New Typhoon Owner! And, Project List!

[Steve Laume]

By the time you decide to reef your main, the wind is going to be blowing pretty hard. Do you really want the boom, with attached main to come flopping into the cockpit and then struggle to lift it back up with the reefing line? If you fall off the wind a bit the boom is going to want to go over the side or at least into your nice teak combing boards. It is much easier to be able to raise the boom a bit and take all the strain on the topping lift while you put in the reef. I know there is not a huge amount of sail to deal with but things can get ugly when the sail is shaking the boom around like a terrier dog with a rodent in it's mouth, Steve.

[Ben Miller]

I agree with Steve that the Typhoon is pretty minimal in its setup. That might work for some, but not for everyone. I've added a topping lift and reefing hardware, and here's what I did, for what it's worth:

IMG_2625.jpg

The topping lift needs a little extra explanation. The line you see heading upward goes all the way to the masthead. There's an eye spliced in the upper end which goes over the same clevis pin as the backstay.

The reefing setup at the tack is pretty basic. I just run a length of 1/4" line from the cleat on the port side of the mast through the reefing cringle and down to the cleat on the starboard side of the mast. A reefing hook sounds like it would be easier, so if you get that figured out, post about it!

The philosophy I was going for with all this was "as simple as possible, but no simpler." It's worked out all right, so far.

[Steve Laume]

On my Typhoon, I made the fixed point at the end of the boom, ran up to a block at the mast head and down the mast to a cleat. A little less line involved in the way Ben did it. It works either way, Steve.

[s2sailorlis]

This approach for a topping lift is really simple. Just got it for my CD22, works great.

Inexpensive, the Viafana hardware is very high quality.

https://sailcare.com/site/topping-lift-kits/

[Dick Villamil]

Definitely install a topping lift. I put a small block at top of mast them attach to the roller furling tang at aft end of boom. The other end goes to a clam cleat about2 feet from bottom of mast with a standard clear above. I slack the topping lift once the main is up and when ready to end the day I take up on the topping lift, drop the main and a wrap one or 2 sail ties to hold the main to the boom, take I the main. Sheet Nd the saints the dock or mooring under the roller furled Benny. Works like a dream and wouldn't do it any other way! The topping lift supports the boom while at the doctor mooring and it keeps the. Boo horizontal and there is none dot use the pigtail to the back stay to attach to the boom. I run the roller furling line from a small block attached the the tang on the bow fitting and then directly back to the cleat on cabin top port side. I also run the main halyard to the cleat on cabin top starboard side. This configuration has worked flawlessly for 10 years. I love my typhoon and she Israel to sail singlehandedly - very stable and coasts to the dock with little Toño sail exposed. I just bought a new gene from Vermont sailing partners and it is an amazing sail - best one I have ever had. I use the ff1 roller furler and it is great. A new mainsail is now in the forecast for next year. Meanwhile I have. A nice but. Used roller furling Genoa available!

[Steven_Shore]

Congrats on your Ty, Steve! A few years back I purchased Ty #1273, so we're not far off. When I bought her, she was a total wreck. She had broken off her mooring in a gale and became lodged between a seawall and a dock. The bow pulpit was torn off the deck, leaving 16 holes, she had three holes below the waterline, a bashed in starboard stern quarter and 90% of the rails were destroyed.

As far as the deck is concerned, we re-glassed from below, used peanut butter consistency epoxy filler and repainted the deck from the chainplates forward. When we were done, that looked great.

Regarding the rails, they look good on your boat and I wouldn't mess with them, given some of your other tasks. I'd rather be out on the water. But having said that, this is what I learned having replaced all the rails. I will assume that mine were original. They we're attached with 1 1/4" stainless wood screws. They might have been 1 1/2", I forget, but the rails are 3/4" so I'm thinking 1 1/4". They were bedded on marine calking and when I replaced my rails, I did the same. 5200 would be fine but personally, I hate working with that stuff. (I did rebed the shrouds chain plates and when I did I used the 5200)

This is an aesthetic suggestion but as a practical matter it will allow you more time of the water as well, and personally, I think it looks better: Consider varnishing all the 'interior' wood - coamings and cockpit trim - and then oil the toe/rub rails. It really looks handsome. I use Penofin.

[PortTack]

Steve, do you find the oiled toe rails and varnished interior woods match color? What’s the benefit of oiling instead?

[Dick Villamil]

port tack - as for refinishing teak I use Cetol Light - after a light sanding wipe with acetone then put on the first coat of cetol. Wait until it dries - about a day then add a second coat. Add a 3rd coat a day later. Add a fresh coat the following year with a very light wiping with an abrasive sponge or equivalent. This treatment should hold for about 10 years. Removing the cetol is easy with a heat gun and scraper then start all over again. As for the cracking on cabin top - remove the jib track and probe the holes where the through bolts pass - they may have water in the core - that is a good indication that you need to do some work on it before the sogginess spreads. Wait until the end of the sailing season to do this - you may need to place a clear plastic tent over the area to allow the sun to evaporate water from the core. I have a similar set of cracks in a cockpit seat and it is my next project - this fall after I haul Victoria. It sure looks like water in the core to me after studying your photo. Leave the toerails along unless you see stains inside the cabin - they are held in by stainless wood screws attached to the fiberglass deck.

[Markst95]

I liked a topping lift on my Ty, beats having the cockpit filled with sail especiallly if you have other people aboard. One thing I did that I'm suprised I haven't seen many owners do is add hinges to the cockpit hatches. Having them loose always seemed unsafe to me. I also stiffened them up.

[Dick Villamil]

Markst95 - I like the hinge idea - did you pop rivet the hinges or are they short bolts? Stiffening the covers is also a good idea. I need to do this as well as make an opening for the battery cable for the electric motor. I made a connection box that reaches under the seat then I take the electric motor cable through the seat hatch - may have to cut a slot so the cable isn't pinched when the cockpit seat hatch is closed when the motor is in place. Looks like another project for fall!

[radsailor]

I added hinges to the cockpit lockers with nuts and bolts. In your photo it looks like you glassed in reinforcing stringers. I just used hatch length wooden beams that I screwed into from topside of the hatch.


Re topping lift: I use a "boom kicker" Easy to install and keeps boom up whether sail is up or down. https://www.boomkicker.com

Also installed a vang without drilling into mast or boom. Used very small diameter dyneema passed through clear plastic hose- wrapped around base of mast beneath the main and jib exiting halyards and around boom with a sail stop in the boom groove to prevent it from moving forward.
After 7 months, so far so good.

[radsailor]

Re reefing line. Agree with the leech end of sail -line tied around aft end of boom goes to reef cringe to block on boom to cleat. The tack cringle is adjusted using a Cunningham type hook with line going through a block at mast base(attached to vang strop and then to main halyard desktop cleat. With a small diameter line, can cleat both this line and main halyard. When not reefed, use the same setup with hook going through cunningham cringle .

[Dick Kobayashi]

Welcome and congrats. I second Steve's view on topping lift. When you want to reef underway you want to be able to do it with out fuss, smoothly and quickly. For this you will need a topping lift. It is not much of a mechanism. Consider dropping the boom to the cockpit and wrestling with the leach reefing grommet and line and cleat in 12-15 knots with your wife and child aboard, and you will be convinced to accept Steve's wisdom.

Not too sound too sharp on this, but this small and cheap modification will payoff big time if you use it once.