Upgrading DC panel (1980 era)

[Mark Yashinsky]

A number of people, including myself, have replaced their 12v panels. Everything from premade panels, to fabrication from scratch.

[Ray Garcia]

Andy, Sharkbait - Wow, very nice work!

I have on my list a rewire of my CD27. Can you suggest any reference material describing the work you have done? My CD27 has a rat's nest of wiring behind the panel.

Thanks.

[Sea Owl]

Troy;

I haven't done my panel either, although it is on my extensive list...

...I am considering getting some 'ductwork' I have used in buildings to 'hide' surface runs of wire for a couple of runs. This is a rubberized plastic channel (looks like the letter U from on end) that you attach to the surface, and then has a snap-on cover. (Bottom of the U goes on the surface).

For a CD25 (as an example) it would let you run the mast wiring along the bulkhead next to the cabin top from the mast area to over by the bookshelf, then do a number of things, such as run underneath the bookshelf back to the power panel, or some other route. Almost unnoticeable when it is in, and MUCH easier than the drilling you propose. Just thinking about that made me cringe! I assume you have done similar stuff, and so have more confidence than I would in making that happen!

An alternative approach for thought....

I appreciate all the ideas/photos everyone has submitted; it has gotten me itching to fix mine, but I have a few higher priorities this Spring I am afraid....

Good luck Troy!

[Troy Scott]

Sea Owl,

Thanks for the thought. I hope your "higher priorities for the Spring" are fun, boat related things. I know all to well that life can throw some difficult distractions in our way.

WRT the wiring cover idea, I've seen several such setups. I once made some to match the interior of a Catalina 27, and that worked out OK. What I considered for the CD36 was taking a piece of small diamater PVC pipe, splitting it into less than a half-round, and bonding it to the ceiling. Since I'm pretty good with composites, and I need to paint the ceiling anyway, I could easily make such a cover almost disappear. The ceiling on the CD36 is pretty "busy" anyway. However, I think I have worked out a "jig" that should control the drill bit pretty well. At least I'll be able to monitor what's happening. If it seems to be going badly I can just stop and revert to my wiring cover idea.

[sfreihofer]

Troy,

I found that although the original wiring was bonded in place during construction, there is still space available between the cabin top and the liner. I would suggest you try running a wire snake (or even a straightened coathanger) from the fixture back toward the electrical box. You may find a clear path. I was able to pull a lot of duplex cable this way.

The problem with drilling a long distance is that you will inevitably poke through one surface or the other before you reach your goal. I would use that approach only as a last resort.

Stan

[Troy Scott]

Stan,

It isn't as scary as it sounds. The area between the upper surface of the ceiling and the lower surface of the deck averages about 5/8 of an inch. A lot of this space is open and clear. I will drill through a short space under the portlight, then the bit will pass through a hollow area about eight or ten inches as it approaches the space above the light fixtures. Once the bit is in the space above the light fixtures, I can actually see it and devise a means of keeping the bit near to and parallel to the ceiling. From there over to the space above the cabinetry is only about four more inches The geometry is such that there is little chance of the bit wandering into an area where it could wreak havoc. I believe this will actually be easier than just about any of the alternatives I've considered or heard about.

I did try an electrician's pull/push tape to see if I could find any reasonable alternative path for some new wires. I had no luck with that approach.

Wish me luck! I guess I'd better just go ahead and tend to this. Like the seacocks work, once it's done I can stop worrying about it!

Anyway, getting those wires in place will give me an excuse to put off re-glassing those three holes I don't need/want in the hull

[CruiseAlong]

That the electrical wiring on the CDs had a lot to be desired. A weak point. That said, I installed a Paneltronics DC panel to replace that fuse panel on my CD26. Pricing a bit more affordable than the Blue Sea but great quality and selection. The pics of the panel harness aobve is outstanding. Lots of hours spent on it with great results.
Dana

[gates_cliff]

Hello, I am new to this board, I just bought a CD 27, well actually about 6 weeks ago. ONe of the things the survey said, is that the shore power system needs to be redone. I'm not a stranger to wiring, etc, but wondering if anyone has any particular tips as to experience and/or equipment.

Thanks

[Troy Scott]

Cliff,

Blue Seas Systems has excellent equipment. Once you've checked it out you will have a basis for comparison. Some of the other stuff out there is OK as well.

[Ron M.]

Blueseas has nice stuff......but rather expensive. When I put in shore power a few years ago I installed a Paneltronics 4 circuit AC panel . Well made and practical, they offer many configurations of DC and AC panels. Worth a look..........
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TOYOTA E ENGINE

[Troy Scott]

Stan and ALL,

It worked! I solved the problem of getting new wires to my cabin lights. I used an 18" long by 1/4" drill bit to drill from near the bottom of the cabin side (below the opening ports) all the way through to the space above the cabinet. I used a 1 1/2" hole saw to cut through the ceiling above the light fixture. This allowed me to view the bit as it passed that space, making it possible to adjust the angle to avoid fiberglass. I cut another hole in the ceiling of the cabinet to pull the wire down through. This worked well and it was easy. I cut through no structural fiberglass. I removed only filler/mish-mash from between the ceiling and the deck structure, and a little of the non-structural ceiling. The light will cover the small hole in the cabin ceiling, and a wiring cover will cover the wire in the cabinet. I'm happy. I've also finished installing all of the new FRP seacock backing plates. Aligning and bonding these in parallel to the outer surface is a little tricky, but I developed a technique that works well.

[Troy Scott]

Andy,

Your panels and wiring look great! Do you have a close-up of the AC panel?

[Andy Denmark]

Hi Troy,

Thanks.

Here's a closer picture of the AC Panel. It's a standard Paneltronics design. Once you've determined which circuits you want it's a matter of determining breaker size and the label for the circuit. It comes prewired so all you have to do is hook up the wires. The labels and breakers are both interchangeable so if you decide down the road to use a different circuit it's a simple matter to change things.

Hope this is helpful.

Andy
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VAPORIZER MANUFACTURERS

[Andy Denmark]

Forgot the URL --


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MAZDA CAROL PICTURE

[Andy Denmark]

Troy,

Somehow I've managed to get Photobucket screwed up. I'll post a picture of the AC Panel when I get this sorted out. 0415 is too early for me to attempt anything that requires much thinking!
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Volcano vaporizer