Re: Any experience with windvanes for CD36. Experience and q

[Larry Shick]

Many thanks to those who responded to my earlier post on this subject. I'm now the proud owner of a Monitor. Early tests show it working just fine, thank you Some remarks and a question follow...

For those who might care, a couple of pointers: (1) The very early hull numbers of the CD36 (mine is #2) have a lazarette configuration different from the main production run (lazarette hatch is larger), and the standard support brackets from Scanmar for the CD36 didn't fit (you know about "assume"). I took the measurements and Scanmar shipped me a new set of brackets at no charge, which fit perfectly. (2) The "sheets" (control lines led to the wheel) are unobtrusive, IMO. I led the starboard line to a turning block at the very aft end of the port coaming, thence forward to a block on the port coaming in the plane of the wheel, thence to the wheel. I led the port line straight to a block on the port coaming in the plane of the wheel, thence to the wheel. This arrangement leaves the lazarette locker unobstructed, and gives access to the aft end of the cockpit around the starboard side. Because my coamings are 1" teak (3/4" actual), I reinforced the coaming in the area of the two blocks by the wheel with a second piece of teak, with the grain running at 90 degrees to that in the coaming.

Now the question: I have cobbled together some shock cord to act as a control line, but it's not a super arrangement. Any suggestions from those who have lived with this kind of system? What do you use for cord? Where did you lead it to? What do you use to prevent slippage? Did you splice it into a loop, and if so how?

Thanks.

Larry



lshick@ibm.net

[Ryan Turner]

Hi Larry,

I'm curious about your choice of the Monitor. They seem great to me -- very strong, relatively light, function well. What other types did you look at? I'm thinking of installing one on my CD33. The Monitor looks like a good choice but I'd like to learn as much as I can about all choices available.

Ryan Turner
s/v Zenobia
CD33 hull no. 100
Oriental, NC



rdtec@aol.com

[Tom]

Many thanks to those who responded to my earlier post on this subject. I'm now the proud owner of a Monitor. Early tests show it working just fine, thank you Some remarks and a question follow...

For those who might care, a couple of pointers: (1) The very early hull numbers of the CD36 (mine is #2) have a lazarette configuration different from the main production run (lazarette hatch is larger), and the standard support brackets from Scanmar for the CD36 didn't fit (you know about "assume"). I took the measurements and Scanmar shipped me a new set of brackets at no charge, which fit perfectly. (2) The "sheets" (control lines led to the wheel) are unobtrusive, IMO. I led the starboard line to a turning block at the very aft end of the port coaming, thence forward to a block on the port coaming in the plane of the wheel, thence to the wheel. I led the port line straight to a block on the port coaming in the plane of the wheel, thence to the wheel. This arrangement leaves the lazarette locker unobstructed, and gives access to the aft end of the cockpit around the starboard side. Because my coamings are 1" teak (3/4" actual), I reinforced the coaming in the area of the two blocks by the wheel with a second piece of teak, with the grain running at 90 degrees to that in the coaming.

Now the question: I have cobbled together some shock cord to act as a control line, but it's not a super arrangement. Any suggestions from those who have lived with this kind of system? What do you use for cord? Where did you lead it to? What do you use to prevent slippage? Did you splice it into a loop, and if so how?

Thanks.

Larry

Re control line. To keep it from slipping Hans at Scanmar told me to take a loop around the big pulley. In other words go around twice before leading the ends anywhere. What I found in using mine is that I don't change course very often and when I do there is no need to do it from some remote location. I simply go back there and grab the pulley with my hands and turn it one way or the other. It has never slipped off that position once set. I did away with all the little blocks, the line and everything. You usually have to trim the sails a little if you change course and you want to watch the compass for awhile to make sure your new course is what you want once you change it so you'll be working around the cockpit anyway and it is no problem to maually adjust it. Or at least that's what I've found. Keep it simple.

When you pull the paddle up you'll find that you will want to anchor it solidly so it doesn't rattle back and forth, make noise at night, and wear the mechanism. I cut a deep vee in a piece of wood and then attached it to the horizontal bar with two large hose clamps. When the paddle comes up the blade fits right in the vee and holds it immobile.

You're going to love your Monitor.



TacCambria@thegrid.net

[Larry Shick]

Hi Larry,

I'm curious about your choice of the Monitor....

Ryan Turner

Ryan,

We pretty well looked at the lot--anything that showed up at a boat show. I went with Monitor largely because of advice from this group and general reputation, but also liked the "all stainless" (it isn't, quite, but close enough) construction. I didn't need or want an aux-rudder arrangement, which excluded many makes.

Larry



lshick@ibm.net