CD27 Cockpit Floor / Rudder Post Question....

[Mike Raehl]

Hello, It has been some time since I posted due to other commitments but spring is coming and commissioning work has begun. Here in Chicago we seem to have cancelled winter for this year.

Last summer when I washed the boat with the dock hose I would get a small amount of water in the engine pan. Maybe in the bilge as well but not enough to activate the pump. So last week I went looking for the source of the "leak". The first suspect is the teak "plate" in the cockpit floor that the rudder post passes through. It looks like the bedding compound between the teak and deck is compromised in a number of places. This teak appears to be attached to the deck with four screws coverd with bungs and a line of bedding compound around the rudder post. Can the teak be removed and rebedded or is it structural in supporting the rudder post? If I remove it, will there be a large or a small hole in the deck? Large enough to clean out balsa core and epoxy the edge? Should I leave the teak in place and just force a line of Life-Caulk bedding coumpound between it and the deck surface?

The second possible leak is the bulkhead compass teak trim ring. The sealant had failed here as well but it was easy enough to remove, clean and rebed.

Thanks,

[hilbert]

There is a block that surrounds the rudder post. While the teak sits on this block, I do not believe that it is a structural component. It must be removed for rebedding. Water can penetrate not only through the four screws that fasten the teak, but also at the seam between the floor and the block. Unfortunately, there is no space to clean out the and seal the core at the seam. The screw holes can be drilled out and protected with epoxy plugs. This is what it looks like with the teak removed:

[Mike Raehl]

Hilbert,
Thanks so much for your responce. This board is great. Your picture is just what I needed to plan my attack and to explain to the First Mate what I am doing. Looks like digging out balsa core and creating an epoxy barrier is called for, not just by enlarging the existing screw holes but also by drilling a series of new holes around the metal block so the epoxy can make a complete seal.

Have you finished your repair and how did it come out? Did you remove your teak plate in one piece by sliding it up over the rudder post? Is that a grease fitting on your rudder post shaft? My CD27 doesn't have one. Here's mine....

[barfwinkle]

A very interesting piece of information. Thank you for sharing the pic Hilbert.

Fair Winds

[hilbert]

Mike,
When I took possession, a tight fitting grate was in place over the cockpit sole. The grate concealed the ruin of the core. I am happy with my repair and even happier that it is behind me.

Your boat looks clean and this is a case of a stitch in time ... The teak on my boat had cracked down the center, probably from the flexing of the cockpit sole. I don't know if it would have slipped over the fitting at the top of the rudder post. I discarded it, after I fiberglassed the rudder post (block and all) into the new sole. The grease nipple was there and I don't know its origin.