CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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- Posts: 892
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- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
Putting progress photos up especially for Roberto. Stripped several layers of paint off the bottom and they are sanding the rest. It looks pretty good to me. The yard is not recommending the barrier coat. They said that after they strip all the paint they measure the moisture content and when its too high the epoxy just traps it in ??? .They are not too excited about doing the backing plates. I removed all the chain plates and thru bolts and started working on the bow plate. After 4-5 hrs I decided to let the yard try Hopefully they have more experience and some tricks up their sleeves. I would appreciate any suggestions I couldn't get very good access to the side plates so the photos aren't very good. Also can anyone recommend how I should modify the bowsprit so I can use a windlass. I'll put that photo next time. Thank you.
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WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510
- Sea Hunt Video
- Posts: 2561
- Joined: May 4th, '11, 19:03
- Location: Former caretaker S/V Bali Ha'i 1982 CD 25D; Hull 69 and S/V Tadpole Typhoon Week
Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
JD:
Very nice photos. Thank you for sharing.
Very nice photos. Thank you for sharing.
Fair winds,
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
- Sea Hunt Video
- Posts: 2561
- Joined: May 4th, '11, 19:03
- Location: Former caretaker S/V Bali Ha'i 1982 CD 25D; Hull 69 and S/V Tadpole Typhoon Week
Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
JD:
Very nice photos. Thank you for sharing.
Very nice photos. Thank you for sharing.
Fair winds,
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
- Bob Ohler
- Posts: 610
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 14:11
- Location: CD30 1984 Hull# 335 Aloha Spirit, Chesapeake Bay
Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
I have had a surveyor tell me the same thing about barrier coating a wet hull. He said the boat would have to be out of the water a long time for it to dry out enough for the barrier coat. Paint the bottom and get back in the water as soon as you can and go sailing!
Bob Ohler
CDSOA Member #188
CD30B, Hull # 335
sv Aloha Spirit
CDSOA Member #188
CD30B, Hull # 335
sv Aloha Spirit
Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
Not sure I would have posted this under "Cape Dory Eye Candy". Maybe there should be a new category like "Cape Dory Purgatory"?
When you are convinced that it is hopeless and that you are the biggest dam fool who every bought a boat, it will fall down on your head.
The side plates are easier to work on, once you cut away some of the liner.
A note of caution, until the late 1970's it was common to use asbestos as filler in polyester resin to make "Mish-Mash". Mish-mash is the black gunk in the hull-deck joint and around the bow plate.
Whatever the production year, I highly recommend wearing full face respirator.
For lots of good information, ideas and pictures, check out http://www.sbastro.com/FeNIX/Projects/P ... riorFS.htm
Just need to keep chipping away at the fiberglass that is holding it in place. I got most of it with an oscillating tool.JD wrote:...started working on the bow plate. After 4-5 hrs I decided to let the yard try
When you are convinced that it is hopeless and that you are the biggest dam fool who every bought a boat, it will fall down on your head.
The side plates are easier to work on, once you cut away some of the liner.
A note of caution, until the late 1970's it was common to use asbestos as filler in polyester resin to make "Mish-Mash". Mish-mash is the black gunk in the hull-deck joint and around the bow plate.
Whatever the production year, I highly recommend wearing full face respirator.
For lots of good information, ideas and pictures, check out http://www.sbastro.com/FeNIX/Projects/P ... riorFS.htm
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- Posts: 892
- Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
I agree Thank You. Both of the responses I got so far are really encouragingBob Ohler wrote:I have had a surveyor tell me the same thing about barrier coating a wet hull. He said the boat would have to be out of the water a long time for it to dry out enough for the barrier coat. Paint the bottom and get back in the water as soon as you can and go sailing!
WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510
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- Location: CHASSEUR Cape Dory 28, DAKOTA LEE Cape Dory 30B
Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
I would have the hull checked for moisture and if it checks out ok then do the barrier coat. I am a believer in E2000 but make sure you do a "hot" melding of barrier and bottom coat. Stuff is tough as nails and so smooth that your bottom paint will pop right off if you don't ensure adherence....ask me how I know! Luckily Interlux spotted me new paint even though it was my fault for not sanding aggressive enough before the bottom coat.
V/r
Pete
V/r
Pete
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Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
Thanks everyone for the helpful comments. I went back up to San Fran to check progress on the "Leoma",. They haven't done any more. I did tell them to take their time since I don't plan to sail the boat down to LA till August and I could use the time to save more money. I spent another 6 Hrs. on the bow plate and don't feel like I'm making any progress. Here is a photo. The top sides are falling off and are not connected. I think Its just that little bit of bond way up in the point. I've been kinda grinding it out with a long drill bit. It won't budge. I feel like there is another fastener hidden in the deck or in the bow. I'm feeling too old for this. It's killing me. The yard charges $135 per hr. and they are encouraging me to do what I can. But with the cost of driving up there and the lost income at home, I really don't think my contributions are helping. I don't make the big money like those Silicon Valley people but I think They would do it much more efficiently. Oh ,one of my bronze deck plates is broken but how do I know if the rest are ok besides wear around the holes? Does bronze last forever?
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Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
John, It looks like you have made great progress! You are doing everything the way that worked for me, including the long drill bit.
You might try putting on some ear and eye protection and striking it in different directions with a large hammer.
If nothing else, it is a great way to relieve some frustration. If you keep at it, it really will just fall out.
I guess that you are referring to the deck mounted chainplates? These fittings are probably still available from Spartan Marine Hardware or Rig-Rite, Inc.
I haven't seen bronze wear out. Could the damage be the result of an impact or is it possible that the load exceeded the yield strength?
Let us know how it is going.
Jonathan
You might try putting on some ear and eye protection and striking it in different directions with a large hammer.
If nothing else, it is a great way to relieve some frustration. If you keep at it, it really will just fall out.
I guess that you are referring to the deck mounted chainplates? These fittings are probably still available from Spartan Marine Hardware or Rig-Rite, Inc.
I haven't seen bronze wear out. Could the damage be the result of an impact or is it possible that the load exceeded the yield strength?
Let us know how it is going.
Jonathan
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- Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
Thanks Jonathon, I got the Spartan chainplate and the seacock maintainence kit from Robinhood/Derector or whatever the name is. I'm going up to San Fran tomorrow to work Fri and Sat on the sides. I really need to cut alot of the liner and I hope not any of the bulkheads, they span across both bulkheads. I guess I need to work on the bowsprit also in case the yard decides to go at it. They are laying off my boat cuz they got busy and I told them I don't need the boat back till end of summer.When I plan to sail down here in LA. I should have her structurally functional then. The sails are old but I think they will make it and I have a spare main and a brand new working gib that I kept from my last boat I'll take more photos soon. Oh, I think the chainplate broke at the fastener because the backing plates were falling apart and so much slack made too much work. I think it cracked when I tightened it up before I went to the boatyard.I'm not sure it might of been already broke.
WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510
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- Posts: 892
- Joined: Feb 8th, '17, 14:23
- Location: s/v "Leoma" 1977 CD 30K #46 San Francisco CA
Re: CD 30K "Leoma" update 3/20/17
Yea! I got them out. Thanks to Jonathon I got a new spirit . When I got up to San Fran on Friday I used bigger crow bar and wiggled and pried the bow plate and out came out easy. Then I continued with the sides and by noon I had them out. I not gonna do the other s till I know how much $ I still have. The backs don't look bad but the forward ones of the Mizzen are terrible. But I can get the boat to LA without the mizzen. But I still have three months so I will probably make enough to complete these. I wonder why the sides have a piece separate of the actual backer plate extending aft of the main bulkhead. you can see in the photo the piece about 12" long. is so rusty but It doesn't seem to have been all one piece
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WDM3579
MMSI 368198510
MMSI 368198510