Wilcox Crittenden Skipper II repaint ideas

Jeff Peterson · Post by **Jeff Peterson** » Jan 23rd, '12, 21:36

Our Skipper II head is peeling paint from the bronze and has some heavy blue/green corrosion...we have brushed off loose paint and corrosion. Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to repaint the bronze? Any special paint or product?

Matt Cawthorne · Post by **Matt Cawthorne** » Jan 23rd, '12, 23:56

The first I sand blasted, primed with interlux primewash primer and coated with interthane. It looks new after roughly 7 years, but it was a great deal of work.

The second I had sandblasted and powder coated. I bought it for parts when I was desperate for a unique part. I got it for a song and decided that it would be a shame if it never was used again. It looks new as well, but has not seen service since it was coated. . Castings can be problematic for powder coating. We will see if I ever decide to use the second one.

Cleaning up the bronze head is a definite improvement. What about having it powder coated in a clear finish?

Sea Hunt Video · Post by **Sea Hunt Video** » Jan 24th, '12, 00:26

Rustoleum

I have used it a lot on metal lawn furniture. Not sure how it would work on your Wilcox Crittenden. Just a thought.

tartansailor · Post by **tartansailor** » Jan 24th, '12, 20:04

It is very difficult to get paint to stick to bronze.
Have seen professionally buffed and polished bronze that was a real touch of class, which made a very positive statement for the owner.

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Jan 25th, '12, 09:57

Painting bronze??

There SHOULD be a law!

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Jan 25th, '12, 10:49

rtbates wrote:Painting bronze??

There SHOULD be a law!

We are talking about the base of the head in a very tight space that can hardly be seen!

Polishing the bell and the lamps is very seaman like. Polishing the base of the head would be akin to keel hauling. If it is not covered with some sort of sealer it will leave green stains to clean up.

I wet with Rustolium for ready availability and the ease of application, Steve.

Gary H · Post by **Gary H** » Jan 25th, '12, 14:02

The PO of my CD 22D invested much effort in restoring all bronze portholes and fittings to their original beautiful condition. While I think they look wonderful, I know that, realistically, I will not have the time to maintain them in this condition. I have read about spray on sealants, such as Everbrite, which are supposed to protect and maintain exterior bronze fittings for several years.
Does anyone have any experience with these products or any other thoughts on the appropriateness of their use?

Jim Davis · Post by **Jim Davis** » Jan 25th, '12, 14:13

There is a maritime finish for bronze that has passed the test of time and requires little effort. It is also considered traditional and shows that the vessel has been well used. It may also show where the priorities are.

It is called "Sea Dust" and it is greenish in color.

As to clear coats I have yet to see one that stands the test of time on anything that is used on a regular basis, like winches or cleats.

Matt Cawthorne · Post by **Matt Cawthorne** » Jan 25th, '12, 17:23

So it is not easily polished. It is a complex part that is hard to polish. The alloy quickly corrodes to a not-so pleasant green surface that sheds green corrosion residue that makes a mess. I strongly recommend sand blasting followed by a coating with a top of the line primer.

Matt Cawthorne · Post by **Matt Cawthorne** » Jan 25th, '12, 17:30

So it is not easily polished. It is a complex part that is hard to polish. The alloy quickly corrodes to a not-so pleasant green surface that sheds green corrosion residue that makes a mess. I strongly recommend sand blasting followed by a coating with a top of the line primer.

Jim Davis · Post by **Jim Davis** » Jan 25th, '12, 17:42

I fully agree, sand blast, perhaps an acid etch, prime and paint. For deck hardware - different story.

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Jan 25th, '12, 18:34

Steve Laume wrote:
rtbates wrote:Painting bronze??

There SHOULD be a law!
We are talking about the base of the head in a very tight space that can hardly be seen!

Polishing the bell and the lamps is very seaman like. Polishing the base of the head would be akin to keel hauling. If it is not covered with some sort of sealer it will leave green stains to clean up.

I wet with Rustolium for ready availability and the ease of application, Steve.

I'm not saying it should be polished, I'm saying it should NOT be painted...Bronze is best left 100% as is...

As for the green stains, fix the leak??

Matt Cawthorne · Post by **Matt Cawthorne** » Jan 26th, '12, 17:33

Boats tend to be in a very humid environment. Use the pump and pull some cool water into the head and moisture can condense on it. And let's not forget that it is in the head area. When one cleans the head it gets wet with whatever chemicals are used to disinfect things. When cleaning a rough, corroded surface it never seems clean.

I have had this very problem with my Skipper-II head. Painting it was a huge improvement.

Steve Laume · Post by **Steve Laume** » Jan 26th, '12, 18:45

On Raven, the head sits on a shelf right under the opening port. This is the second port from the bow. The first one, in the V berth, gets closed first or never opened if spray is anticipated. The ones in the head are most likely to see some sea water and it ends up at the base of the head.

I have buffed my bell that hangs in the shelter of the companion way numerous times. Basically once a year. I have tried nothing but Never Dull touch up, wax and clear coatings. I still have to take it home and put it on the buffing wheel, every year no matter how I treat it afterward.

Paint the head base and sail, you can't even admire it when you are sitting on it, Steve.

The Cape Dory Board

Wilcox Crittenden Skipper II repaint ideas

Wilcox Crittenden Skipper II repaint ideas

I have two!

Finishing Bronze

Coatings for Bronze?

There is a finish

It is a cast finish

It is a cast finish

For the head pump

The leak is not in the boat.