bronze rub-strake over rubrail?

jambalaya · Post by **jambalaya** » Sep 23rd, '07, 10:53

I need help locating a source for replacement parts for the bronze rubstrake which is affixed to the rubrail of all our boats. It is 5/16" wide and is ususallly made in 6 foot or 8 foot lengths. I believe they are sometimes called "half-rounds" although they are nowhere near "half" of a "round." The obvious function is to protect the teak rubrail when it is accomplishing its function.

There was at one time a correspondent to this Board called "Bristo Bronze" but I have not seen him on the Board in many months. I wonder whether (1) anyone knows a source for these items, or (2) whether anyone knows how to contact "Bristol Bronze."

My appreciation in advance.

Will Parker
"Jambalaya"
CD 30B

Zeida · Post by **Zeida** » Sep 23rd, '07, 16:22

Will... go to Google and type "Bronze Half-Rounds"... you will get a bunch of places where to get them.

Al Levesque · Post by **Al Levesque** » Sep 23rd, '07, 16:44

Our boat didn't come from the previous owner with them included. We bought the material through the local yard. They called them half ovals. Probably to distinguish from the true half round shape that is commonly seen in wood. Defender carries them in stainless but as Zeida wrote, Google should provide sources in bronze.

Jeff G · Post by **Jeff G** » Sep 24th, '07, 16:45

I looked for these but could only find them in stainless. Talked to a boat builder at the Maine Boatbuilders Show last winter and he said they don't make them in bronze only brass. I asked why and he said bronze is too brittle to bend around curves. If the rub strip only touches the wood then there should be no corrosion issues. If you do find some in bronze please post the source!

aja · Post by **aja** » Sep 24th, '07, 20:43

They have them in brass here...

I know that they used to carry them in bronze - but wow were they expensive!

Give them a call - maybe they don't have them listed on the site - but still carry them. We used brass on our boat.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... &page=GRID

Diana

jambalaya · Post by **jambalaya** » Sep 25th, '07, 18:48

Thanks to Zeida,et al for the kind and prompt responses. I tried all suggestions and all I got was BRASS. Brass no good. It looks as if I may have to switch to, I hate to say it, "stainless steel."

Anyway, you all were very kind as all subscribers to this Board are.

Will Parker
s/v Jambalaya

Emil Maurer · Post by **Emil Maurer** » Sep 25th, '07, 19:00

I have this phone number for Bristol Bronze:
401.625.5224

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Sep 25th, '07, 20:26

I have used the brass for a few applications. You are not dealing with something that is immersed in sea water or any problems with dissimilar metals. There is a reason you can't find bronze and everybody has brass. The brass works just fine for this application. Once it patinas you will not be able to tell weather it is brass or bronze. Stainless is a whole other matter. You will know it is stainless. I have gone with the brass oval and used bronze screws. I keep all the slots lined up and once everything tarnishes in a very short time it all looks perfect. I have used Jamestown as a supplier too. They have always been very good. Best of luck, Steve.

Bill Jarrell · Post by **Bill Jarrell** » Sep 26th, '07, 08:40

I have had an ongoing issue with Bristol Bronze for over two years. I have involved a consumer advocate group, the Rhode Island Better Business Bureau, and the Fed's Postal Fraud service, to date Bristol Bronze is stonewalling.

Regards,

Bill

jambalaya · Post by **jambalaya** » Sep 30th, '07, 19:51

We are blessed, not only because we own Cape Dorys, but but because all the Cape Dory owners are such good folks. I continue to be grateful for all the really very good advice I have purloined from reading this Board. And whenever I hazard a question, the answers are always prompt and useful.
What Can I say, except thanks for taking the time to read my post and respond to it.
Every answer was helpful and I will let you know what I finally do.

Will
Jambalaya
CD30
Hull # 358

Shipscarver · Post by **Shipscarver** » Nov 22nd, '08, 21:25

I have started cleaning off the old varnish, preparing to do all the brightwork on my CD27.
The rub rail bronze trim is still in place. I am not looking forward to removing it in furtherance of the brightwork job, for fear of not being able to replace any that might get damaged.
Are there any tales to tell of removing, cleaning, and reinstalling. Did you varnish over it, or seal it in some way after reinstalling it after finishing the varnish work? Did you try doing it while in a slip?

Troy Scott · Post by **Troy Scott** » Nov 23rd, '08, 10:33

Well, I know it's not original. But it's TOUGH. The main problem I see with SS it that it's EXPENSIVE. It's also probably a bit harder to force into shape than brass would be. It's pre-drilled: that's a plus. Has anyone tried it? I'm guessing that there is probably some old brass rubrail material out there. You might ask if someone has replaced their rail and what they did with the leftover pieces that were OK.

Paul D. · Post by **Paul D.** » Nov 23rd, '08, 14:18

Regarding removing bronze rub rail for refinishing the wood, be very slow backing out the screws, especially if brass. Maybe even use a brace and bit if your driver fits the screw head. They strip out very easily.

They should come off easy enough if they are not 5200'ed or something silly like that. Set aside and do the brightwork nice and then replace. If your screws are stripped in the wood, try either filling the holes with epoxy and redrilling or going up one size screw. You may need to countersink the bronze though, If it is a small diameter that could cause more problems then it is worth.

Good luck,
Paul

Ron M. · Post by **Ron M.** » Nov 23rd, '08, 17:15

My boat did not have metal 1/2 round on it's rub rail. I did however install 6' of stainless on each side of the bow to minimize wear from my mooring lines - that has worked out well.
Local boat repair yards and consignment shops are a good source for this stuff used, and much cheaper than new.
________
CHEAP GLASS PIPES

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Nov 23rd, '08, 17:38

I removed some brass rub rail from a Typhoon that was 5200 ed in place. Most of the screws very quickly stripped even though the bit fit well. Tool of choice was a hack saw behind the brass to cut off the screws. A slight shift in replacement seemed easier than going to heroics to get things back in exactly the same location. The brass rail seems like the perfect place to end the varnish. You could even paint up underneath the rail if you wanted to seal up the wood. On my CD-30 I too did 3 foot sections in wear areas. The rub rail got a piece at the bow to keep the mooring lines from chafing. The toe rail got some at the stern to teach the dock lines some manners when not going through the stern chock. Brass definitely looks good on a Cape Dory. As far as predrilled stock being an advantage I am not so sure that is the case. Whenever I have added a piece of rub rail I always check the lay out of the plugged holes in the teak to make sure I am not trying to drill my holes right on top of them. What would seem like a logical layout at first might get you in trouble with underlying screws. I wonder if the price of brass will come down now that the scrap metal prices have moderated. Best of luck with your rails, Steve.

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