curve is best for the flow of the cloth?
• What is the best tool for grinding the edge?
• How to grind consistently and to an even depth?

Anyone’s experience would be greatly appreciated.

Mike, When I took possession, a tight fitting grate was in place over the cockpit sole. The grate concealed the ruin of the core. I am happy with my repair and even happier that it is behind me. Your boat looks clean and this is a case of a stitch in time ... The teak on my boat had cracked down the...

There is a block that surrounds the rudder post. While the teak sits on this block, I do not believe that it is a structural component. It must be removed for rebedding. Water can penetrate not only through the four screws that fasten the teak, but also at the seam between the floor and the block. U...

For commercial hatches, I'd consider the Bomar cast aluminum 15"X24" OVAL 104612 ( http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/hatch-bomar-commercial-cast-alum-15x24-oval-104612-/4,131.html ). However, I also agree with Carl that this hatch would only be of marginal utility. In order to wor...

Cockpit repair was not high on my list, until I discovered that water was dripping on the engine (an improperly installed inspection hatch by the PO). During the repair, I considered adding a better inspection hatch, but good quality hatches are expensive and I wasn't confident that I could create a...

I prefer gauges to be at eye level. However, chances are that one will not be watching a gauge at a critical moment, therefore the need for lights and buzzers. Once there are lights and buzzers, the gauge location is less important. I believe the 1GM has an oil pressure switch (oil pressure opposes ...

I am not too concerned about the bolts. I believe that they will come off in time with liberal and repeated applications of penetrating oil, tapping, etc. The issue at hand is separating the clamp from the steel tube. The clamp may be tight on the tube to start with. The clamp has an "opener&qu...

The clamp (the gray piece with the two stainless steel bolts) is high-end cast aluminum. Considering the value, an acetylene torch would be risky. However, changing temperature can help to separate dissimilar metals. I am considering putting ice in the tube and using a propane torch (with care) on t...

I have a 2" stainless tube in an aluminum clamp, that are stuck together. I need to reuse the aluminum clamp, but I will not need the full length of the steel tube. Does anyone have a suggestion for removing the aluminum oxide and seperating the clamp from the tube? http://cdn.cruisersforum.com...

After a shakedown cruise on my new (old) boat, I wasn't satisfied with the location of the engine panel or the chart plotter. Like everything else on my sailboat, I made compromises and came up with something to try. I am currently building a control panel/box to mount on the port side of the cabin....

Why was it mounted in this way? The screws, bolted through the teak collar, make the rudder post/block semi ridged with the cockpit floor. Is there a reason that the block was not mechanically attached to the floor? When I re-cored the floor, I epoxied it in place. I have wondered if this was correc...

I found the same thing on my CD28. The block was hidden under a teak collar. Neither the edge nor the through bolts that held the teak in place, were sealed properly to keep water out of the core. So much for the "QA" in the Cape Dory Video post. http://www.cruisersforum.com/attachments/ga...

Thanks for the positive feedback.

The black panel is ABS plastic. The material is textured on one side and smooth on the other. It is available in various dimensions on eBay and amazon. I used a 12â€

My 1976 CD28 had a basic panel, with 9 toggle switches and 9 panel holders for AGC glass fuses. I wanted its replacement to be simple, reliable and flexible. I tried to achieve this through the use of toggle switches, accessible blade fuses, adhesive lined heat shrink terminals and oversized wiring....

2tocruise,

Did you also change the pins on the mast tangs from 5/16" to 3/8"?