Wilcox Crittenden Skipper II repaint ideas
Moderator: Jim Walsh
-
- Posts: 36
- Joined: Jan 22nd, '12, 09:23
- Location: Cape Dory 36
Jubilee
Galesville, Md.
Wilcox Crittenden Skipper II repaint ideas
Our Skipper II head is peeling paint from the bronze and has some heavy blue/green corrosion...we have brushed off loose paint and corrosion. Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to repaint the bronze? Any special paint or product?
- Matt Cawthorne
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mar 2nd, '05, 17:33
- Location: CD 36, 1982
Hull # 79
I have two!
The first I sand blasted, primed with interlux primewash primer and coated with interthane. It looks new after roughly 7 years, but it was a great deal of work.
The second I had sandblasted and powder coated. I bought it for parts when I was desperate for a unique part. I got it for a song and decided that it would be a shame if it never was used again. It looks new as well, but has not seen service since it was coated. . Castings can be problematic for powder coating. We will see if I ever decide to use the second one.
Cleaning up the bronze head is a definite improvement. What about having it powder coated in a clear finish?
The second I had sandblasted and powder coated. I bought it for parts when I was desperate for a unique part. I got it for a song and decided that it would be a shame if it never was used again. It looks new as well, but has not seen service since it was coated. . Castings can be problematic for powder coating. We will see if I ever decide to use the second one.
Cleaning up the bronze head is a definite improvement. What about having it powder coated in a clear finish?
- Sea Hunt Video
- Posts: 2561
- Joined: May 4th, '11, 19:03
- Location: Former caretaker S/V Bali Ha'i 1982 CD 25D; Hull 69 and S/V Tadpole Typhoon Week
Rustoleum I have used it a lot on metal lawn furniture. Not sure how it would work on your Wilcox Crittenden. Just a thought.
Fair winds,
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
Roberto
a/k/a Sea Hunt "The Tadpole Sailor"
CDSOA #1097
________________________________
"I wish to have no Connection with any Ship that does not Sail fast for I intend to go in harm's way." Captain John Paul Jones, 16 November 1778, as quoted in Naval History and Heritage Command, http://www.history.navy.mil
- tartansailor
- Posts: 1526
- Joined: Aug 30th, '05, 13:55
- Location: CD25, Renaissance, Milton, DE
Finishing Bronze
It is very difficult to get paint to stick to bronze.
Have seen professionally buffed and polished bronze that was a real touch of class, which made a very positive statement for the owner.
Have seen professionally buffed and polished bronze that was a real touch of class, which made a very positive statement for the owner.
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
We are talking about the base of the head in a very tight space that can hardly be seen!rtbates wrote:Painting bronze??
There SHOULD be a law!
Polishing the bell and the lamps is very seaman like. Polishing the base of the head would be akin to keel hauling. If it is not covered with some sort of sealer it will leave green stains to clean up.
I wet with Rustolium for ready availability and the ease of application, Steve.
Coatings for Bronze?
The PO of my CD 22D invested much effort in restoring all bronze portholes and fittings to their original beautiful condition. While I think they look wonderful, I know that, realistically, I will not have the time to maintain them in this condition. I have read about spray on sealants, such as Everbrite, which are supposed to protect and maintain exterior bronze fittings for several years.
Does anyone have any experience with these products or any other thoughts on the appropriateness of their use?
Does anyone have any experience with these products or any other thoughts on the appropriateness of their use?
There is a finish
There is a maritime finish for bronze that has passed the test of time and requires little effort. It is also considered traditional and shows that the vessel has been well used. It may also show where the priorities are.
It is called "Sea Dust" and it is greenish in color.
As to clear coats I have yet to see one that stands the test of time on anything that is used on a regular basis, like winches or cleats.
It is called "Sea Dust" and it is greenish in color.
As to clear coats I have yet to see one that stands the test of time on anything that is used on a regular basis, like winches or cleats.
Jim Davis
S/V Isa Lei
S/V Isa Lei
- Matt Cawthorne
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mar 2nd, '05, 17:33
- Location: CD 36, 1982
Hull # 79
It is a cast finish
So it is not easily polished. It is a complex part that is hard to polish. The alloy quickly corrodes to a not-so pleasant green surface that sheds green corrosion residue that makes a mess. I strongly recommend sand blasting followed by a coating with a top of the line primer.
- Matt Cawthorne
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mar 2nd, '05, 17:33
- Location: CD 36, 1982
Hull # 79
It is a cast finish
So it is not easily polished. It is a complex part that is hard to polish. The alloy quickly corrodes to a not-so pleasant green surface that sheds green corrosion residue that makes a mess. I strongly recommend sand blasting followed by a coating with a top of the line primer.
For the head pump
I fully agree, sand blast, perhaps an acid etch, prime and paint. For deck hardware - different story.
Jim Davis
S/V Isa Lei
S/V Isa Lei
I'm not saying it should be polished, I'm saying it should NOT be painted...Bronze is best left 100% as is...Steve Laume wrote:We are talking about the base of the head in a very tight space that can hardly be seen!rtbates wrote:Painting bronze??
There SHOULD be a law!
Polishing the bell and the lamps is very seaman like. Polishing the base of the head would be akin to keel hauling. If it is not covered with some sort of sealer it will leave green stains to clean up.
I wet with Rustolium for ready availability and the ease of application, Steve.
As for the green stains, fix the leak??
Randy 25D Seraph #161
- Matt Cawthorne
- Posts: 355
- Joined: Mar 2nd, '05, 17:33
- Location: CD 36, 1982
Hull # 79
The leak is not in the boat.
Boats tend to be in a very humid environment. Use the pump and pull some cool water into the head and moisture can condense on it. And let's not forget that it is in the head area. When one cleans the head it gets wet with whatever chemicals are used to disinfect things. When cleaning a rough, corroded surface it never seems clean.
I have had this very problem with my Skipper-II head. Painting it was a huge improvement.
I have had this very problem with my Skipper-II head. Painting it was a huge improvement.
- Steve Laume
- Posts: 4127
- Joined: Feb 13th, '05, 20:40
- Location: Raven1984 Cape Dory 30C Hull #309Noank, CT
- Contact:
On Raven, the head sits on a shelf right under the opening port. This is the second port from the bow. The first one, in the V berth, gets closed first or never opened if spray is anticipated. The ones in the head are most likely to see some sea water and it ends up at the base of the head.
I have buffed my bell that hangs in the shelter of the companion way numerous times. Basically once a year. I have tried nothing but Never Dull touch up, wax and clear coatings. I still have to take it home and put it on the buffing wheel, every year no matter how I treat it afterward.
Paint the head base and sail, you can't even admire it when you are sitting on it, Steve.
I have buffed my bell that hangs in the shelter of the companion way numerous times. Basically once a year. I have tried nothing but Never Dull touch up, wax and clear coatings. I still have to take it home and put it on the buffing wheel, every year no matter how I treat it afterward.
Paint the head base and sail, you can't even admire it when you are sitting on it, Steve.