Cape Dory Dink 7'7" any owners out there?

[David Patterson]

Bob, an update on my Dink, after a few weeks of use. Rowing is exceptionally easy, even compared to a dinghy that I thought rowed well. With her broad "vee" bottom and her keel/skeg she slips thru the water and tracks true. Her long "carry" has required me to be careful not to bump into hulls or docks. I'm using the 6 1/2 foot oars from my prior dinghy, and expect to move her better yet, once I get the 7 footers suitable for her size. She spins like a top when the oars are opposed for turning. Carrying capacity is excellent. I've kedged out a 16.5 lb Bruce once, "walking" my boat in an anchorage, finding her more than adequately roomy and stable for the task. Shore runs for provisioning leave me enough room --even with propane, water, food, and ice-- for another person my size. I've yet to carry a passenger in her. The forward rowing station will likely make that easy. Her stability surprises me. I can sit at either end of the empty boat with freeboard to spare. Stepping in gives me no concern. I can stand on the bottom in any corner. (I'm only 155 lbs.) Loaded, she is even more stable. I haven't motored her, nor have I sailed her yet, as I have work to do on sail and centerboard. I'll add a 2" x 7/16" lead disc to aid in the board dropping all the way, and staying vertical. I'm considering a second pennant, to keep the board down. Below is a photo of her under tow, at about 1.5 SOG, looking like a little bathtub. Question: does your mast have a pin to secure the joint of the two parts? If so, could you post a photo? Thanks, David, Friday Harbor

[David Patterson]

A bit of info on how my Dink behaves under power: I mounted my 2.3 Honda on her, first having to remove that black metal plate visible on the stern in that photo above. A previous owner had added a piece to the stern that made it just too thick for the outboard to slide over. I rapidly found out two things as I motored off. One is that the little dinghy will make 4 knots with the engine throttle at the "Start" position, which is not quite half speed. A 2hp motor is more than adequate. A small electric would probably also be. This dinghy offers very little water resistance. I did not see if it will plane. I wonder, but the second fact deterred me...water was squirting up through the centerboard trunk, especially as I crossed wakes. When I get the board repaired (probably next spring) and re-mounted, I intend to seal the top of the trunk well. Settling back to 2.5 or 3 knots, occasionally mopping up water with a big bailing sponge, I made my 2 mile recon of the harbor easily. By sitting on the forward thwart and using a tiller extender of 18 inches or so, I managed the fore and aft trim with no problems. Her lateral stability is good, for I could lean over to squeeze out the sponge with no tipping, nor any change of direction with the engine swing tightened on course. The high bow, hull chines, and good freeboard made for a comfortably dry ride, other than the water from the trunk. While I'm greedily intending to extend my life and functionality by rowing the boat as much as possible, I won't hesitate to motor LAGNIAPPE as needed. A fine little craft, that Vavolotis designed and built.

[Dick Villamil]

The Cd10 has a design for a plug that fits in the top of the centerboard trunk to prevent water from splashing into the boat during towing or rowing in rough water when fully laden. Although I haven't yet made one for my CD10 the design is somewhere on this message board. Before covering the trunk with the seat board you may want to make a plug - tie it in place with a small line and cleat so it cannot be lost. Also, a good idea to attach a safety line to the centerboard to prevent it from getting lost in case of a capsize. The rudder looks exactly like the one for my CD10 but the centerboard is a completely different design. Nice looking DINK!

[David Patterson]

Once repaired and re-shipped, the center board will act as a plug, Dick. The boat is set up to have the slot covered at all times, as you can see in this photo. A daggerboard slot would allow for a deeper board to be used, surely. I've already grown fond of the seat arrangement for rowing. Very comfortable with position for rowing easy to adjust. The board has a pin it rotates on so is attached well to the boat. Do you sail your CD10? David

[David Patterson]

CD 7'7" on a CD25D foredeck. Not a bad fit, and something I'd be willing to do crossing a local strait. She covers my heater exhaust, so no use of the heater while carrying her this way. I could get forward to deal with a mooring line, or a furler over-ride, but not much else. With a stern release anchor set up as I do, not having access to the anchor locker might be ok, depending. I'd hate to not be able to get to my primary, though. Still, this is a rough water option. She would need to be secured by line, naturally.

[Bob Parsons]

Hi Dave,

Sorry for my late response, busy time here, and we are out for the season.
Great details on your experiences with your dink, looking forward to spring even more!

There is no pin on my mast, the lower section does have small hole in a position I imagine could be the spot for one, no matching hole on the upper though.

Regards,

[David Patterson]

Thanks. I'll study mine more in the spring. Wish my seats looked as well sanded as yours! David

[Bob Parsons]

Just a few minutes with an orbital sander and your seat will be a beautiful thing!
I have found some evidence of sealant between seat bottom and trunk flange, I'm thinking a rubber gasket might not be a bad idea once I have the centerboard rebuilt and back in place.

[David Patterson]

Bob, my sanding will probably be by hand, since on the rare times I'm at a dock I run into sanding restrictions. No shore-side shop access for me. Too, I'm about 1500 miles from the boat for the winter. All in good time, I suppose. The small SS brace under the forward part of LAGNIAPPE's rowing seat appears to be broken. Would you please post a photo of CROUTON's, at some point this winter? I've been thinking of adding two small wood strips, port and starboard, under seat and thwart, as a way to further stabilize the seat to keep it from tilting while in use. What do you think of that idea? And will you leave your wood plain, or add a finish? David

[David Patterson]

I'm finally getting to my Cape Dory Dink centerboard and trunk. Below is a photo of the exposed trunk, before re-bedding the thwart and rowing seat. Not well bedded or secured, the seat had been flexing enough to damage the trunk flange some. I made no repairs to it, but re-bedded and got a good seal and a stable seat. The board itself didn't inspire confidence in me that it would stay down, so I decided to add a bit more weight. A friend cast a 3/4" by 2 1/2" lead disk for me. It shows in place in the second photo. I estimate that it weighs about 12-14 ounces. Once I get a rough sanding done, and the epoxy on, I'll try to remember to take and post a photo. The board won't be snazzy but will hopefully be effective. I'm finding the little boat very utilitarian for me, and a good conversation piece, for there are no others about. I have new 7' oars from Barkely Sound Oar and Paddle to set up for use. LAGNIAPPE is an excellent addition to my cruising.