Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[John Stone]

First coat of Interlux Bilge-Kote on new engine beds.

I order the engine compartment sound/heat insulation tomorrow.

[JD-MDR]

Looks nice John, I can't wait to do mine. When I was realigning my shaft coupling the other day I noticed one of the bolt threads in the stringer was stripped. I might be able to tap it to the next size but I don't think the mounts can take a larger size bolt. The steel is probably no good. Maybe I could just use some type of thread repair stuff. My motor mounts don't have adjusters for up and down only sideways. I loosened the mounts from the stringers and shimmed them up. I better stop. Last post I revealed a little too much info. getting personal. Next trip out I'm going north hopefully to Morro Bay Maybe further. Monterey, SF ?

[John Stone]

Looks nice John, I can't wait to do mine. When I was realigning my shaft coupling the other day I noticed one of the bolt threads in the stringer was stripped. I might be able to tap it to the next size but I don't think the mounts can take a larger size bolt. The steel is probably no good. Maybe I could just use some type of thread repair stuff. My motor mounts don't have adjusters for up and down only sideways. I loosened the mounts from the stringers and shimmed them up. I better stop. Last post I revealed a little too much info. getting personal. Next trip out I'm going north hopefully to Morro Bay Maybe further. Monterey, SF ?

JD
You are doing good work. I for one appreciate what you’re dealing with. A good reminder that we all have more than just sailing and boat work going on in our lives. Hold Fast.

For the forum,
The “Soundown” insulation arrived. I needed to offset the strainer and Racor filter 1” to allow the insulation to fit properly. Used 1” cypress that I had on hand. The fuel filter looks tilted in the photo—it is as I have not tightened the bolts. Just a positional fit. I need to build templates for the insulation. Maybe I can get started tomorrow.

I spent some time today gluing rubber pads to key points for the drip tray and spare anchors to reduce likelihood of rattling.

The installation is starting to come together.

[wikakaru]

Nice!

I know you don't have any of the fuel hoses installed yet, so maybe this question is premature, but have you considered putting a vacuum gauge in the fuel system? Mine fit on top of my Racor, and I don't see one on yours, so that's why I ask at this stage. With the location of your Racor it may be difficult to see a gauge, so you probably have plans to mount one somewhere that is more visible. If by some chance you haven't considered it, I highly recommend one.

Smooth sailing,

--Jim

[John Stone]

Ha! Funny you should ask. I actually put one on but took it off and returned it.

It was a tight fit especially once I add the petcock on the bottom of the bowl. Tim lackey and I corresponded about it. His feeling was as little as I will use the engine and as clean as my system is it would be of questionable value for my boat. He felt like routinely changing the filter instead of trying to extend its life was a simpler approach. I trust Tim as the ultimate in practical simplicity. So I returned it.

There was one on the 58’ ketch I delivered to Boston last May. That’s what gave me the idea to incorporate it. They make a side mount gauge too but I would have to set the filter further aft so probably not a great fit that way either.

I’ll see how it goes....

[John Stone]

First two templates built for Soundown engine box insulation and noise reduction. Built them same as always—doorskin ply ripped to 1.5” and a hot glue gun. I need to make the overhead template as well as extend the insulation aft on starboard side along quarter berth.

Once the Soundown is installed I should be clear to install the engine.

[ghockaday]

Are you sure you want to put that smelly old (new) diesel in there?

[John Stone]

Are you sure you want to put that smelly old (new) diesel in there?

OMG you’re killing me.

No. No I’m not.

[Jim Walsh]

You’re doing that engine room proud. (Diesel engines don’t smell, they exude confidence)

[JD-MDR]

You’re doing that engine room proud. (Diesel engines don’t smell, they exude confidence)

Yea.
My insulation is still in tack somewhat. I've been dreaming of updating it. I can't spend any more . Need to save for the trip March 2022. I do want to send in my worm gear steering and rebuild my starting motor. I think that's about all I have planned.
Oh. I will have to haul out before I go.

[wikakaru]

Ha! Funny you should ask. I actually put one on but took it off and returned it.

It was a tight fit especially once I add the petcock on the bottom of the bowl. Tim lackey and I corresponded about it. His feeling was as little as I will use the engine and as clean as my system is it would be of questionable value for my boat. He felt like routinely changing the filter instead of trying to extend its life was a simpler approach. I trust Tim as the ultimate in practical simplicity. So I returned it.

There was one on the 58’ ketch I delivered to Boston last May. That’s what gave me the idea to incorporate it. They make a side mount gauge too but I would have to set the filter further aft so probably not a great fit that way either.

I’ll see how it goes....

I would actually argue the other way from what Tim said: if you are rarely using an engine, a vacuum gauge is more important. A diesel engine that is heavily used polishes the fuel tank by itself as the overflow fuel gets dumped back into the tank; an engine that is rarely used doesn't pump enough fuel through the system to do any appreciable amount of fuel polishing. So you are more likely to collect algal growth or other crud in the bottom of the tank than someone with a heavily used engine. Bad fuel can clog a filter in a matter of hours, so even if you never use your engine and change your filter every month you could still wind up with a clogged filter that one time when you do need it. When that happens, taking a quick look at the gauge and seeing the maximum vacuum ever pulled tells you whether your fuel system is the problem or not. Saves hours of troubleshooting when you need to get that engine going quickly.

If you decide not to do the gauge, then good fuel hygiene--pre-filtering your fuel as you fill your tanks, treating it with a biocide, always keeping your tank full, and being careful of where you purchase fuel from--will be critical.

Smooth sailing,

--Jim

[ghockaday]

You’re doing that engine room proud. (Diesel engines don’t smell, they exude confidence)

I love a diesel, I have had VW diesels since sometime in the 80s. I still have a Golf TDI, sometimes I will sit and listen to her idle. It is a peaceful sound. Kind of like the African Queen.

I bet John could figure out a way for me to get a 100 HP VW Turbo Diesel in my CD30. It would probably have to be mid-engine, maybe put a saddle on it. It gets over 50mpg.

I also enjoy watching John's craftsmanship. Dennis

[Steve Laume]

I totally agree with Jim and posted some similar ideas on the Racor filter thread.

If location or the ability to read the gauge is an issue there is no reason it has to be mounted directly to the top of the filter. I have an elbow on mine. You could also add a length of hose and put it anywhere you want.

I have heard those horror stories about bad weather stirring up enough gunk, or even one glob of growth, in a fuel tank to clog the filter. Once you figure out what the problem is and replace the filter it could happen almost immediately, once again. Without the gauge you would assume the problem was not the filter as you had just changed it. With the gauge you would know, one way or the other.

This would be most likely to happen after you had taken your sails down and were motoring into a tricky inlet. Steve.

[John Stone]

As usual lots of good advice. Lots to think about. Appreciate everyone’s thoughts and opinions. I like Steve’s idea about a length of hose and elbow.

You guys are relentless in your efforts to drag me into the 20th century. You might even succeed....

Maybe.

[wikakaru]

If location or the ability to read the gauge is an issue there is no reason it has to be mounted directly to the top of the filter. I have an elbow on mine. You could also add a length of hose and put it anywhere you want.

+1 on that. Definitely remotely mount the vacuum gauge on your setup, John, based on where your Racor is. On the Racor I had with the gauge mounted on top, it replaced the hand-twist nut for opening the Racor with a nut that could only be turned with a wrench--a real pain. Having the gauge mounted elsewhere removes that impediment to opening the Racor.

I had a problem with the engine quitting on a previous boat. When I checked it after the engine died, the max vacuum arm on the dial always showed a much higher vacuum than the normal running vacuum. The filter was always clean or reasonably so. I couldn't figure it out for a long time. But because of the vacuum gauge I knew it was a fuel problem. Finally I drained the fuel tank and opened it up to see what was going on. The tank was beautifully clean--except for a few small pieces of aluminum slag that must have been left behind by whoever welded the tank together. It turned out that the slag only occasionally got caught in the fuel suction tube and blocked the fuel flow. When the engine stopped it fell back to the bottom of the tank and everything worked perfectly for a while, until the exactly wrong random boat motion caused the slag to get sucked up again. When I opened the tank and saw the slag it was a huge "aha" moment, and the vacuum gauge readings suddenly made sense.

I would never have another diesel engine without a vacuum gauge on the fuel intake.

Smooth sailing,

--Jim