I've HAD IT With Epifanes !!!!

[Julian]

Sorry to sound like an advert but it's great stuff. You have to follow the instructions and better still get your other half to put it on! Seriously though there is nothing that can touch it for quality both on boats and other projects. We've tried several types on outdoor projects and canoe gunwales etc.

I have been told that when Epifanes needs advice on their product they contact Woodwind Yachts in Ontario. I've seen some of their work and it is really good. Maybe worth contacting them.

Julian

[rtbates]

The Teaqua on Seraph was applied in June. Three coats. I've had it on my teak patio furniture since August 05.

As for fresh vs salt, like most everything, I suppose salt would not be as kind. But then again as long as the surface repels water things shouldn't get too bad too quickly. What I've found is the biggest advantage over varnish, Cetol and all the other coatings is that since Teaqua is 100% IN the wood not on top, there is never any problem with moisture getting under the finish and lifting the coating. The entire edge of our toe rails where it meets the deck is nothing but an opening just waiting for moisture to get under. Unless of course you remove all the teak and finish on all sides. I've actually heard of some who did this! Personally I'd much rather go sailing than work on Seraph's teak.

Each to his own, said the man as he kissed his cow![/list]

[rtbates]

Your teak looks beautiful. BUT you're cheating!! It's covered!!! haha Now we're comparing apples to oranges. I'm currently designing a FULL sunbrella cover for Seraph, stem to stern. Then my teak will look great forever, as long as I don't go sailing!!

[mahalocd36]

But then again as long as the surface repels water things shouldn't get too bad too quickly.

Randy, we have not found that Teaqua repels water.
Water seems to soak right in, not sit on the surface.
(Not all of our teak has 3 coats yet, but some does).
We do something wrong with the application I wonder?

Yes it was easy to apply (once we got the wood down to bare,
which was the hard part) but we are not particularly impressed with the look. Don't get me wrong, it looks a heck of a lot better than it did with the Armada, and it does let the beauty of the teak show, so for that it's good.

Melissa

[Sea Hunt]

I looked at a sailboat the other day in the Florida Keys that had beautiful teak coamings, handrails, hatch, etc. The owner told me he had put on 13 (!!) coats of “ZAR”, marine grade, two (2) months ago. He said it applied easily and he did not have to sand between applications. He said he had worked in the marine industry for a while (expensive yachts) and ZAR was very popular within the marine industry.

I am a newbie/tadpole and know very little about teak, varnish, etc. However, this stuff sure looked beautiful (not “orangey” like Cetol) and, according to the owner, very easy to apply.

I searched for it on the web. I think this is a good link:

http://www.ugl.com/zarxoilpoly.html

Anyone ever try this stuff

[Dan & Pat]

Varnish is a cult driven process. In refitting "Play it Again Sam" we've taken to removing and replacing several sizeable pieces of teak. . . to the tune of about $400 in lumber now . Making the new match the old, or worse yet, making the old look like new has been a genuine challenge. I've purchased 3 qts of Man-O-War varnish, two of Cetol Light Gloss, and one Cetol Gloss, and have had good luck in alternating coats.

I love the look of nice brightwork, and have to say that one of the first impressions I had of the CD was that it had character hidden below the grime and grundge of the wood. When Pat and I first visited Boyd on his CD 30, he was in the process (albeit eternal) of re-finishing some pieces. We discussed the pro's and con's of different finishes, but in the long run I had to agree that varnish was the most appealing and natural looking finish.

I am about to put on a new teak combing board on the stbd. side. It has been sitting in a jig for a week now to initiate the 3" warp that is needed to set it in place without stressing the screws too much. The plan is to put 3 to 5 coats on the whole board before installing it, then 5+ more coats on top of that. Where it meets the aft piece is my biggest concern, as this is brand new wood meeting 30 year old wood. Blending the coloration will be my big issue.

No matter how you look at it though, varnish, cetol, or any other finish will eventually have to be re-done. I feel that the process is as rewarding as the results, and I happen to enjoy the relationship I have with my wood. The "doing" is almost as rewarding as the "done" when you have folks complement your work.

[rtbates]

You've not applied enough product yet I'd venture to guess. It soaks in and with additional applications the product should migrate toward the surface. Be sure to initially apply an excess amount and allow it to soak in for 5-10 minutes before rubbing it down. Water beads after 3 coats on Seraph's teak. I'm sure the porosity of each piece of wood will effect how much it takes to fully soak in..

[Ron M.]

D&P,
I replaced my combing boards a year ago with a full 7/8" teak. I had heard of others steaming and or coaxing the new wood in a form to take the camber neccesary. None of this is needed. Cut your notches on each end fore and aft. Place in position (both or one at a time). Get a 2x4 and cut it approx. 3/4 " longer than the distance between the two installed boards just fore of the center. Jamb that 2x4 in there at an angle on the lower edge, and gradually straighten it as close to perpendicular as needed to force the teak outward against the fiberglass combing, it will go up nice and tight. You can make any adjustments needed and transfer screw locations. If you finish the teak first protect the area that will contact the 2x4. I used machine screws with fender washers and nylocs instead of the sheetmetal screws that were original. Your are only talking 2 or 3" of bend at the center and the material is certainly capable of accommodating that much force.
________
GIRLFRIEND PICTURES

[Chuck]

Yes Randy, how long? I remember your post from earlier this year. But it takes a year or more to really put any product to the test.
Chuck

[Ray Garcia]

I have used both Cetol and varnish. I still believe nothing beats varnish for look. I like the Cetol for easy of use, its a forgiving product to apply. Varnish needs a little more patience. I already had to sand out a few drip marks; I loaded the brush too much. This is only coat #3 of 8 planned. But I must admit there is something very remedial after working in Manhattan all day to come home and slap a coat of varnish on the tiller. I plan on doing all the exterior woodwork with exception of the rubrail with varnish. I expect the rubrail will require a little more attention so I will probably use a different finish.
[img]http://cd27spirit.us/images/board/tillerB.jpg[/img]

[img]http://cd27spirit.us/images/board/tillerA.jpg[/img]

Yes those are cheapo throw away brushes. I never know what to do with the solvents after cleaning the brush. They seem to work just as well as the expensive ones.

[Dan & Pat]

Ron,

I considered simply coaxing the combing board in place like you described, but decided to try stressing it at least a little first. I do plan on coating the back of it with a few generous coats of varnish before installing it. The new board was entirely custom made for me by a local shipright and it fits like a glove.

I'm also going to relocate the screw holes rather than re-using the old ones and I too like the idea of machine screws and fender washers. I don't like the plastiloc nuts though, they usually have spring steel liners that rust out after a few years, leaving a nasty stain and compromised strength.

When I removed the old board, I noticed that there was no bedding compound. I believe this indicates that someone at some time had removed the board and not taken the trouble to reinstall it properly. I am going to bed the wood properly when I put it back in this weekend.

Dan