Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[John Stone]

After a week of very little work I started milling the African mahogany today. With minimal additional work I’ll turn it into 3/8” thick by 2.25” wide strips that I’ll further shape with half-laps and V grooves. I’ll use it to face the front of the engine compartment so it will match the rest of the interior.

I was recently asked if I wanted to take on the job of restoring a 28’ sailboat. Though flattered to have my work thought well of, I declined. I suggested the owner tackle the project himself...he already has the boat on his property. He replied he did not want to spend $25,000 on tools. I explained it doesn’t take that much money to set up a capable shop.

Sure, you could spend that much, or more, if you were determined to do so. For example, there are plenty of people that will try to convince you that you must have a “Saw Stop” table saw because it’s the safest made. Instead, just learn to be safe don’t cut your hand off.... It’s no different than the offshore safety gear the ”experts” try to shame you into buying. I have nowhere near that much money invested in my shop, not even close...even if you include all the hand tools I have collected.

I have a medium quality Grizzly table saw, a middle to low end Grizzly joiner (a small one at that), and a medium to low end Delta Planer. I have a hand me down bench top drill press that I am gentle with, a cheap Penn Industries dust collector, a very inexpensive portable Bench Dog router table. I also have a Dewalt double compound non-sliding chop saw, a Bosch jig saw, and Bosch combo router. I have a circle saw, a belt sander, a couple palm sanders, a tough Porter Cable DA right angle sander, and a Makita high speed grinder. Almost forgot, I also have an inexpensive delta bentop grinder and a hand power planer. That’s about it for shop tools. Even my splicing vise was inexpensive. About $200. Sure, I wanted the gorgeous bronze and SS one sold by Brion Toss for about $850 but I didn’t need it. I have spent time learning how to sharpen and use a few hand planes—wish I had more of them. I also took time to set up the tools I have to be accurate. What I really wanted I never bought and that’s a good band saw. I just don’t have the room for one. I was able to get access to one when I needed it.

It doesn’t take that much. Those are the tools I used throughout the entire six year rebuild. They have held up well. There are people out there that have done gorgeous work with far less than what I have. You also don’t need a big shop—my shop is very small...bout 12’x20’. I’d love to have a big shop but then I’d have to keep working to pay for it and how could I go off sailing? Be smart. Keep it simple. Less is more and all that stuff. Oh yeah, it’s amazing how much time you have if you can avoid face book and instagram....

[John Stone]

Still moving forward. Clearly a battle of inches during the winter fighting season.

Lowered the walnut work bench top one inch, which will serve as the top of the engine box, to better align with the new ladder. The work bench will ultimately be extended forward another 12-14”. The plan is to keep the tool drawer under the bench-top but over the engine.

Today I filled some old fastener holes with mahogany wood plugs. I also built a template for the new electrical panel. The panel will also hold the gauges for the engine. Nothing in the cockpit but the throttle. The panel will be concealed behind sliding doors. The slot above the panel will be retained for stowage of the drop boards.

I pick up the diesel fuel tank tomorrow.

[Jim Walsh]

That’s where the breaker panel is located on the CD31 also. No nav. station so it’s the next best space, protected and out of the way. I also have a tool drawer there. It has a top loading hatch but if I remove the front access panel to the engine I can remove the “drawer” and it’s contents to improve access to the top of the engine. It’s small but perfect for all the stuff you need at hand instantly.
Nice work so far.

[JD-MDR]

[quote="John Stone"]e. Nothing in the cockpit but the throttle.

I agree. I got all my auto pilot components underneath and easily accessible. I think I figured out what might work for my control lines for the windvane. ( I still haven't got it perfected). From the photo I cut the heads off the bolts so its just a strait pin and I spliced an eye on each of the control lines. I will snug them up with a stopper knot at he quadrant . but not too tight so I can easily lift the control line eye from the pin. I got this far. Still need to get a couple of blocks and cam cleats to install below between turning points so that I can tighten up the control lines and cleat them. I can't afford to buy anything now. When I get that far I will post photos. Fingers crossed.

[Steve Laume]

"The panel will also hold the gauges for the engine. Nothing in the cockpit but the throttle"

If the throttle control is in the cockpit and the tachometer is down below, how will you ever set the throttle at the proper RPMs? I can see having some of the gauges down below, if you think you will be spending more time there than in the cockpit but having the tach down there makes no sense to me.

It's like having your car speedometer in the trunk, Steve.

[John Stone]

"The panel will also hold the gauges for the engine. Nothing in the cockpit but the throttle"

If the throttle control is in the cockpit and the tachometer is down below, how will you ever set the throttle at the proper RPMs? I can see having some of the gauges down below, if you think you will be spending more time there than in the cockpit but having the tach down there makes no sense to me.

It's like having your car speedometer in the trunk, Steve.

Well, I don’t use my speedometer on my car unless I am concerned about speeding. I don’t think I’d really miss the car speedometer except if I was thinking “speed trap.” I think most people, I can anyway, tell how fast they are going in their car without using the speedometer. I have run my outboard engine and dirt bike for years without a tack. Never had an issue.

Anyway, I should know when the diesel is idling. And I’ll engage the engine and throttle up to 1/4 ahead, 1/2, 3/4 etc. I don’t plan to throttle up or down based on RPM. But, I plan to check it by ducking my head through the companionway so I learn what say 2000 RPM sounds/feels like. I bet I’ll be able to tell what the rpm is pretty quickly. And if I need to be at exactly a certain rpm for a certain length of time I’ll duck my head down and adjust accordingly. Otherwise pretty close should be close enough.

Given my future sailing plans I’m more concerned about getting the cockpit pooped and immersing the gages in saltwater then being able to see the tachometer.

[Walter Hobbs]

Steve and John,

Unable to find a Yanmar tach for my YSB-8, I,m getting one from Tiny Tach it is rectangular thus will not fit in the cockpit panel. The YSB never had a tach in 43 years, so this may be overkill. But I am mounting it below on the main electrical panel. Primarily to see if the correct prop is installed and to figure out best cruising RPM. Thus I will be only checking RPM occasionally. As a bonus, it has an engine hour feature that I like.

To each his own.

[JD-MDR]

"The panel will also hold the gauges for the engine. Nothing in the cockpit but the throttle"

If the throttle control is in the cockpit and the tachometer is down below, how will you ever set the throttle at the proper RPMs? I can see having some of the gauges down below, if you think you will be spending more time there than in the cockpit but having the tach down there makes no sense to me.

Steve.

I put my tach inside and have no problem at all and I use my engine a lot. I can practically set it exactly at 2600 when I want to. I can always stick my head inside to get a look . I'm starting to use the engine less and less as I learn how to balance sails better. Last weekend I went across the channel both ways without the engine and the week before I made it up to Santa Barbara without the motor. It only took 7 hrs. I thought that was pretty good .

[John Stone]

"The panel will also hold the gauges for the engine. Nothing in the cockpit but the throttle"

If the throttle control is in the cockpit and the tachometer is down below, how will you ever set the throttle at the proper RPMs? I can see having some of the gauges down below, if you think you will be spending more time there than in the cockpit but having the tach down there makes no sense to me.

Steve.

I put my tach inside and have no problem at all and I use my engine a lot. I can practically set it exactly at 2600 when I want to. I can always stick my head inside to get a look . I'm starting to use the engine less and less as I learn how to balance sails better. Last weekend I went across the channel both ways without the engine and the week before I made it up to Santa Barbara without the motor. It only took 7 hrs. I thought that was pretty good .

John
Sounds like you have really improved your skills and at the same time refined and improved your boat. Well done.

[John Stone]

Picked up the fuel tank. Looks very nice. The vertical flange on the back (not visible in the photo) is not at 90° per per my drawing. I’ll need to make a low angle shim for it. Pretty easy fix.

It looks very well made. There is a vertical baffle with an inspection port on each side of it. I should have the tank installed in the next few days. Ended up as 19.75 gallons. So far, so good.

MTF.

[Jim Walsh]

Great looking tank. Nice feature having two clean-outs easily accessible, decent capacity also.

[John Stone]

Great looking tank. Nice feature having two clean-outs easily accessible, decent capacity also.

Thanks Jim. I don’t know much about diesel tanks but it sure looks well made to me. I’ll reserve my final assessment for when I have it bolted in the boat. I cut some shims for the brackets today. Looking forward to getting the tank in the boat.

The performance graph for the Beta 25 says 12 hp at 1,800 RPM. If that gives me the 5 kts I think it will on flat water then the engine should burn a little less than a liter an hour. That’s about 360 NM range if I ran the tank dry. So call it 325 NM. Even if it burned twice that I’d have a range of about 160 NM. I can live with that range. If there is wind enough to move the boat, I’m sailing.

I’m very interested to see how the two blade folding prop will perform with this whole set up. Will I get the flat water speed and range or something else.

[John Stone]

Test fit fuel tank today. Slipped past the framing obstruction with barely 1/8” on each side. Was glad I spent the time and effort to built an accurate mock-up from doorskin ply. Very pleased with the way it fits.

MTF....

[John Stone]

I installed the fuel tank a couple days ago. I cut a hole in the bridge deck for the fuel fill and back filled the core with epoxy. Looks good.

Today, I drove to Oriental NC to meet with Farron at Beta Marine. I paid for the Beta 25 HP with 2.6:1 reduction gear, 75 ah alternator and high rise exhaust elbow. They will store it there till I am ready to install it...probably next month. I did however bring the engine control panel home to further my work to build a new panel for the distribution and engine control panel.

Hard to say what’s going to happen with the Coronavirus outbreak. My sense is it is going to get much much worse before it gets better. I wanted to have the engine secured before production of engines and supporting components stops. It might take a long time to reestablish the supply chain.

I think that’s all I want to say about that. We will just have to see how it goes. Good luck to everyone.

[Jim Walsh]

I think the 25 hp unit is a good choice for Far Reach. An instrument panel with gages will be appreciated as you can observe trends in water temp, charging amps, and oil pressure which serve as an indication that something needs attention long before imminent failure.