Stripped Threads on oil dipstick - Yanmar/Kanzaki gearbox

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mashenden
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Joined: Apr 3rd, '05, 19:19
Location: "Nautica" CD-36 #84, Ty-K #83, & CD-10 #1539 in Urbanna, VA. 4 other Tys in past
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Stripped Threads on oil dipstick - Yanmar/Kanzaki gearbox

Post by mashenden »

In case anyone else has this common problem happen to their Yanmar/Kanzaki gearbox (mine is the KMW3 A) and wants to avoid the $45-$80 cost for a replacement, this is what I did. Some assembly required, but not overly difficult...

I ordered a couple of aluminum oil drain plugs, M18 x 1.5mm, from 5150 Motorsport LLC - SKU #900-219-020-31-MS118 (http://www.5150motorsport.com/). I believe they are used on Porsches, etc. They are about $4.50 plus P&H. Total cost, under $16 for two.

Then the old plastic crappy threads were cut off the old dipstick. The metal dipstick is in there too, so the idea is to only cut through the plastic all the way around, leaving the dipstick in place (ref 3rd pic below).

A hole was drilled through the new plug so that it can slide onto the oil stick (ref 5th pic below)

A couple of small holes were drilled into the rim and into the plastic to act as a key in case the epoxy was not enough to hold the unit together when twisting it in and out (ref 5th pic below)

Lastly it was all epoxied together, while being careful not to somehow clog the vent hole that is in the orange piece. This is a critical vent - DO NOT CLOG IT!! I am told pressure will blow out your seals if it is not properly vented.

Here are some pics of the various steps.

The problem:
Image

The process... Plastic threads removed from the oil dipstick:
Image

The old and the new, side by side:
Image

Holes drilled, two small ones and a larger one in the middle - ready for epoxy and assembly...
Image


The final solution (less the needed o-ring):
Image

I painted mine matte black so that you can actually see oil on the dipstick when checking the level :?

Technically, the Full level line (the one and only line) will now be off by the thickness of the rim on the plug, but I don't think its THAT critical. Hell, 45% measure the level by screwing the dipstick in and another 45% do not screw it in to check the level (these are hard facts based on years of scientific analysis... or not). Then there are the folks that maintain the level between the line and the plug - OMG!!

I plan to maintain mine about half way below the line when not screwing it in to check the level.
Matt Ashenden
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff :)

Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
drb9
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Joined: Feb 8th, '05, 14:00
Location: Cape Dory 26GenesisHerrington Harbour (MD)

Re: Stripped Threads on oil dipstick - Yanmar/Kanzaki gearbo

Post by drb9 »

That looks like a creative solution (albeit to a problem I don't have with my trusty little outboard-powered CD). You might consider drilling small holes through the cap, lined up with the holes you drilled in the new piece, and pushing small nails down in, to transfer more torque to the metal piece and have less stress on the epoxy.
I set sail in the confident hope of a miracle
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mashenden
Posts: 510
Joined: Apr 3rd, '05, 19:19
Location: "Nautica" CD-36 #84, Ty-K #83, & CD-10 #1539 in Urbanna, VA. 4 other Tys in past
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Re: Stripped Threads on oil dipstick - Yanmar/Kanzaki gearbo

Post by mashenden »

drb9 wrote:That looks like a creative solution (albeit to a problem I don't have with my trusty little outboard-powered CD). You might consider drilling small holes through the cap, lined up with the holes you drilled in the new piece, and pushing small nails down in, to transfer more torque to the metal piece and have less stress on the epoxy.
:)

While I did not explain it very good, that is exactly why they are there. Thank you for making this clearer.
Matt Ashenden
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff :)

Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
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