Engine Panel Rebuild

[Frank Vernet]

So here is Sirius' engine panel that I will refurbish this winter. As you can see it needs a lot of TLC. The Amp gauge has been missing since we took possession. I've never seen the Oil Pressure light come on.



This rat's nest actually starts the engine with fair consistency, and displays engine RPMs and temp.



I'd like to replace the annoying glow plug buzzer with another silent form of indication such as a light. Thoughts?

What is the purpose of the silver box that is mounted to the back of the tack? What is it called?

[trapper]

Your pics did not make it

[Frank Vernet]

hmmm...I see them in both Preview and published.

Is anyone else able to see them?

[bottomscraper]

Is anyone else able to see them?

Yes I can see them.

[Oswego John]

Frank,

Yes, and in glorious technicolor.

O J

[Maine_Buzzard]

The silver box might be a regulator. The temp gauge needs a constant voltage to read accurately, and sometimes a regulator is used to drop the voltage to 6 - 8V, so the readings don't fluctuate when the engine is revved. It has the proper number of terminals for that.
Measure the voltage on the pink wire. Is it less than 12 - 13? (Ignition on) I can't quite see where the blue wire goes, that would help. I don't get why the tach would run on that too. It may have similar needs for constant voltage.

I don't like the way the wires are run if it's a regulator. It could also be the buzzer running in parallel to the oil light and switch. That would make the pink wires the switched ignition, and that would make sense as to how they are wired. If the switch was not working (stuck open) the light never comes on and the buzzer never buzzes. Try grounding the wire to the iol pressure sensor. Any light or buzzer?

That smashed ammeter really won't work with the wires cut too. Is there a shunt left on the negative cable to ground? It would be a candy bar sized chunk of copper with multiple fins trapped between two terminal blocks. 3/8" studs and screw terminals for the matching severed wires.

[Frank Vernet]

James,

Thank you for the response - I found it extremely informative and gives me reason to pause as I consider how best to rehab this panel. I had assumed, maybe incorrectly, that I could merely replace the gauges and rewire eveything in the same manner, albeit more neatly.

I will post another picture of the panel that shows the reverse of the 3rd picture to include the blue wire you mention and the wire harness.

Frank

[Maine Sail]

Frank,

You may want to read this post before you begin...

http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/sh ... ostcount=1

[Frank Vernet]

Maine Sail,

Thanks for the vector. That is great information. I have a sneaking suspicion that I will be frequenting your site more often. Loads of good stuff there.

Frank

[Matt Cawthorne]

Frank,
Here is my version of an engine control panel rebuild.


http://www.cawthorne.org/ECP.html

Two recommendations. If you are making a new box as I did, I would take a mold of the side of the cockpit to form the basis for the mold for the part. The reason being that the side of the cockpit is not exactly flat.

Also, while you are at it you could make the wood mold such that the individual instruments are facing slightly up and aft.

Matt

[Frank Vernet]

I just received from teleflex the instructions for the installation of an Amega Tachometer for diesel engines. I have not purchased any gauges yet.

This tachometer gets its signal from the alternator and the alternator must be marked with R, AC or W. One must also set the Tach's Range Selector Switch to a setting based on an Alternator Poles (8/10/12/14/16) and Pulley Ratio (x.xx:1) table.

Question: Is this standard for diesel engine tachs?

Frank

[Matt Cawthorne]

My Perkins diesel uses the same arrangement. There is no adjustment for the number of windings/poles on the tach so switching to a new alternator required a check of the calibration.

[Bob Ohler]

While working on the panel, has anyone considered or installed an engine start switch and glow plug button inside the cabin? On occaision, it would have been nice to have.

[mike ritenour]

Frank,
I'm looking for a pic of my rebuilt panel and haven't found it yet.
However I took my abused plastic one to a local sheet metal shop and they fabricated a beatuiful one out of s.s..
Think it cost me about $175.00.
Looks really sharp and has worked like a charm for many a year.
That post from sailboatowners .com really shows the hidden damage that can occur.
Rit

[Oswego John]

Mike,

This may sound like a complaint, but its not. Maybe it could be classified under the catch-all phrase "Constructive Criticism".

One of the few things about your boat LaVida and similar others that I feel could be improved is the location of the control panel.

To others that are reading this, Mike's CD 33 panel is inches above the sole on the stb'd vertical storage compartment partition below the seat.

When I was at your helm, I thought to myself that if I wanted to read the meters, I would have to leave my position and go forward of the wheel, stoop down low to the floor to read them. What could the CD designers have been thinking? Maybe it all boiled down to saving a few $$$ in construction.

To me and my way of thinking, the ideal place for a control panel is in full view of the helmsman for instant viewing and in easy reach for any expedient adjustments necessary to maintain safety. Of course, protection from weather and spray should be a consideration, too.

Thinking deeper on the subject, I believe that it would be a major project for an owner to reinstall a panel from its existing location to an improved spot for easier viewing. Very major.

Just thinking out loud again on a blustery, early winter afternoon, wondering what else I can crab about until supper is ready.

Go Ohio State,
O J