PORT HOLES - RESEALING?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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MICHAEL AND NANCY
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mar 13th, '05, 20:57
- Location: SEDNA, '90 CAPE DORY 28 FLY BRIDGE, POINT PLEASANT
PORT HOLES - RESEALING?
WE HAVE A CD 28 FB - ANY THOUGHTS ON RESEALING THE PORT HOLE WINDOWS? Tips or comments?
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Ron Legan
Port Light Sealant
I have had excellent results using AutoWindshield Silicon sealant for leaks. I found out about this product from THIS board and tried it on a small leak several years ago. Leak fixed with just one try.
The product is sold in auto-part stores and hardware. It is a fluid silicon and flows into the area to be sealed. It is removable and can be used other places around the boat.
I first clean the area and rim around the port with solvent, remove any loose stuff. I then apply a small amount of WD 40 and spread with my finger (if necessary). then I apply (squeeze) a bead if the sealant around the rim, I then apply some WD 40 to my finger and smooth (again if necessary). My results were excellent. The seal is almost invisible and looked clean and neat. I have shown others this method and ALL agree it is worth a try first before pulling the port and rebedding.
Last time I talked about this method of repair someone brought up the fact silicon can cause problems if you need to paint or gel-coat over or near the area treated. True, but I always prep very well before I try any type of repair and to date it has not been a issue (for me) . And again we are talking a small bead of sealant.
The sealant cost a few dollars and I always keep a tube in the boat, it usually comes in handy for something.
The product is sold in auto-part stores and hardware. It is a fluid silicon and flows into the area to be sealed. It is removable and can be used other places around the boat.
I first clean the area and rim around the port with solvent, remove any loose stuff. I then apply a small amount of WD 40 and spread with my finger (if necessary). then I apply (squeeze) a bead if the sealant around the rim, I then apply some WD 40 to my finger and smooth (again if necessary). My results were excellent. The seal is almost invisible and looked clean and neat. I have shown others this method and ALL agree it is worth a try first before pulling the port and rebedding.
Last time I talked about this method of repair someone brought up the fact silicon can cause problems if you need to paint or gel-coat over or near the area treated. True, but I always prep very well before I try any type of repair and to date it has not been a issue (for me) . And again we are talking a small bead of sealant.
The sealant cost a few dollars and I always keep a tube in the boat, it usually comes in handy for something.
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Carter Brey
- Posts: 709
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:02
- Location: 1982 Sabre 28 Mk II #532 "Delphine"
City Island, New York - Contact:
Port Light Sealant
Ron, is this the same as Permatex windshield sealant?
Thanks,
CB
Thanks,
CB
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ron legan
Yes, I believe so, I do not have the tube in front, but it is a small tube and cost about $3.50. it is clear/ slightly cloudy, but dries clear.
I have used this product on just about every seam on the boat. Really. I am not saying this takes the place of the true fitting sealers, but as a back-up, why not.
Last year while cruising in Canada, I moored next to a large motorcruiser that had large windows and the owner was trying to seal a leak, he had stuff all over the window and when asked.. said this was a problem do to flexing of the top-sides and the large amount of glass/ frame. I gave him the same advice and a left over tube. He later wrote me an E-mail and said how well the sealer fixed the leak.
Try a practice seam if you can. It does work better when used with the WD 40. I worried the WD 40 would cause the sealer not to stick, but this does not seem to matter.
Again I am sure you have the right stuff. If it will seal a car windshields??
Good luck.
I have used this product on just about every seam on the boat. Really. I am not saying this takes the place of the true fitting sealers, but as a back-up, why not.
Last year while cruising in Canada, I moored next to a large motorcruiser that had large windows and the owner was trying to seal a leak, he had stuff all over the window and when asked.. said this was a problem do to flexing of the top-sides and the large amount of glass/ frame. I gave him the same advice and a left over tube. He later wrote me an E-mail and said how well the sealer fixed the leak.
Try a practice seam if you can. It does work better when used with the WD 40. I worried the WD 40 would cause the sealer not to stick, but this does not seem to matter.
Again I am sure you have the right stuff. If it will seal a car windshields??
Good luck.