New Typhoon Owner! And, Project List!

[PortTack]

Today I went to pick up and sail my new (old) Cape Dory Typhoon to its new home, and couldn't be happier!

My wife and I inherited my dad's old O'day Daysailer several years back that I grew up sailing on, and we had a great couple years with it, but recently had a baby and were looking for a similar, daysailer-type boat that would be a little sturdier and safer for our little one to grow up sailing on, especially where we sail now. I've always loved the timeless lines, teak, and feel of the Typhoons, and we finally snagged one this year!

The boat is hull #1184 from 1974, and all in all the boat is in very good shape. There are a lot of little (and a few big) tweaks and repairs that I'll want to do over the next season or two, and I'm looking forward to sharing my progress here and on the Project board. I've learned a ton from lurking around the board, and am so appreciative of the amount of time and thought everyone puts into their responses! The CD association and this board is such a hidden gem of sailing and maintenance knowledge.

As far as I see it, I have 4 main project areas with the boat:
1) modernizing and adding hardware where needed
2) repairing bad sealants, old fixture holes, heavy crazing spot
3) reinforcing old backing plates/nonexisting backing plates
4) dealing with the teak work


For (1) Hardware:
- There's no fairlead for the furling line, and the previous owner just ran it over the cabin top and cleated it to the starboard cleat on top of the cabin, I'd like to run a few fairleads along the top deck and install a cam cleat on the side of one of the coamings so keep it a little more organized and out of the way.
- The mainsheet setup is probably original and is a little tired, I'd like to modernize it though I don't think I'd go full traveler. The other typhoon I've sailed on had a fiddlehead block, but I find it really disorienting to have to pull *down* on the main sheet to release it. Not sure what the best other options would be... If it was a single block system, it would also involve removing/patching/painting over the old block points.
- There are no cleats/cams/blocks or anything else attached to the boom for reefing the main, and being able to easily reef is very important to me. Also, I'd like to install a reefing hook and some earrings through the luff reefing grommet. Question - for the clew reefing line, can I just install one block at the end of the boom that would act as both downhaul and outhaul, or do I need one line pulling down, and one line pulling aft? Also, not totally sure how to sew the reefing earrings securely...

For (2) sealants and fixtures:
- The previous owner removed the bow pulpit, but rather than patching and painting the holes, looks like he just put the screws back in. I hope he bedded them! Though the deck feels very firm... I'd like to remove the screws, epoxy the holes, and paint over them. My concern is whether or not just painting that area will look terrible, or if it will force me to repaint the whole top deck
- There's one spot near the starboard cleat and top deck jib lead that is pretty badly crazed. I'd like to clean it up, but I don't know the best course of action. Is it deep enough that I'll need to Dremel it all up, epoxy, and paint? For something like this, am I actually gel coating, not painting?
- The teak toe rails look like they were sealed with silicone, and it’s peeling up all over the place. How would you recommend resealing along the toe and rub rails? Do I need to remove the rails to properly reseal them, or is there a better sealant I can use along the seams like silicone, but not silicone?
- In the second picture (with the back top deck cracking), you can also see a void between the cabin and the coaming. Is this OK, or should all the points where the coamings meet the fiberglass should there be some sort of sealant? If so, which?

For the (3) backing plates:
- The starboard shroud failed a couple years back and the boat was demasted. The mast has been repaired, and the previous owner put a nice sized stainless steel backing plate on the starboard side, but it doesn’t seem like any other backing plate has been inspected or updated, maybe ever. For peace of mind, I’d like to cut a larger inspection hole on the port side, and add a new G10 backing plate for the port shroud. And I figure, while in backing plate mode, I might as well put new ones in for the fore and aft stays as well, and behind whatever new mainsheet block I decide on. Speaking of enlarging inspection ports, I’d like to replace the little 4 inch on behind the tiller with a 6” port, so I can actually get in there and put the new backing plates in. The piece of wood behind the engine bracket mount could use replacing, too.

For the (4) teak:
- The coamings and the cabin teak rails are varnished but tired, and the toe rails are all bare. I’d like them to match, and actually enjoy varnishing, so I figure I’ll take everything off that I can in the fall, and varnish in my basement over the winter. I don’t want to deal with the headache of taking the toe rails off, so I’ll tape them off and varnish them in the spring. Question - for re-attaching all the coamings and other teak rails, how do you recommend bedding those? Butyl tape, something else? Do they not need it? Also, a couple dozen teak bungs on the toe rails are either deteriorating or totally gone, if I replace them and hammer in new ones and varnish over them, does that count as sealing, or do I need to do extra?
- Related to the sealant issue, I imagine replacing and resealing where the old silicone is will be connected to my varnish job.


That’s “all” for now! Excited to dig in to these projects. Thanks for your feedback!

[Ben Miller]

Congrats on the new boat! And I'm looking forward to seeing your progress. I've done a few things to my Ty over the years and it's been a rewarding experience. My best piece of advice for you is to do the projects that seem necessary to you right now, and spend the rest of the time sailing!

You don't need sealing alongside your toe rails, you need sealant UNDER them. If there's no sealant in there, then you should probably lift up the rails and seal them down again.

As for reefing: Yes, you can install one block on your boom to handle the clew. I did that last summer and it's worked out fine. I'm happy to answer questions about my setup if you have any.

[PortTack]

Thanks, Ben!

Do you have an opinion in the debate of rivets vs screws for attaching hardware to the boom?

As for lifting the toerails and sealing beneath them, is each bunged-up hole a screw that's through-bolted? And are the rub rails also through-bolted? I haven't explored every nook and cranny yet on the boat, so how everything is attached is still a mystery to me. Thunderstorms forecast for the next two days, so I doubt I'll get back out until Friday.

[Ben Miller]

I used machine screws into tapped holes in the boom, but I don't really remember why! I do like the idea of being able to remove the hardware with a screwdriver if I needed to.

On my boat, there was a screw underneath the bung, not a bolt. The genoa track, however, is through-bolted.

Your toe-rails look like they're in decent condition. If it were me, I wouldn't mess with them unless they were leaking. However, the fact that someone ran a bead of caulk along them might indicate that they were, and will again once that caulk fails. Water settles at the low point of the side deck, seeps under the toe rail, and then creeps down the screws. It's unlikely to do any real damage (there's no core there) but who likes a leaky boat?

If you've got rain coming, this might be a good chance to check the integrity of that seal. Go out to the boat after the rain stops and feel the hull along the quarter berths, where there's no hull liner. If it's wet, then you've got a little leak.

[Dick Villamil]

Congrats on the Typhoon - she sails like a much larger boat! I have a Ty of similar age that I have restored and the most important thing you can do is to rebed all hardware. When I did mine I found that the old caulking was hard and not working and was only partially filled under the hardware from the factory. The cabin top cracking around the cleat and jib track is an indication of water damage to the core. As for the toe rail (I removed mine and caulked underneath however the quick=est way is to remove the bungs and back off the screws then caulk under them and tighten - installing new bungs with a little varnish around the bung to prevent any leakage. As for mainsheet control I removed mu=ine and replaced with a "U" bolt that I attached a double becket block with cam cleat - works great. Before doing any major refitting, get the leaks and bedding done first. ALso, make a mast/cabin support - locate the plans for this on this web site. This will prevent any cabin sag and cracking around the cabin/deck junction. Do not use silicone caulk - check out all those available making sure you can undo the fitting in the future if needed - ie do not use 5200 unless you do not want to remove the fitting.

[PortTack]

Thanks for the input, Dick! Dealing with any insufficient caulking is high on my priority list; the decks seems firm everywhere so far, and I'd like to keep it that way.

Two questions:
The deck still feels very firm all around the cracking near the jib track on top of the deck, so my hope is that while it looks more open than your typical gelcoat crazing, that there isn't serious water damage to the core. Do you think sanding and fairing it all down, filling with some epoxy and painting would work to clean it up?

My biggest question about dealing with the toerail, and I haven't found any crystal clear answers, is what I'm dealing with in terms of how they're attached to the boat. Are they through-bolted with a nut somewhere underneath that I would need a second person to hold for me while I unscrew everything, or are they just screwed in, and I could back them out a little, pry up the toe-rail, and reseal beneath? Since doing that would mean destroying the bungs that are still in place, fitting new ones and varnishing everything to reseal afterwards makes since, seeing as I'd like to varnish up the toerails regardless.

I've found lots of helpful info about installing a compression post digging through the forums, I'm leaning towards some version of the removable post with wood block supports above and below. Also on the to-do list...

Thanks for your help!

[Ben Miller]

My biggest question about dealing with the toerail, and I haven't found any crystal clear answers, is what I'm dealing with in terms of how they're attached to the boat.

Yours might be different (who knows what a previous owner might have changed) but mine is screwed down. No nuts on the bottom. Except for the genoa track which, as I mentioned, is bolted down. Fortunately that runs along the quarter berths, which can be accessed through the hatches in the cockpit seats. Unless you have stubby arms one person can reach in and get to both ends of the bolt.

I'll echo Dick on the need to re-bed your hardware. Have you seen Maine Sail's articles on this? Sealing Deck Penetrations and Rebedding Deck Hardware. Good stuff. Get his butyl tape: It's so much easier to work with than goopy caulk. One roll will easily do this Ty, plus your next one, and probably the one after that too.

[Brimag]

Congratulations, Great boats. Having done many of the tasks you are starting my advice is make a prioritized list and don't try to do too much right away. I also kept a time sheet and materials list. It adds up fast, but make sure you get out sailing..P.S. much of my woodwork was bedded with 5200, never attempted to remove toerails as I saw more 5200 Good luck it's worth the time and effort!

[PortTack]

Brimag, thanks for the advice! I can easily see things spinning out of control and eating up half a sailing season, it's true... I think my first priorities will be the backing plates, fixing the top deck on the starboard side, setting up a reefing system for the boom, and installing the fairleads for the furler. If I Dremel out the deep grooves and epoxy it this fall or spring, I may just leave it ugly for a season, and then the following year do the toerails and repaint. I feel like the toe rails should be last, since spending all that time and energy to varnish and re-bed the rails onto a deck that will need a paint job doesn't make sense.

[drysuit2]

I have things on my "to do list" that are 20 years overdue.
The number one thing on everyone's "to do list" in my opinion is GO SAILING!
It's a boat. Use it. A lot. As often as possible.

Don't get me wrong. I enjoy maintaining my CD. I take great pride in it. Some of my most memorable days on the water have been sitting on the mooring and polishing something, doing brightwork, adding or fixing hardware. And maybe for some people, the maintenance IS the fun part. But I see, and hear far too many sailboat owners that spend far too much time working on their boats instead of using their boats.

The chores will always be there. None of the problems you mentioned seamed like they needed immediate attention. Go sailing. The solutions to your questions will become apparent. Find your balance.

And whatever I say...do what you want. It's your boat. Congratulations.

[Brimag]

You seem right on track. One final thing from me is your reef system, very much needed on breeze days. I rigged up simple slab reef to cockpit. Minor modifications and staying in cockpit is a good idea. Looking forward to seeing your progress!!

[PortTack]

Frank, thanks for the good advice! My hope is to knock off a couple projects this fall, so I won't lose any good sailing days come next season. Small bites!

Brimag - I'm hoping to rig a very similar reefing system, though rather than have the line also be responsible for cinching down the tack of the main and running the line to the cabin top, I was planning to install reefing hooks + earrings through the grommet, and have the line terminate a foot or so from the gooseneck. The aft section of the system running forward would be identical to what you posted. That way I can both drop the main, hook the earring around, and tighten the clew up all while standing in the entry to the cabin. Should work, right?

[Steve Laume]

The original arrangement for reefing the Typhoon, was to roll the sail around the boom. This seems difficult and does not produce a decent sail shape. The reason I mention this is that there was no need to support the boom while reefing. With slab reefing, you will need a topping lift along with whatever reefing lines you decide to go with. The pendent on the back stay will not work for reefing. You could still use tit to secure the boom at your mooring.

It is pretty simple to add a block at the masthead and a cleat, where you can easily reach it, lower on the mast. If you want to be able to adjust it from the cockpit the you would probably need a turning block at the base of the mast and a cleat on the cabin top.

It always seemed like the Ty was a little short on rigging and cleats. Keeping things simple is only good to a point,Steve.

[Brimag]

Everyone rigs their boat differently.You boat your individual set up. Have fun!

[PortTack]

Steve, I wasn't planning to install a topping lift. I figured that I could just drop the boom into the cockpit while I stand in the cabin entryway to do the rest. I used to do this with my Daysailer, which seemed to work since the main was so small. I understand on a larger 25'+ you would absolutely need a topping lift. Am I crazy? Or is there some other reason that wouldn't work for me?