The Cape Dory Board

Thanks for the responses.

This is where we continue to have issues getting the problem fixed...finding someone to actually do the work. Does anyone have a suggestion for a competent diesel injector pump rebuilder? East coast preferred.

Thank you for any leads.

Adam

Hi there esteemed sailors, Hoping to get some suggestions for repairing/rebuilding/replacing fuel pump on our otherwise perfectly functioning and original Volvo Penta. Any thoughts on someone in NYC/Tri-state area who could do this work? Anybody know someone parting an engine with a functioning fuel...

[quote="NarragansettSailor"]I like the rod idea that adamganz posted, but I'm wondering if the teak coaming is clamped between top and bottom while the epoxy sets up? Also, is penetrating epoxy applied to the crack before clamping? In a related post to that link, another solution was to dr...

While you're working on the engine, maybe repack the stuffing box. I inspected all the thru-hulls in my 28 when i first bought it but didn't think about the stuffing box and ended up with a geyser when I first put the boat in the water.

See towards end of this discussion for photos of interested.

http://www.capedory.org/board/viewtopic ... 0&start=30

A quick response to the original post. I had similar splitting of my coaming boards. Last season I carefully drilled vertically from the top down the center through the split in five locations using a 10” long bit. I then inserted a SS rod smothered in two part epoxy in each hole. This has held up p...

Thanks! I'll give rigrite a try. Looks like the flat top stainless is a pretty close match. Incidentally rigrite has two flat top versions that they say are used on cape dories...both of those stanchions have something called black delrin tops (instead of stainless). I guess this is a plug that is c...

it was only a matter of time. Guy next to me was attempting to sail to his mooring and got tangled up with my boat. Fortunately no damage to anything but the lifelines and two stanchions. The offender has offered to replace but I want to make sure we find the right replacements. I've looked at Spart...

I think my situation may be somewhat unique, requiring fleet (and safe) movement, unless I motor with no sails to and from the mooring, in which case there are no issues. I'm in Brooklyn NY, and like housing and the subway, our mooring area is packed like an ant farm. If the wind is from the west, I...

I sail almost exclusively single handed - CD28 - and have thought about bringing the halyard back to the cockpit and installing lazy jacks. Haven't pulled the trigger yet. I have a couple of situations where things get hairy and would like to piggy back on this thread to see what techniques others m...

see how easy it is....

...but before you go through the process of replacing the flax, try tightening the stuffing box:

"Loosen" the lock nut (clockwise looking aft)

Tighten the packing nut (also clockwise looking aft)

"Tighten" the lock nut (bring it back into contact with the packing nut)

archie, i just went through two seasons with the same issue. Last year I burned through a couple of batteries with my auto bilge pump and ultimately had to ask a friend to manually pump out the bilge if i was unable to get to the boat for more than a week. My lock and packing nuts, like on many cape...

Thanks all. One thing i just realized is that while the wrenches from Cape Dory were useless before the box was repacked, they might work now as the packing and lock nuts are up to a 1/2" forward of where they were - with potentially more space to squeeze in a wrench. Hate to get my hopes up. T...

Thanks everyone. Very helpful. The paint is ablative so it sounds like I can remove it fairly easily...next fall. Boats now in the water. somewere on this site I saw a repainted 36 with the boot stripe and the white space all painted brown., and the bottom paint a slightly darker brown/red/almost bu...