The only thing I have to consider above what I suspect was the case for the other discussions on topping lifts is that I have a lazy jack system... I forget its name, but its not a traditional system (lots of lines on both sides of sail) and its not a Doyle Stack Pack. It consists of two thin vertical wires, each that attach to the topping life and interweaves through eyelets in the main and then attach to the boom (or more specifically to the foot of the sail). Whatever its called, I would never give it up - love it.
DUTCHMAN - that's it
Line sizes - CD-36
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- mashenden
- Posts: 510
- Joined: Apr 3rd, '05, 19:19
- Location: "Nautica" CD-36 #84, Ty-K #83, & CD-10 #1539 in Urbanna, VA. 4 other Tys in past
- Contact:
Re: Line sizes - CD-36
Matt Ashenden
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff
Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff
Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
- mashenden
- Posts: 510
- Joined: Apr 3rd, '05, 19:19
- Location: "Nautica" CD-36 #84, Ty-K #83, & CD-10 #1539 in Urbanna, VA. 4 other Tys in past
- Contact:
Re: Line sizes - CD-36
Despite my dislike for Sta-Set X line, I went with 5/16" X for the Genny furling line since I figure the larger sail puts more force on this line, so the stronger, less stretchier (is that a word?) line had an advantage... and there was some on e-Bay.
My main gripe with Sta-Set X is how difficult it is to finish it with an eye splice (despite some pretty respectable line working skills, if I don't say so myself). No splices needed in this situation.
My main gripe with Sta-Set X is how difficult it is to finish it with an eye splice (despite some pretty respectable line working skills, if I don't say so myself). No splices needed in this situation.
Matt Ashenden
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff
Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
- I used to like boating and fixing stuff, then I bought a couple of boats and now I just fix stuff
Oh, and please check out my webpage... http://VaRivah.com
Re: Line sizes - CD-36
Since I have lazy jacks I went with 3/16 Amsteel for my topping lift. It's terminated at the masthead and adjusted at the gooseneck end of the boom. It's been in use since 2010 when I replaced all my standing rigging. My boat is stored on the hard each year with the rig removed so the topping lift is not in tension continueously but the mast is stored outdoors fully exposed to the elements. This is the first year I've noticed any sign of aging. Under the right lighting conditions I can see some "hairs" along it's length. For that reason alone I will replace it this winter. I will, once again, specify the "harmonic free" Amsteel when I place my order. It costs a little more but it's well worth it.Steve Laume wrote:John Stone wrote: P.S. You can also rig the dyneema topping lift the same way as it is probably rigged on your boat now--terminated at the top and run to a 2:1 block on the end of the boom, cleated off near the gooseneck.
The only problem I have had with it is that it would hum when tensioned up with the sails down. It was making me crazy. It was loudest down below and it took me a while to figure out where the sound was coming from. It didn't even have to be very windy to make it happen. I fixed it by tying three or four pieces of short line to it as high up as I could reach, while standing on the boom.
Jim Walsh
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time
Ex Vice Commodore
Ex Captain-Northeast Fleet
CD31 ORION
The currency of life is not money, it's time