Access hatch in the cockpit sole, CD 33, looking for advice

[Vincent]

I just read part of Jim Walsh's pedestal replacement saga. At 6 ft 5 in I have been wondering how to get under there. The first step has been to look for an access hatch big enough. No such luck from various hatch manufacturers. They are either very expensive and not big enough, or just not big enough. I don't wat to pull my engine. So I have been thinking ooof making a hatch. When I ran this by my yard guy, he was concerned about the structure of the cockpit sole, specifically the right angle at the verticle edge of the lazarette and the several inches of the sole. I was planning a 20" x 20 ", (or so), hatch. Just aft of my cockpit drains and tank cleanout, and just forward of the steel crossbeam that itself is just forward of the pedestal.

Why do all this? I would like access to the after part of the engine, to the pedestal, and to the thru hull fittings in the area. I also need access to the staern to mount a self steering vane, Cape Horn.

My plan was to cut the hole, frame it with something strong, oak? Paint all the wood with west system epoxy, and glue and screw this frame to the underside of the decking. Then run some vertical framing, glued and screwed to the first set, to act as the frame for the hatch, which would fit over this vertical frame. The top of the vertical would have the rubber tubing to seal the hatch.
My yard guy is worried that the deck would break at the 90 degree turn between the sole and the lazarette. to solve this, I might run vertical supports from the hatch perimeter on the port and starboard sids down to a spread plate on the hull, also glassed in.

Does this description make sense? Clear as mud to me, but maybe I need to draw it and try to show it that way. Problem is, I am no artist. Anyone else attempted this? Anyone have any suggestions.

[Frenchy]

I thought about an access hatch too, but decided against it. Here's why: 1. I don't think it'll help much, because if
you lower yourself into the hatch in a sitting position, your head will still be too far above the cockpit sole. You'd
have to lower your chest and get into a fetal position which would negate the advantage of a hatch. 2. It would be
difficult to totally waterproof a home-made hatch and commercial ones are big enough. 3. Resale value would
suffer. 4. Possible structural integrity worries.
I instead decided to cut away some of the fiberglass frame around the port locker access hole. I cut away
some of the bottom, leaving only a 1" lip and then enlarged the hole several inches toward the stern. The hole
in the end was big enough to replace my fuel tank through the port locker. I also cut off the "lip" on the battery
shelf to give a bit more room to get in. It's still not fun to get in there, but doable. My biggest struggle is to
keep from sliding down head first into the engine. Boat cushions help (a little).
Ideally you could hire a four foot tall guy with 6 ft. arms- tough to find. Good luck and
I'd love to know what your final decision is. - Jean

[Jeff and Sarah]

I wonder if paying someone to do your pedestal work would be cheaper and easier than the hassle of installing a hatch. I agree with you that the idea of a hatch sounds enticing, but I agree more with Frenchy that it likely won't be practical (at least not as practical as intended). I spoke to someone who had a cockpit hatch at one point a while back (not a CD- I don't recall the make of the boat but the hatch was original to the boat) and the owner lamented the difficulty of climbing in and out of it.

[David L]

After many years of twisting my 6'2" body through my CD36 port lazarette to get behind the engine, I installed an access port in the cockpit floor. I wish I had done it years ago. It has made possible what was previously impossible. I used a Bomar cast aluminum access hatch. They make two types, both with fully-removable hatches. One tucks in on one side and has twist locks on the other. The other has a tee-handle and four positive-locking dog latches, which I preferred. The cockpit floor is 1" thick and I have seen absolutely no flexing. The hatch was not cheap, but I did the installation myself, saving money and getting it done right.



or image https://goo.gl/photos/ycaXkz1oK23uVqzJA

[MFC]

Just as a point of reference, I believe Pacific Seacraft 31's or 34's come with cockpit sole hatches. It always seemed like it could be useful although you can never really tell until you live with / without something.

Matt

[Paul D.]

That's what I'm talking about. Perhaps with some careful glass work you could sit it flush with the current cockpit sole. At about 28" x 22" that should make you fit down. OK so it's a whole year's worth of your boat upgrade fund...ah well.

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/product ... 6061.html

[tjr818]

After many years of twisting my 6'2" body through my CD36 port lazarette to get behind the engine, . . . .

For several years I did the same thing on our 27. Claustrophobia finally got the best of me. In searching for a better way I found that I could go in through the front of the engine compartment and lay on top of the engine, a bottomsider type of cushion protected me and the engine. I can now reach all the way back to the stuffing box in comfort. I don't know if this is possible on the 36, but I thought I should mention it.