Stranded in Azores need Cutlass Bearing for 25D

[Ron M.]

On my boat the set screws are located 2-1/4" inboard from the end of the
shaftlog. On the centerline. My cutlass is the same size as yours, 1"x 4"
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FORD BOSS 351 ENGINE HISTORY

[odie lingle]

thank you Ron and Russell for your input.

we did get the cutlass bearing out last night. it does appear worn out but I have not seen a new one yet (hopefully will be here Monday) so I'm not sure what it should look like when not worn. There was play in the shaft ( I grabbed the shaft and felt it as soon as we had the boat hauled) but some fellow sailors have told me that a little play is normal.

I didn´t find any set screws holding the cutlass bearing in. The stern tube is fiberglass and about eight inches long so the cutlass bearing takes up the first half and then the second half (extending into the boat) is just fiberglass, a little thicker to fit the shaft. Are the set screws you are refering to used to hold the stern tube? or the cutlass bearing? or both?

I don't think there should be more room between the anode and the back of the boat because then my prop would seem to be too close to the rudder, but I might be wrong. The anode was about three quarters of an inch in width and wrapped all the way around the shaft. It was still on but definitely needing replacing. I assume it is a collar anode, I didn´t know there was more than one kind. Also the stuffing box was replaced at some point with a PSS packing gland (I think this is correct, I don´t have the paper work at the internet station)

I think you are right, it is an alignment issue that has caused excessive wear. Then I think what happened is over the winter barnicles were able to grow on the shaft inside the tube. When I cranked the engine the shaft was corroded and out of balance and loose and banged around and that is what caused the noise. At least I hope that is the problem.................

I am a little discouraged but haven't given up. Every sailor that comes in here has problems, doesn´t matter how old or new, small or big his boat or how experienced a sailor he is either.

thank you again for your help, and I will keep you posted,

Odie

[odie lingle]

one more thing, my boat is hull #17 if that makes any difference.

Odie

[John Vigor]

Odie, the zinc collar on the shaft of my CD27 also is about a quarter inch from the end of the Cutless bearing. It has been that way for 25 years and never resulted in early wear to the bearing. In fact, when you're under way, the flow of water hitting the zinc collar is directed forward into the little grooves in the bearing.

I presume when your your mechanic referred to little cups to force water in from outside, he was referring to the Cutless bearing, not the stuffing box. Some stuffing boxes are plumbed for water, however, and many used to be fitted with a grease cup. Your CD25D does not need either, and your Cutless bearing needs a flow of only a few drops a minute to stay lubricated.

Cheers and good luck,

John Vigor

[Dean Abramson]

For most of the time we had our 25D, and now on this boat, we have had our zinc as John V describes, about 1/4 inch aft of the cutless bearing. I have seen no downside to this.

First, you start out each day with water already in the cutless bearing and the stuffing box hose. I don't see where air would come from in normal use. But basically it seems to me that 1/4 inch is a lot of room compared to the size of a water molecule.

But I have heard caveats like Russell's before, so I would appreciate seeing further discussion on this. My problem with the tapered zinc behind the prop (a la Perry Nut), is that when it decides to fall off, if you are motoring at the time, first it starts to chew up your rudder, because it can't slip aft without hitting the rudder.

With the Perry-type zinc, if you hear a sudden racket while motoring, turn the rudder hard right or left, creating space to let the sucker complete its ungraceful exit and minimize rudder damage.

I learned this the hard way, then switched to the collar zincs.

Dean

[Matt Cawthorne]

I have heard the argument before that the zinc could stop the water from getting to the cutlass bearing, but I don't believe it. For any who doubt that water will get to their cutlass bearing, just try removing the stuffing box packing nut and packing while the boat is in the water. The only time that one could even imagine that it would stop the water would be if the zinc were rubbing against the stern tube or whatever is actually protruding on your boat. If you see any signs of actual rubbing between the zinc and hull or stern tube, then yes, it is too close.

[Russell]

The issue is not one of if the water can or can not get in, if there is any space at all it will certainly get it. The matter is of how well it circulates. You want the hot lubricating water inside to circulate out with fresh cool water as quickly as possible, a zinc too close to the bearing will disturb that flow.

For what its worth I use both a perry nut zinc and a collar zinc (more the better IMO). But the CD36 allows for about 1" of space between the bearing and the zinc.

Just my opinion, but then, this could easily be another one of those freewheel vs locked prop debates, so I am going to leave it alone now.

[Matt Cawthorne]

There is no designed in mechanism to encourage seawater to perform a cooling role. My guess is that is because there is an extremely efficient heat transfer mechanism (condution down the length of the metal shaft). If flow were needed, certainly the designers would havecome up with a flow through design, or at least some sort of little impeller design.

[odie lingle]

Update...............Finally got my boat back in the water after a week on land. Like I said things are not as simple here as in the U.S. The part came to a nearby island last week and then mysteriously got shipped back to the mainland, the guy that runs the travel lift also unloads the big ships and one came in the day I wanted to get back in the water so he couldn't put me in, etc.

Anyway the important thing is I'm back in the water and everything looks good. My initial analysis had some flaws, the shaft and propeller DID turn when I put it in gear for example, could be a language problem with the diver I hired to look at it or just my own mistake. The lesson I learned (other than to carry a spare cutlass bearing) is to always spend a lot of time studying the problem first, I was too quick to jump in. Thought afterwards about a lot of things I could have done to isolate the problem, will help me with the next thing that breaks.............. So apparently the problem was the cutlass bearing was worn and over the winter barnicles grew on the shaft inside the bearing and when I put the boat in gear the corroded & unbalanced shaft made the noise I heard. At least I believe that is what happened.

I hope to leave for Ireland this weekend weather permitting. Will post a message when I get there "25D in Ireland" or someting similar. If I have time I'm going on to Scotland too, if not, will leave her in Ireland and see Scotland next summer, I only sail for three months at a time. Would like to see Scandanavia too either next summer or the summer after, that is as far ahead as I have planned.

I am still afraid the "sailing police" are going to check me and find I am not a real sailor and don't belong out here. But I keep listening and studying and learning and feel a little more confident with each step I take.
A single handed English fellow just completing a four year circumnavigation told me the other day that the most important thing is you trust your boat. I love and trust my little boat.

Thankyou all again for your help and input and hope you hear from me from Ireland in three or four weeks.

Odie

[Russell]

I am still afraid the "sailing police" are going to check me and find I am not a real sailor and don't belong out here. But I keep listening and studying and learning and feel a little more confident with each step I take.
A single handed English fellow just completing a four year circumnavigation told me the other day that the most important thing is you trust your boat. I love and trust my little boat.

You will find most "sailing police" are armchair sailors with no buisness suggesting anything. You go man! You are indeed a real sailor and the envy of many.

Glad you got your problems sorted out, have a lovely sail to Ireland! Can be an ugly stretch of water from the Azores to there I hear, I wish you the best conditions. I am sure I speak for everyone on this board when I say I look forward to hearing updates from you here now that you have found this community of Cape Dorys.

[mgphl52]

Just found this http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/CUTLESSBearings.htm:

PART# SHAFT DIA OUTSIDE DIA LENGTH METAL WALL LIST PRICE OUR PRICE

BLACKFISH 1 1-1/4 4 3/64 $50.61 $40.48BLACKFISH 1 1-1/4 4 3/64 $50.61 $40.48

I've never used them before, but will definitely give them a try in the future!

-michael & Toni

[rtbates]

Odie:
It's good hear that your problem is fixed and you're back on your way.

Best wishes and fair weather for your voyage

PS As a 25D owner with future plans to ocean sail (NO ocean crossing for sure), it's always a pleasure to hear of fellow 25D owners who have confidence in their boat at sea.

[Joe Myerson]

Odie,

Don't worry about having once not been a "real" sailor.

Anybody who makes it to the Azores in a 25D is, by default, a sailor.

Congratulations (I'm green with envy)!

Keep us posted when you're near a 'net connection.

--Joe