The Cape Dory Board

Keith, I finally found something on line about this thing. It looks like it is called a Drivesaver and not a shaftsaver. The bolts on the input side and the output side of the coupling do not line up and terminate inside the plastic disk. As a result their is no electrical path through the coupling ...

It seems that there is a lot of conflicting views on whether or not to bond through hulls and other electrically isolated items. My "new'ish" to me boat seems to have a mix of bonded and unbonded items. Also, the workmanship (or maintenance) of the bonding that was in place is poor at best...

I had to back off of my refit and have been out of the water for four years due to the economy, then college/tech school tuition for 2, and finally a wedding to pay for last year. As such, I've declared this year to be the summer of the boat (& Steve!) and have been pushing forward on my refit a...

I’ve always put a cup of rock salt in low the spot, which retards prevents a hard freeze up, at least in NJ.

No chemicals into water or ground. I was taught this decades ago (before the pink stuff was a thing)

All, Like many of you, I've been using butyl rubber for years to bed deck fittings and have been buying it from RV centers and online. It recently occurred to me that one of the sealants I've used for years in residential and commercial electrical work must have been butyl rubber. This material is k...

I’ve always had good luck with washing it and applying teak oil. That’s it, nice finish, simple and done in a few hours. If you want to keep it looking absolutely fresh touch up or redo mid summer.

Between modern computer color matching and a good fiberglass guy you should be able to get a near perfect or unnoticeable repair. Myself, another previous Ty owner/friend and one of his relatives had several repairs done by PF Customs (previously in Waretown,NI ) with great results. Even trained sur...

I sailed a 26 for two years and loved how she sailed. The double ended main sheet was a pain at first. I really focused on placing coils/piles on the adjacent seat and rarely ever let them get onto floor of cockpit. Keep the ends separated and pretty soon it will be easy and second nature. In order ...

If I recall correctly I installed pad eyes on the aft wall of the cockpit near the corners and lead the free end of tiller tamer lines inwards (horizontally) to the cam cleats which were mounted near the middle of the wall.

Congratulations. CD 26 hull 30 was indeed mine. Assuming the guy in the middle did not harm her (she was supposedly going to NC) you should find her well suited for the shallow waters and moderate-strong winds of southern NJ. If you have any questions you'll find multiple post on projects and upgrad...

$50 a piece takes them. Tired of moving them.

New = $135 each at Jamestown.

I'm a fan of bare teak on exterior with a coat of teak oil in the spring. It's easy, simple and look goods. On the interior of the boards I follow the scheme set by the grab rails etc... If varnished that's what I do, if bare I leave the inside of boards bare. I would not use cetol on interior. It w...

Jeff - I actually thought about that approach, but still need a surface to bond the new fiberglass to the original structure. I don't want to wrap the glass into the hole as there is already a complex joint in there (inner to outer skin) and not a lot of excess clearance for the mast. Also, this boa...

I had a delamination around the mast and cut it open this morning. I removed all of the wet balsa and now have a 3 in. lip around the hole. I need the 3 in. lip to feather in the repair. Any hints on how to slide the balsa in and make sure there are no voids, while avoiding any overheated epoxy issu...

New price - $65 a piece/$260 for all