bronze rub-strake over rubrail?

[John Stone]

You are right Steve, Gorilla glue is messy. I have seen strength test for it and it did not perform all that well. I used it twice and gave up on it. That expansion thing is just too weird for me. I agree with you there are lots of adhesives out there. I have narrowed it down to a few that I have found work well for me. And by sticking with a few I have become more familiar and by extension more competent and confident with them.

My go-to adhesives are: inside or under varnish: Titebond III (very water resistant--and I do use it for exterior woodplugs on bare teak) , ureaformaldehyde (great form laminating tillers though not waterproof and no glue line) West epoxy, West Gflex, Sytem 3 T88 (cold weather epoxy). Exterior not under paint or varnish or structural I try to only use Aerodux 185 (cold weather resorcinol). Occasionally, I'll use 5200 and 4000uv as an adhesive.

The only thing I can say about joints is make them tight. If I had to gap fill I think I would go with epoxy.

[gates_cliff]

Ok, yesterday I finally got around to start removing the bronze rub strake. As previously mentioned, it appears many of the screw holes are stripped. Using advice above I got a bag of 1/4" teak plugs and planned to drill and plug each hole then redrill pilot holes for the screw. Some previous owner had replaced screws, some longer, and one that is some dissimilar metal with a Phillips head, and maybe stainless, although that doesn't seem likely since the head is corroded or rusted. The problem is that I can't get enough purchase on the screw head to get it to turn. I did try a screw remover, that did not work, previously I only had marginal success with them anyway.

I know it's hard to figure what I'm talking about from this description but if any of it makes sense I'd appreciate any ideas on how to remove it.

[Frenchy]

Cliff, I think the next thing I would try is an abrasive cutoff wheel on a dremel. Try making a wide enough slot
for your impact driver (either manual or battery-powered) and see if you can ease it out without breaking off the
head. If the head breaks, you might get it out after removing the rest of the screws and the rub strake.
Use a vice grip on the stub. Good luck - Jean

[John Stone]

Andre,
I have had good luck with a screw remover called Easy Iut. There on my tool web page. Also, I stumbled onto a great technique for removing screws whose heads have broken off. I used it in wood but it would work the same in fiberglass. One of those should work.

Here is the link. Scroll to 10 Aug 2015.

http://www.farreachvoyages.com/dailylog ... oct15.html

[mgphl52]

John,

I'm getting an error on the link... says the domain registration expired last year...

[John Stone]

Weird. Just tried it. Came right up. Try again.
Let me know. Anyone else having trouble connecting?

http://www.farreachvoyages.com/dailylog ... oct15.html

[Sea Hunt Video]

John S.:

I got the same screen Mike got.

[Paul Clayton]

John, I'm getting the expired domain message too, though I went on your site just a few days ago and it was fine. The page I am reaching is for Network Solutions and states:

"farreachvoyages.com expired on 04/15/2016 and is pending renewal or deletion"

Considering the 2016 expiration date I'm thinking your web host is having some technical difficulties. But if somebody jumped in and snagged your domain while the host was messing around it could be a dickens of a time getting it back - if it were my domain I'd be in contact with my web host as soon as possible. Good luck with it, John.

regards
pmc

[John Stone]

Well. It took a phone call to Network Solutions but we got it worked out. Should be back up and running now.

Thanks everyone for the heads up.

[mgphl52]

Hi John,

I suspect that you were bringing up cached data... much like i just got, until I opened a different browser!
Your site is coming up fine now.

-michael