Wobbly stanchions

[Warren Kaplan]

I just reinstalled the stanchions on my CD27 today. They are usually taken down, with the lifelines, when my boat is shrink wrapped for the winter.

In the spring I place the stanchions back in the stanchion bases and tighten the little set screw to "snug up" the stanchions in the bases. These are very small screws that go thru a threaded hole in the stanchion base and then into a threaded hole in the stanchion itself. This, to me anyway, is a pretty flimsy design, as it is not uncommon for the thread to strip even if you are careful, when you tighten it up.

The screw, even when turning in a stripped thread, will prevent the stanchion from pulling out of the stanchion base, but because the screw is no longer able to be tightened, the stanchion will wobble in the base. Not a monumental problem but it bothers me!

I suppose the answer might be to drill a slightly larger hole in the existing holes and then tap the new holes to accept the larger diameter screw. But that cure would also be susceptible to stripping in future years.

Has anyone drilled clean through to the other side of the stanchion base and perhaps used a long bolt, two washers and a nut (through bolting, if you will) to try and make a more secure set up? Any other recommendations for permanently curing the wobbly stanchion, short of shoving shims down between the stanchion and stanchion base, would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[Russell]

I have a few wobbly stanchoins as well, also a few slightly bent ones. One of my summer projects is to remove all of them, straiten the ones that need straitening and finding a way to make them more solidly connected to the bases. Rather then a long bolt that goes all the way through I was thinking in addition to the one screw thats there, adding a second one oppose it, then to the other sides two more screws that are regular set screws, not tapped into the stanchoin itsself, but just adding pressure to keep things tight. Not sure of this setup yet so very curious myself to hear of other peoples ideas. I have considered also removing all the bases and having the stanchoins welded to the bases, certainly the strongest option, but limits future maintenence.

[Oswego John]

Hi Warren,

It would prove very difficult to install a fastener through a threaded base and then into a threaded stanchion. If the first screw is tightened, it would be next to impossible to do the same with the second screw. The stanchion has to "float" to equalize the distances, although miniscule, between the threaded base holes and the threaded, mated stanchion holes.

In most situations, the base holes would be drilled out for fastener clearance, and the stanchion drilled and tapped for that same fastener.

In order to centralize the stanchion in it's base, quite often three screws are used, 120° apart. Something like the three legged milk stool theory.

If there is excessive wobble between the stanchion and it's base, maybe you could give the stanchion a few wraps of vinyl tape to reduce some of the clearance. Prepunch the tape in order to align the holes.

Just some initial thoughts.
Good luck,
O J

[tartansailor]

Electroplating the bottom of the stanchions would seem to be a permanent correction for tightening up the clearances.

Dick

[JimL]

..you might try knurling them. This is a method I use to relock differential side bearings that have spun in the cast iron case (easy to do when putting too much power through smaller axles).

Using a VERY sharp metal punch, I punch series of "dots" into the metal bore (where the outer race of the bearing rests). These must be pretty even, all the way around. It actually takes quite a few to close it up.

For a stanchion base, it'll be necessary to buck the area with a heavy hammer (against a piece of hardwood between?). It'll require 2 people to do it. When you punch the metal (inside the hole), it raises a ridge around the tiny crater. Enough of these and you'll reduce the size of the hole. You'll be working at an angle, down in the bottom, so use the sharpest point in that area, first. Check pipe fit as you work, until you get what you want.

It shouldn't take much of a hit, if the punch is really good (and sharp). Buck solidly to keep from cracking....start easy and see what you get.

If your bases are stainless steel, it'll work....but you'll probably ruin a few punches! Same technique applies here....buck the impact area with a heavy hammer (I have an old lead hammer that I use). The person holding the buck hammer needs to apply pressure....not just rest against the stanchion base!

Another option is to mig weld (with stainless wire) some very small spots onto the outside of the tube. With a good quality file, you can hand shape them to fit perfectly into the stanchion base. A small, portable 120V MIG can handle SS wire, and it'll be ok with CO2-Argon mix (you're not going after big penetration).

Regards, JimL

[Emil Maurer]

It worried me that the little set screws worked loose.
I replaced the set screws with through bolts and nuts which did stabilize the stanchions. I think that the resulting solidity makes them safer and more able to handle shock or impact if necessary.

[chase]

Warren,

I'm almost positive my stanchions are through-fastened. I cannot remember if they are cotter pins or bolts, but they also have some play in them. I am not concerned about a bit of play so much as the fact that the stanchions present themselves, ever so slightly, beyond the edge of the boat and may get caught one day.

I would not hesitate through-drilling and bolting, but if the socket is slightly larger, you may have to really tighten and distort it to get the effect you're looking for. Perhaps a shim of some kind would help.

Cheers,

Chase

[Zeida]

Warren... regarding your -and everyone else's problem with the loosened stanchions- I also got fed up with mine on Bandolera being "woobly". So after Wilma, when most of the starboard side of Bando was somewhat damaged, (teak toerail, midship cleat, stanchions, genoa sliding block, etc.,) I did exactly what you now say:

[b]I suppose the answer might be to drill a slightly larger hole in the existing holes and then tap the new holes to accept the larger diameter screw. But that cure would also be susceptible to stripping in future years. [/b]

My stanchions and their bases have two screws to contend with. One, at the base, which matches the hole in the stanchion. The other, also at the base, is for the little set screw that tightens the stanchion inside the base.

I did drill a slightly larger hole in the existing holes (base and stanchion) then tapped the new holes to accept the larger diameter screw.

I did the same procedure on the other one and got slightly bigger set screws. Now The stanchions on Bandolera II are as tight as can be, they feel very secure and they make me feel so proud of my being able to deal with the problem and with the solution.

If they last five or six more years, that's fine with me! The P.O. had used a variety of regular screws, no tapping threads on the base-to-stanchion holes, plenty of corrosion, and screws that were falling off, consequently woobly stanchions. I replaced them with 1/2" (small and fat) machine screws. I will send you pictures next time I go to the boat.

[Warren Kaplan]

Thanks all for all your suggestions. Zeida...I think I'm gonna give the two screw larger tapped holes a try...since it worked for you. Do you remember off hand what size machine screws you put in?