Engine Installation on the Far Reach

[John Stone]

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r. I’m thinking about plumbing the drip catch from the stuffing box to my grey water tank. te]
That's a great idea. I don't have a tank. I'm constantly vacuuming water from the drip and also the ice box that goes into the bilge. I was trying come up with a way to drain them out with the galley sink.

Hi JD,
I have an 8 gallon grey water tank in the bilge. The head sink, the sitz tub, and the ice box all drain to it. Nothing goes into the bilge. I have only one bilge pump—an Edson model 117 all bronze gallon a stroke manual pump. I installed a selector valve in the pick up hose just before the bilge pump. In one position the valve allows the pump to evac the bilge and in the other position it pumps the grey water tank. I use it every day that way I know the manual pump is in perfect working order.

I thinks it’s a bad idea to let any grey water into the bilge but that’s exactly how the FR was originally configured. Even the shower sump drained into the bilge.

If you can rig a grey water tank and plumb it to to your icebox and shaft log, etc then the bilge will remain clean and the boat will probably smell better too.

[JD-MDR]

I had that pump on deck of a fishing boat. Where do you mount yours? I don't see it on your website.

[Jim Walsh]

Nice work. Will the drip tray be one unit or do you wish to keep them discrete from one another to help pinpoint a leak?

Thanks Jim. Probably separate...if only to keep the tray shorter. I’m thinking about plumbing the drip catch from the stuffing box to my grey water tank. Also, I could put a small ball valve on that line and drain it into a bucket to keep track of how much water was dripping. Not sure if that is valuable or not. Got any thoughts on it?

Good idea to lead the drip to the grey water tank. Mine just runs to the pan (as does my rudder stuffing box) under the engine then to the bilge unless I put a stopper in the hole in the engine pan. The idea of using a valve to allow you to see the rate your stuffing box is dripping is not a bad idea. Especially during the break-in period until you tighten the nut to the point where you are happy with the flow rate. It’s always nice to have objective evidence of the health of your vessel when you are several miles from the bottom....subjective evidence is worthless.

[Steve Laume]

My shower is in the cockpit and I always have ice in either milk jugs or a dry bag before it goes in the ice box. The idea of catching the engine pan water in a separate container is somewhat appealing. One gallon with an overflow would seem like plenty of capacity in my situation.

For some time, I only had a manual bilge pump, that was operated from the cockpit. When it needed service I upgraded to a gusher 10 at 31 GPM. I figured more was better and parts are easier to find for that pump than the original gusher 8. Then I started to think about what I would do if I had a serious leak. The biggest manual bilge pump in the world would get rid of the water, only if you were there to pump it. Sailing solo almost all of the time made me think that maybe the manual pump was not the complete answer. I installed a Johnson 2200 which, in theory could move 36 GPM. In actuality it might not move as much as the Gusher but it will do it when I am trying to find out where the water is coming from. It would also work when I am pumping manually which would give me a combined 60 GPM. The electric pump is wired straight to a breaker so it only works when I switch it on. This way I can monitor the amount of water that might be entering the bilge.

I am never concerned about a little water in the bilge. Catching any nasty water from the engine pan before it gets there, does seem like a good idea, Steve.

[John Stone]

I had that pump on deck of a fishing boat. Where do you mount yours? I don't see it on your website.

JD
It’s mounted next to the watch seat. It’s a beast of a pump. I found it at a consignment shop. Never been used.

For some time, I only had a manual bilge pump, that was operated from the cockpit. Then I started to think about what I would do if I had a serious leak.

The biggest manual bilge pump in the world would get rid of the water, only if you were there to pump it. Sailing solo almost all of the time made me think that maybe the manual pump was not the complete answer.

I am never concerned about a little water in the bilge. Catching any nasty water from the engine pan before it gets there, does seem like a good idea, Steve.

Concur Steve. Very valid point. Thought about that many times. During the rebuild I did not expect to singlehand as much as I have. Did not think I would enjoy it as much as I do either. Also, when I launched the boat I had no electrical system, not even a 12v. And even now I have only one 100ah battery with a 30 watt solar panel so I didn’t want a drained battery from a defective electric bilge pump that would not shut off. Plus it would never keep the boat from sinking anyway. The battery would go dead first.

Now that I am installing an inboard I have again thought about it. But, at this point I just don’t want any more complications on the boat. Another breaker, more wiring, more hose, another hole in the boat. It’s just too much complication. Maybe at some point. But not now. Not yet. I already somewhat regret installing the engine. Will reserve my opinion though until after I have used it.

[John Stone]

I sanded the few spots I added fairing compound to yesterday. So, that completes Phase I, install shaft long and engine beds. I placed the engine template on the beds and repositioned the alignment string. Looked dead-on to me. I’m pleased.

It’s on to building a template for the fuel tank.

[John Stone]

Gayle went to the boat with me today. We removed the plastic drop cloths and brown paper I put down to protect the floor. We vacuumed the boat to remove the sanding residue that escaped the vacuum I try to always have connected to the power sanders. Then we wiped the interior of the boat down. I reinstalled some of the black walnut flooring that fits aft of the engine. I think it will fit there even with the engine installed. If, so that will add a lot or storage space I previously had before we decided to install an inboard engine. I’ll need to make a lift out access above the stuffing box so I can easily inspect it or tighten it quickly offshore if need be.

We removed all the epoxy materials (resin, harness, fillers, plastic bowls, squeegees etc) and some specialty tools I won’t need for the next phase. Last, we removed the black walnut sole and took the planks outside and laid them on a tarp. We used the sole as a template to cut some heavy duty protective temporary protective floor covering for the cabin sole which I hope will last through the engine installation as well as a few other projects I have planned. The floor covering is a kind of thick paper that comes on a long roll about 36” wide. It’s heavy and tear resistant. Almost like poster-board but perhaps even thicker. I purchased it at Lowe’s Hardware. I have plenty left over to replace any that tears or gets badly soiled. It’s was great to get the boat back into a semblance of cleanliness and order.

I want to also mention what a great advantage it is to be able to remove the entire sole in a couple minutes. It gives me complete access to the bilge—from one end of the boat to the other. There is no space I cannot access in the Far Reach. In fact, I can have all three main water tanks out of the boat in about 45 minutes. Even the entire sink cabinet can be removed in about five minutes. A removable sole is a modification I would recommend anyone make to their boat. The challenge is many modern boats have the cabinetry installed over the top of the sole and the cabinetry is not easily removed.

With the boat cleaned up I’ll soon focus on building the template for the fuel tank.

Happy New Year everyone!

[gonesail]

Something to consider but my CD30 MKII has a nice pan under the engine .. totally separate from the bilge. I dropped the oil filter and a quart of oil in there .. not a drop of the black stuff went into the bilge. I imagine it would hold all the oil from the engine if needed

[John Stone]

Something to consider but my CD30 MKII has a nice pan under the engine .. totally separate from the bilge. I dropped the oil filter and a quart of oil in there .. not a drop of the black stuff went into the bilge. I imagine it would hold all the oil from the engine if needed

I agree. A great idea and part of our plan.

[John Stone]

Built the mock-up fuel tank out of door skin ply, scrap cleat stick, and a pneumatic staple gun. Will test fit it tomorrow. Calculations reflect 20 gallons.

[Jim Walsh]

I like the 20 gallon figure. I wouldn’t go less by choice, a few extra will always be appreciated, as Steve has already noted.
My tank is exactly 20 gallons. That gives me 40 hours of run time (plus a little safety factor) at 1800 to 2000 RPM. That will move me at 5 to 6 knots according to the sea state.....flat calm to a gentle swell.

[John Stone]

I removed the shelf above the space where I plan to install the fuel tank. I also removed the cleats that support the stove/oven. One of the advantages of building your boat is you know how to take everything apart.

The tank fit. But it was tight. Looks like it might make contact with the back of the oven frame. So I brought the template home and will make it a little thinner. Will lose about one gallon of capacity. Down to 19 gallons.

MTF.

[Jim Walsh]

I had to go to your homepage to see the galley stove in place. You had noted that there was space behind the stove which might hold a water tank in the future. Now I understand how the fuel tank installation was merely a change in use of a space which was waiting for a dedicated purpose. Efficient use of space, and weight distribution, is so important on a cruiser.

[John Stone]

I had to go to your homepage to see the galley stove in place. You had noted that there was space behind the stove which might hold a water tank in the future. Now I understand how the fuel tank installation was merely a change in use of a space which was waiting for a dedicated purpose. Efficient use of space, and weight distribution, is so important on a cruiser.

Jim, I had forgot about that. You’re right. Fortunately I have never even gotten close to using all the water we carry now. About 95 gallons in four tanks. So far, so good.

[moctrams]

Have you thought about all the water and grunge that will collect in your angled fuel tank?