Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[John Stone]

I spent yesterday developing a plan for routing the engine exhaust hose. Leaning towards Plan A.

I brought the removable center section of the bottom step riser home. I removed the gusset supports. Readers may recall I made them from the off cuts of chopping down the companionway ladder. Satisfied I have them right I used a head gun and pull scraper to remove the old varnish. Took only a few minutes followed by a a light sanding with 220 abrasive paper. Then I applied a 50:50 mix of varnish. I waited an hour and hot coated a second coat cut 15 percent. Tomorrow I will apply the third of seven coats.

[John Stone]

Today I spent time crawling through the boat and measuring and imagining and visualizing the different options for running the exhaust. I took a break for a bit snd completed bolting in the waterlock muffler and reassembling the flex coupling one last time. I was laying in the space behind the engine looking at the muffler when it occurred to me I had overlooked a third option. I forgot the exit nozzle can be rotated. If I rotated it 90° level to the LWL I could run the exhaust just into the port side locker going aft and under the floor/shelf I had built into the locker following the upward slopping hull and then rising up against the longitudinal bulkhead that separates the space behind the engine from the port cockpit locker. Then skirt the stern rope locker and follow the path same as Plan A and B into the lazarette and to the exhaust flange.

So, looks like Plan C, depicted in green, is the way forward. Throughout the entire six year rebuild of the Far Reach I learned time and again if something didn’t seem quite right if I just slowed down and kept thinking the right solution would eventually reveal itself.

I’ll measure the hose length I need tomorrow—which I think is going to be about 10-12’. I’ll have to order it. I have decided on using Vetus Slang50, 2” ID, smooth wall, flexible wet exhaust hose.

I’m slowly getting the boat put back together. I have a number of small projects to complete but i started thinking about the Rub rail this evening. n

[Jim Walsh]

When they routed my exhaust hose they used a hole saw to cut a hole at an angle through the port bulkhead between the engine compartment and the port cockpit locker. I have an access panel in that port bulkhead (actually in both the port and starboard bulkheads) to allow access from the cockpit locker to the engine compartment. They ran the hose from the water lift muffler to the port cockpit locker above and parallel to the access panel then through the aft bulkhead leading to my lazarette, then a loop up before being attached to the exhaust throughhull.
Your solution is very similar but you are routed through a space which does not impinge (in my case it is minimal) on your cockpit locker which is always a plus. Out of the way yet easily accessible for routine checks. It doesn’t get better than that.

[John Stone]

Hi Jim. Sounds like your layout is like my Plan B (in red). I actually liked that plan. Yesterday, I looked at some flexible Shields and Trident exhaust hose and neither were as flexible as I imagined. I quickly realized the neat compact minimal impact solution I had in mind was probably not achievable. But, I am told the Vetus hose is very flexible so maybe I can get close. I’m going to order a couple more feet than I need and not drill any holes or commit to a specific plan till I have the hose on hand.

[JD-MDR]

The Vetus brand seems to be trending. I hadn't heard of them before I read of John's waterlock muffler. I now have the Vetus 35V motor mounts installed. They also had to replace the angle bracket that bolts to the engine. They bored and tapped new holes in the stringers. I motored back to my slip. What a difference a aligned shaft makes. I hope I didn't damage my new v-drive. I must have run it about 20 hrs with my DIY alignment I have a make shift tiller and will go out this weekend across the channel. Still haven't heard from Edson about my steering gear. Here is a photo of the mounts. They made a mess of my drip pan. I think I need to plug the old bolt holes and paint the pan. I'll post photos when I'm done and of the temp tiller.

[John Stone]

Took the Vetus Slang 50 hose to the boat. It’s amazingly flexible. Various options for exit from the boat being considered. All options have drawbacks. If I use the original bronze Spartan exhaust flange in the original location the hose ends up looped forward and then storage accessibility to the port side of the lazarette gets clobbered. What’s not in the photo is the removable floor/shelves that run throughout the lockers making them far more useful for storage. The loop also interferes with the self steering control lines. What I need is a way to route it as shown below. It would require a tight 90° through hullhull but in bronze. I need to keep the hose close to the transom. I have scoured the internet without luck. The only ones I have found are plastic and that’s a non starter. I found one with a bronze 90° threaded hose barb but it marries to a special mushroom head only available in SS—made by groco. Also, I don’t think it comes in 2” ID.

It may be I need to exit vertically down through the stern counter but very close to the transom. Whatever I come up with I want to be able to remove the shelving and have complete physical access to the locker so I can clean it and perform maintenance in there. I also plan to install a bronze 2” in-line ball valve in the hose as it rises vertically along the transom before the tight 180° down to the flange. I can close it off when sailing offshore. I’ll have to hang the key on the ball valve though so i don’t forget it’s closed. Starting the engine with the ball valve close would not turn out well.

Applied Soundown insulation to the underside of the workbench that sits above the engine. Still need to install the mechanical fasteners.

[Jim Walsh]

My automatic bilge pump, my manual bilge pump, and my shower/icebox sump all exit through the counter. I wouldn’t hesitate to route my exhaust that way also. I’ve seen many boats which use this technique to keep the topsides pretty by not exiting through the transom. In fact it was more prevalent many years ago than it is now.

[JD-MDR]

I want some of that Vetis Slang exhaust hose. I have the original. It is so rigid. One good thing about the old is I can strap things to it. My worst complaint is it goes right over the filler cap for the engine oil so everytime I put new oil I have to get out a special funnel

[Jim Walsh]

I was just at Defenders to look at the 90° full flow bronze pipe to thread adapters. They stock them up to 1 1/2” but I was told they can obtain them up to 3”. It might be advisable to call Groco directly to see what they have to suit your requirements. They have both NPP and BSPP available in their full flow FFC series.
https://www.groco.net/products/fittings ... -full-flow

[John Stone]

I was just at Defenders to look at the 90° full flow bronze pipe to thread adapters. They stock them up to 1 1/2” but I was told they can obtain them up to 3”. It might be advisable to call Groco directly to see what they have to suit your requirements. They have both NPP and BSPP available in their full flow FFC series.
https://www.groco.net/products/fittings ... -full-flow

Thanks Jim. I found a solution...fiberglass 45° tube for exhaust systems. I purchased it today. I ordered the 2” ID Groco ball valve tail pieces etc. I wanted to use Marelon for weight but they have a bad rep for the handles snapping off so I passed. Plus, I couldn’t find them in 2” ID. Anyway, as soon as the part arrives I’ll install them.

On another topic, I have had some folks interested in the lazarette locker shelves I built during the rebuild. Turned out to be a very valuable modifications. Everything is quickly removable. Good ventilation. Much easier stowage. I made the same style mods for port and starboard lockers as well. Highly recommended.

[John Stone]

Lousy weather. Cold and rainy day after day. On the boat every day. Slow steady work. In and out of lockers. Developed a plan for installing a cut off ball valve near the tank but reachable in the port cockpit locker. Near the head of the windvane servo blade in its horizontal stowed position in the port locker. Also installed ball valve upstream of the Racor, in engine space. Drilled 3” hole in port transverse bulkhead between aft end of port locker and lazarette. Installed chafing guard. Also enlarged existing hole in same bulkhead just under deck for windvane control line. Installed chafing guard there as well. Applied thinned epoxy to the exposed grain of the plywood bulkhead where i cut the hole. Reconfigured starboard engine room access panel to accommodate Soundown insulation. This panel is inboard of starboard Q berth. I will install addition insulation there as well.

Next, I’ll complete installation of fuel lines and raw water hose. Probably run tank vent line. Waiting for 2” bronze ball valve to arrive in mail to complete engine exhaust hose install.

Can’t seem to find a good price on the Trojan T 105s. With the hydro link watering kit the coat is about the same as two Group 27 Lifeline AGMs. Decisions decisions....

[John Stone]

Installed and connected the fuel lines from the tank to the ball valve next to the Racor. Also installed the diesel return line from the injectors back to the tank. I need to zip tie 12v wire bundle.

[John Stone]

The behemoth 2” bronze Groco in-line ball valve arrived along with the through-hull hose barb combo. The through hull will served as the exhaust flange just under the stern counter. The big ball valve will be in the exhaust hose in the lazarette. It’s purpose is to keep water out of the exhaust hose when sailing offshore. If water gets forced up into the hose it can overload the muffler and back water into the engine.

Today, I installed the right angle hose barbs in the Racor filter and mounted it. With the work bench and drawer removed there is pretty good access to the engine. I’m pleased about that.

I drilled a 3.25” hole through the longitudinal bulkhead next to the waterlock muffler. I angled the hole-saw about 45° aft. But, even though I allowed for some slop the hole was not big enough due to the angle. So it wouldn’t accommodate the chafing guard. The hole needs to be oblong and I didn’t understand that until after I cut it. Easy to drill a bigger hole right...but I drove the Jeep today and not the truck (which is loaded with all my tools and extra “just in case stuff”) so I didn’t have my jig saw. Note to self: No matter how much you think you planned for all contingencies you are going to need the tool you didn’t bring.

The rain continues to flood eastern NC day after day. It’s cold too...37° and pouring down rain. Like we say in the Marines—If it ain’t raining we ain’t training....

[John Stone]

I cut a wider hole in the longitudinal bulkhead and temporarily installed a chafing guard. The exhaust hose fits well curves aft in mostly empty space beneath a floor/shelf system installed i the locker. I have a few more small epoxy projects related to the exhaust hose install which will include applying epoxy to the edge grain in the cut hole.

I also looked at location options for the exhaust flange. The most reasonable one is depicted in the photo below. I taped a G10 donut to the stern-counter, port side. It looks like it will work. I might be able to move it a little bit closer to the center line though i have to carefully work around the windvane quadrant and control lines and the shelving platform in the lazarette. I’ll do some measuring tomorrow. I want to cut the hole and get on with it but I also want to be certain I have picked the right location. Sometimes just sleeping on it for a few days helps me decide. I always have a couple projects going so I shift over to a different one till I decide. It keeps the momentum going but helps me avoid rushing and having a stupid attack.

[John Stone]

The sun came out today. Hooray!

I installed the rest of the fuel lines and the raw water hose. I refined the plan for the location of the exhaust flange. I’ll drill it tomorrow. Need to get it right.