Let's Build a Laminated Tiller

[Steve Laume]

I made the steam bending set up out of stuff that I had laying around. I picked out a really crappy piece of rough cut pine and in hind sight I could have used a better piece but it works fine. The hard part will be finding a metal gas can these days. I have never bent anything that was very thick. I tend to make up laminates out of thinner strips. It is definitely fun to be able to make wood bend like that. Always use a cull piece on the outside of a radius to support the fibers of the wood you are bending.

[John Stone]

Steam box almost complete. I used scraps of siding from our shed build. On the side I used a plywood jig I keep for crown molding. LOL. A piece of 1088 scrap. A piece of 3/4" birch ply from 10 years ago. Dry wall screws. Some old 3/16" rod. I'll get a cheap hinge tomorrow. I don't think the tea kettle holds enough water.

5/8" on thick end so stem at 200° + for 40 min. Sound about right? I'll make hole in bottom for steam inlet. Maybe drill a hole in top for temp gauge.

What's a cull? Is that like a support block to keep it flat to the jig as you bend it around?

[Steve Laume]

Should have a little vent hole in the top. I wouldn't worry about the temperature. Just start your timing when you get a good show of steam, coming out of the vent hole. put the whole set up, somewhere where it will be okay if it drips. The tea kettle would probably work. I didn't seem to use a whole lot of water to make the steam.

Now you will think of all sorts of projects that will need bent wood, Steve.

[wikakaru]

The hard part will be finding a metal gas can these days.

I like that you used an old Topsider Oil Changer for the boiler. Seems appropriate somehow.

--Jim

[Steve Laume]

The hard part will be finding a metal gas can these days.

I like that you used an old Topsider Oil Changer for the boiler. Seems appropriate somehow.

--Jim

It works much better as a steam generator than it ever did as a oil changer.

[John Stone]

The tapered ash strips are steamed and clamped in the jig. I did a test run and got the box to 200° F. But for the real thing I could only get the box to 190° F. Not sure what was different. I scratch my head on that one.

I steamed them for 45 min at 190°. I'm going to reserve my opinion till I unclamp them and see how they look. I'm not convinced I cut the laminations as smooth as I did during the 2009-2015 rebuild. Doesn't matter. I have enough wood for four tillers. So if this effort fails I'll make another.

I learned a lot. It's interesting. I can see the utility in it. Thanks Steve L for the tips.

[Steve Laume]

That should do it. I have been surprised at how very little spring back I have gotten when steam bending things. Since you plan to use a glue without, great gap filling qualities, you could sand the mating surfaces smooth, before the final glue up to get better contact.

That should make a fine tiller, Steve.

[John Stone]

Got distracted with other projects. I unclamped the steam bent ash. Significant spring back. Not sure why. Not hot enough? Not long enough? The rule of thumb I have read suggested 1"=1 hour steaming. I steamed 1/2" thick for 45 min. So I have to extrapolate my next move.

In the meantime I made a better adjustable tapering jig. I also used double side tape to hold the wood against the jig face while cutting. I ripped five more strips. The new jig produced a flatter more consistent tapered strip.

I am contemplating whether I should put a little more bend in the jig to compensate for spring back or not. Maybe steam longer. Probably run another test resteaming the previously bent strips.

[John Stone]

Giving it another try. Resteaming and bending two strips of ash. Let's see how they do. I have new ash strips ready to go if I get better results.

[Steve Laume]

Once you glue and clamp the strips, they should retain the shape. I have aways heard that you should use, air dried wood, instead of kiln dried for bending. Most of the wood, l have is local air dried stuff, so l have no direct experince with kiln dried wood.

[billsimmeth]

Once you glue and clamp the strips, they should retain the shape. I have aways heard that you should use, air dried wood, instead of kiln dried for bending. Most of the wood, l have is local air dried stuff, so l have no direct experince with kiln dried wood.

I concur with Steve. Kiln-dried can be bent but should be "pre-conditioned" first. Here's an excellent article done by Brian Boggs in Fine Woodworking last year...
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/05 ... am-bending

[John Stone]

Once you glue and clamp the strips, they should retain the shape. I have aways heard that you should use, air dried wood, instead of kiln dried for bending. Most of the wood, l have is local air dried stuff, so l have no direct experince with kiln dried wood.

I concur with Steve. Kiln-dried can be bent but should be "pre-conditioned" first. Here's an excellent article done by Brian Boggs in Fine Woodworking last year...
https://www.finewoodworking.com/2021/05 ... am-bending

Thanks Steve and Bill for taking the time to comment. I read a similar article a couple days ago also in Fine Woodworking. I spent a little time today with a cabinet scraper removing saw tooth marks from the wood strips. I coated the ends of each piece of wood with shellack as the other article stated it would prevent excess water in the ends. Tonight I'll put them in the tub to soak for three days. Then steam and bend them. I also read adding ammonia to the water in the steamer helps make the wood more flexible. I read some negative comments about that step so not knowing any more than I do I'll skip that step. All this seems a little excessive for a laminated tiller but perhaps it will payoff. It's an interesting experiment. I am always up for learning something new. I'm not in a hurry. I have a fully functional tiller on the boat.

On another front the head-stay finally arrived in the mail from The Rigging Company. So, tomorrow I'll turn-to on preparing for installing the Harken furler.

[Jim Walsh]

For the furling unit I’d recommend reading the assembly instructions at least a couple times for familiarity and to perform a sanity check. I found a few glaring mistakes and pencilled in the necessary corrections prior to assembly. Had I not been aware in advance it would have had me scratching my head unnecessarily. They were foolish errors and omissions which should have been ferreted out before publication of the document. The hardware itself was perfect.

[John Stone]

For the furling unit I’d recommend reading the assembly instructions at least a couple times for familiarity and to perform a sanity check. I found a few glaring mistakes and pencilled in the necessary corrections prior to assembly. Had I not been aware in advance it would have had me scratching my head unnecessarily. They were foolish errors and omissions which should have been ferreted out before publication of the document. The hardware itself was perfect.

Copy all Jim. I plan to read the instructions and lay all the components out making sure I understand the steps. Also, harken put out a couple videos and a I'll watch them too. Then, read everything again.

It's funny, I installed a 2.5" lift kit in my Jeep along with geometry correction brackets and a new adjustable track bar a couple weeks ago. I read the instructions. I called AEV to clarify a few issues (not great instructions either). Then installed it. No problems. Afterwards, I read on the Jeep forum a number of Jeep owners who installed their lift kits had some trouble. But I don't think they they read the directions carefully. They seemed to miss some important steps spelled out clearly in the instructions.

If you remember some key points please PM or email me. I am always attentive to what others have learned.


Regarding the laminated tiller build--the wood is soaking.

[jbenagh]

Nicely done!
I steamed a lot of wood for a Haven 12 1/2 project a while back and had nearly no springback. I took a lot of care milling the wood to try to have all vertical grain. Wasn't perfect everywhere but pretty good.
Jeff