Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[John Stone]

waterlock muffler install just needs fasteners and a small piece of trim added to be complete.

[John Stone]

The weather is ugly here. Raining, 40° F, and falling. Calling for snow tonight. Not much though.

I epoxied a small strip of walnut under the removable riser below the bottom step. This piece essentially fills the gap created by the saw blade when I cut out the center section. Now, the top of the riser is flush and level all the way across as part of the support for the bottom step.

I also screwed the small top section to the platform for the waterlock muffler.

Lastly, I installed the new Gore synthetic packing material in the packing nut on the prop shaft. If I can get to the boat tomorrow I will install the shaft flange and aligned the engine and prop shaft.

[Frenchy]

Wow- you're an inspiration for the rest of us, John. When you clamp the prop flange onto the shaft,
don't forget to evenly torque the clamping bolts, otherwise the flange won't be square to the shaft and it'll
screw up the engine alignment. That's important with a partially split flange, which I think you have.

Anyway, beautiful job. - Jean

[John Stone]

Long day in a cold boat. The boat is under cover. The oil electric radiator is keeping the cabin warm. But, with the cockpit locker open to work, and access behind the engine, the cold just settles in on top of you. The fiberglass hull is like a heat sink. Brrrrr.... Even with the front engine cover off there is not much heat behind the engine where I spent a fair amount of time sitting on the hull.

The task was to align the prop shaft, which I successfully accomplished. It took a while but after a couple hours I could not even get a .005” filled gauge between the flanges with the feet bolted down. The flanges are essentially married up flat. The approach is to align just the flanges together without the flex coupling using a feeler gauge and once accomplished then install the flex coupling.

Gaining access under the engine to the port side feet was challenging as I knew it would be. It was doable because I could remove the drip tray. I didn’t have the right tools on hand as I did a poor job of planning ahead for the task. But, I managed. There was a lot of crawling in and out of the locker and aft spaces to tighten bolts on the engine mount and feet then rechecking the flange with a feeler gauge. By the time I had the feet torqued down it was dark and I was cold. So, that was it for the day. When I get back to the FR on Saturday I’ll install the flex coupling and start in on exhaust hose and fuel lines.

I am pleased to have the cabinetry and shaft install behind me.

[John Stone]

Wow- you're an inspiration for the rest of us, John. When you clamp the prop flange onto the shaft,
don't forget to evenly torque the clamping bolts, otherwise the flange won't be square to the shaft and it'll
screw up the engine alignment. That's important with a partially split flange, which I think you have.

Anyway, beautiful job. - Jean

Thanks Fred. Copy all on even torque.

[Jim Walsh]

Looking good. Steady progress always wins. I didn’t notice lock nuts on your engine mounts. I presume they will be added after the flexible coupling is mounted?

[John Stone]

Looking good. Steady progress always wins. I didn’t notice lock nuts on your engine mounts. I presume they will be added after the flexible coupling is mounted?

Jim, after the photo above I installed split washers under the big standard nuts on the 14mm bolt studs. Much easier to adjust. Right now, that’s what I intend to use to secure the feet to the flange on the engine. I might add a second nut to make them double nuts. There may be additional adjustments required once the boat goes in the water, etc. So, I might install them after. in the mean time I will add the big nylocs to the spare parts bin.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks for sharing John I think I got those same mounts "Vetus flexible" I'm watching how you install so I can follow your example. I'm letting the yard guys do it. They have to lift the engine and drill and tap new holes in the stringers and I didn't do a good job with the alignment last time. The Ventura yacht boatyard has been sold to "Derektor". I'll post photos soon. They are working slowly because of the pandemic and today someone tested positive so everyone has to stop and go get tested.

[John Stone]

Installed the flex coupling without issue completing the installation a s alignment of the prop shaft. Reinstalled the walnut sole behind the engine.

To secure the removable riser below the bottom step I installed two bronze #10 wood screws in the walnut strip the riser sits on and which I epoxied in place the other day. Then, I hacksawed off the tops of the fasteners. Next, I positioned the riser in place and taped it with a mallet dimpling the bottom of the riser. Then I removed it and drilled 15/64” holes to accommodate the bronze pins. With the two custom latches I made and installed last week the center removable riser is held securely in place.

I used a similar technique to hold the feet of the shortened ladder in place. I installed the fasteners in the bottom of the legs, hacksawed and filed them smooth, drilled matching holes in the surface of the walnut workbench top. The ladder now snaps in place and can’t move.

With the prop shaft installed I went ahead and installed the zinc on the shaft. I polished the inside surface, used some 1200 grit wet/dry sand paper on the shaft, applied tefgel to the threads of the two fasteners and tortured it home.

Next, I temporarily installed the Flexofold two blade prop to see how everything lined up. It looks pretty good.

I performed a final test fit of the Racor fuel filter and raw water strainer on the starboard side of the engine.

Last, I crawled back under the cockpit and started to map out how the exhaust hose might be routed. I have a basic plan that will have minimal impact on space and access to the lockers and under cockpit storage areas.

[John Stone]

More pictures.

[Jim Walsh]

applied tefgel to the threads of the two fasteners and tortured it home.

Sometimes when spellcheck incorporates a substitution it chooses a word which is glaringly appropriate.

I like the use of the locating pins. Techniques like that are the difference between finely fitted and just plain old fitted.

[John Stone]

applied tefgel to the threads of the two fasteners and tortured it home.

Sometimes when spellcheck incorporates a substitution it chooses a word which is glaringly appropriate.

I like the use of the locating pins. Techniques like that are the difference between finely fitted and just plain old fitted.

That’s funny. I make most posts on my phone because that’s where the pictures are located. My eyes are not the eagle eyes they once were.... I don’t know if it’s just me but I swear it seems as if some of the words change after I hit send. LOL. If a sentence is badly mangled I usually go back and change it but sometimes I just leave it...so tortured it is.

“Locating” pins. I couldn’t think of what they are called but that’s exactly correct Jim. Thanks.

[JD-MDR]

Hi John, I'm curious about the flex coupling. Is that something I should consider? I might have to shorten my shaft. Probably not worth it. but when I go to repower, maybe.? What is the advantage? Thank again for all your help.

[John Stone]

Hi John, I'm curious about the flex coupling. Is that something I should consider? I might have to shorten my shaft. Probably not worth it. but when I go to repower, maybe.? What is the advantage? Thank again for all your help.

Hi John. I’m probably not the best person to ask. Yes, I have done a lot of homework. Yes, I have a smart mentor who mostly prevents me from doing stupid stuff. But, I have zero personal experience with a flex coupling. That said, the flex coupling was recommended to me by Beta Marine. It’s got some flexible hard nylon in it that is supposed to accommodate a small misalignment. I think they are well thought of. But of course there are many boats out there without them. When I was a kid, our family cruising boat did not have one. One of the disadvantages I think is the flex coupling does not allow a ground from engine to water via the prop shaft. That’s what I understand but perhaps others can chime in on that and the pros and cons. I have no AC current on my boat so no issue for me there either. My boat remains ungrounded or bonded for lightening protection as well. Might I change that at some point? Don’t know.

Anyway, the bottom line is the flex coupling is supposed to be advantageous and properly installed increase the life of the shaft bearing.

[JD-MDR]

Thanks for the quick response. I was thinking it might help soften the impact when shifting gears