re-coring question

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swhfire21
Posts: 207
Joined: Aug 25th, '12, 08:08

re-coring question

Post by swhfire21 »

I had a delamination around the mast and cut it open this morning. I removed all of the wet balsa and now have a 3 in. lip around the hole. I need the 3 in. lip to feather in the repair.

Any hints on how to slide the balsa in and make sure there are no voids, while avoiding any overheated epoxy issues.

Thanks,
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Steve
Pleasant Journey, Morgan 35
Previously:
'85 CD 26, Hull No. 30
'74 Typhoon Hull No. 789
Great Bay/Little Egg Harbor, NJ
Jeff and Sarah
Posts: 437
Joined: Aug 25th, '09, 17:03
Location: CD33 "Prerequisite" / CD28 Flybridge Trawler "Toboggan"; Annapolis, MD

Re: re-coring question

Post by Jeff and Sarah »

Why not cut out that fiberglass that you left around the mast and just lay a full sheet over your new core? You could easily cut out the mast hole afterwards with any number of tools.

Perhaps there is a complicating issue that isn't clear in the photo.
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Markst95
Posts: 628
Joined: Aug 5th, '08, 10:04
Location: 1972 Typhoon Weekender "SWIFT" Hull #289 Narragansett Bay, RI

Re: re-coring question

Post by Markst95 »

Cut the balsa out to as close as filling the space as possible. You will have to do it in sections. Wet out the whole area with unthickened epoxy first then use epoxy/ colloidal silica mixed to jelly consistancy and spread out in a area putting some on the balsa edges as you work. Use enough to let the epoxy squish between the gaps. After an hour or so fill in any voids and start laying up the glass on top. You should have all the edges feathered beforehand. You should remove the hinges on the hatch to give you enough room to feather there as well. Put some tape underneath the screw holes to keep the epoxy from oozing through.
swhfire21
Posts: 207
Joined: Aug 25th, '12, 08:08

Re: re-coring question

Post by swhfire21 »

Jeff - I actually thought about that approach, but still need a surface to bond the new fiberglass to the original structure. I don't want to wrap the glass into the hole as there is already a complex joint in there (inner to outer skin) and not a lot of excess clearance for the mast. Also, this boat has no head liner, so whatever I do on the underside of the deck is visible in the cabin.

Mark - I was leaning towards you approach. I'm trying to figure out how the hatch hinges are fastened as there are no through bolts. In order to keep things dry as possible I'm going to pull the hinges last thing. This way if the hinges are not fastened to a tapped metal plate (adhered to the hull) or tapped epoxy plug I can at least get into the space from the core repair area to fix them.

Thanks
Steve
Pleasant Journey, Morgan 35
Previously:
'85 CD 26, Hull No. 30
'74 Typhoon Hull No. 789
Great Bay/Little Egg Harbor, NJ
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jbenagh
Posts: 868
Joined: Sep 15th, '07, 21:02
Location: CD30 "Christine C"
Salem, MA

Re: re-coring question

Post by jbenagh »

You are going to need to grind a 1.5 inch bevel around the edge of the existing glass. I think you will need to remove the hinges to do that. If you do grind the mast step away, the new glass should provide all the strength of the existing structure.

In my cockpit sole I found it a lot easier to just lay new glass on top rather than reuse the piece I cut out.

Jeff
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tjr818
Posts: 1851
Joined: Oct 13th, '07, 13:42
Location: Previously owned 1980 CD 27 Slainte, Hull #185. NO.1257949

Re: re-coring question

Post by tjr818 »

I have often wondered if there isn't some kind of spray foam that could be used to fill some of those areas between the top skin and the bottom skin. Something dense enough that would not expand with too much pressure. :?: :?: :?:
Tim
Nonsuch 26 Ultra,
Previously, Sláinte a CD27
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