The Cape Dory Board

Before you buy give Charter Lakes a call. Very flexible, incredibly responsive when you have a claim, and reasonably priced. I just insured my 25D for $15,000 agreed value and a very comprehensive liability and salvage policy for under $500. It is US only, but that at my request since I had no plans...

I have done business with Boulter once - extremely satisfied. They shipped me a beautiful piece of teak, cut to order for a coaming replacement, at a very reasonable price. It came very quickly and was exactly what I ordered. I am looking for some additional materials and they will be my first call....

The actual replacement parts for that light assembly are GE#70 (deck light replacement tube) and GE#90 (the 1152 look alike). The 1152 fits the socket and will work, but it is not original equipment. There are also other less costly replacements for the tube for the deck light. I have no idea what t...

Just bought a couple, but they are not cheap.

Anyone know if these are some sort of special (marine, long life?) bulb that makes rig-rite want to charge such outrageous prices for a $2 bulb or is it just greed?

Rick

For the cost of material ($120.00 from Boulter Plywood) it is a really easy job to do yourself. A jigsaw, drill, a good coarse file and some sandpaper it is quite easy. Just remove the old and use it for a template to rough cut with a jigsaw and drill the holes. Shape with a file and then sand to fi...

I had to remove my Dynaplate and am looking for a source for the recommended gold plated bronze bolt for fastening. Does anyone know of a source for a single, gold plated bolt? I'd rather not have to spend the money (man are these expensive!) for lack of a bolt. If I can't find one, how much am I co...

I attempted to remove my propeller last spring with a borrowed prop puller and after working on it for quite awhile gave up - it was not important, I just wanted to try a different pitch prop (the original) I have laying around. Last fall I gave it another go when the boat was pulled with the same r...

I think I have seen this referred to as the Dynaplate in the archives?

I have a recently posted thread asking whether anyone has ever had to re-bed this plate and if so, how was it done? Don't mean to hijack your thread but was wondering if anyone has any experience?

Rick

Over winter I had a minor diesel leak - a leaky fuel filter. It was a small leak and has been fixed with a new racor filter and the minor spill cleaned up. I noticed a problem though as a result and am not sure what to make of it. There is an "oil stain" around the grounding plate on the o...

With a mainsheet attachment at the end of the boom how are the stresses exerted by a loose footed main different? Here are my thoughts. The majority of the force is still exerted between the tack and the clew and is mostly compression - in the x axis inward towards the center along the length of the...

I did a couple of test pieces mid summer last year - tiller and hatch boards. I really liked the look. After a month of weathering it still looked like the day I oiled it so I did the rest of my exterior teak this fall. I left the test pieces out for the winter so I am coming up on 8 months and it s...

I recently ordered a new main for my 25D and decided to go with a loose foot. I have never had a proper outhaul on the boom, and so certainly do not have anything adequate to deal with a loose foot. What are others doing in this case? It would seem that there will be a tremendous amount of stress on...

I have not finished all of my brightwork but found time to do my tiller and hatch covers. I rough sanded, cleaned with teak cleaner and brightener (my teak was badly weathered and gray). I applied two coats of teaqua 2 months ago. Application is very simple. I suspect if I did all of my external tea...

To get back to the toe-rail issue. I have been unable to turn the screws out that hold the old smashed toe rail in place. I'm thinking the screws were probably fiberglassed or epoxied in place similar to the rub rail issue, (Another "permanent" repair by the P.O). I have tried a big slott...

Thanks Russell, a couple of comments and questions for you or others with experience. - I will probably just cut a 45 degree angle at the original scarf. If I cut at 60 degrees in the same area as the original scarf it will follow the original cut and leave a thin layer of wood - I am concerned abou...