It's Almost Spring...time to talk about Finishes!!!
Moderator: Jim Walsh
- Clay Stalker
- Posts: 390
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 12:07
- Location: 17' Town Class Sloop
It's Almost Spring...time to talk about Finishes!!!
Yankee Lady is covered with a combination of old varnish and old Cetol....most of it tired and in need of coming off. On past boats, I have used Armada, varnish, Cetol, and various oils. I did like the look of Armada, but it takes forever to dry, so not good here in the Northeast, where good spring weather is at a premium. Cetol looks great in the early years, is easy to apply and durable, but I just could not get past that "muddy" look that seems to occur down the road no matter what you do. Varnish is very nice, but takes too many coats to look it's best, and is high maintenance. I would rather be sailing. So this trip I am going with Aqua-strip for removal, and plan to try this Teaqua. I have read all the past posts, so now would be interested in hearing from folks that are using it how it's going. Many thanks.
Clay Stalker
Westmoreland, NH and Spofford Lake, NH
Westmoreland, NH and Spofford Lake, NH
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- Posts: 901
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:29
- Location: Dream Weaver, CD25D, Noank, CT
Clay,
I used Aqua Strip last spring....give it plenty of time to do its work and use multiple applications. Good news is it doesn't damage the glass. Bad news is its not as agressive as regular chemical removers. For stubborn areas use regular chemical stripper and tape and protect. Heat gun also works great especially with a lot of old build up. A good quality scrapper also works wonders.
I thought about Teaqua and decided to go with Epiphanes High Gloss. I am quite satisfied with it. Big advantage is you don't have to sand between coates. This spring I will build final coats up with regular Epiphanes varnish.
The endless search for the best look long-lasting look with the least amount of work. You have the same problem as I do - quite a drive to the boat. Varnishing would be a breeze if only she were outside your kitchen door.
Good luck.
Dick
I used Aqua Strip last spring....give it plenty of time to do its work and use multiple applications. Good news is it doesn't damage the glass. Bad news is its not as agressive as regular chemical removers. For stubborn areas use regular chemical stripper and tape and protect. Heat gun also works great especially with a lot of old build up. A good quality scrapper also works wonders.
I thought about Teaqua and decided to go with Epiphanes High Gloss. I am quite satisfied with it. Big advantage is you don't have to sand between coates. This spring I will build final coats up with regular Epiphanes varnish.
The endless search for the best look long-lasting look with the least amount of work. You have the same problem as I do - quite a drive to the boat. Varnishing would be a breeze if only she were outside your kitchen door.
Good luck.
Dick
- bhartley
- Posts: 449
- Joined: Aug 23rd, '05, 09:26
- Location: Sea Sprite #527 "Ariel"
CD25D #184 "Pyxis"
CDSOA Member #785
Tequa
Clay,
We have our annual Oil vs. something else argument at our house. One boat has had oil and Semco Sealer neither of which made us both happy. One has Cetol which I like, but hubby hates (but tolerates).
I bought a can of Tequa last summer and coated the top of a formerly nice indoor teak table. The table has been outside all winter and still looks wonderful. It has the look of just clean & just oiled teak without the mold problem (at least so far). After 9 months it still looks the same as day 1.
We're going with Teaqua on Pyxis. She currently has no finish at all so that does simplify the prep.
Hope that helps a little,
Bly
We have our annual Oil vs. something else argument at our house. One boat has had oil and Semco Sealer neither of which made us both happy. One has Cetol which I like, but hubby hates (but tolerates).
I bought a can of Tequa last summer and coated the top of a formerly nice indoor teak table. The table has been outside all winter and still looks wonderful. It has the look of just clean & just oiled teak without the mold problem (at least so far). After 9 months it still looks the same as day 1.
We're going with Teaqua on Pyxis. She currently has no finish at all so that does simplify the prep.
Hope that helps a little,
Bly
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- Posts: 51
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:21
- Location: Cape Dory 25D - New York Lady
Hull #169
Provincetown, MA
I like the teaqua
I did a couple of test pieces mid summer last year - tiller and hatch boards. I really liked the look. After a month of weathering it still looked like the day I oiled it so I did the rest of my exterior teak this fall. I left the test pieces out for the winter so I am coming up on 8 months and it still looks like the day I oiled it.
I am going to reapply this spring but I am not even sure it will be required. I am a satisfied customer. Extremely easy to apply, nice look and very durable.
Rick
I am going to reapply this spring but I am not even sure it will be required. I am a satisfied customer. Extremely easy to apply, nice look and very durable.
Rick
Good product, but expectations set a little high.
The search for the silver bullet product didn't work out so well for me. I stripped down some of my teak last spring (the amount I had time for) and applied Teaqua. I read all about how long it would last. I put two coats on, letting the coats soak in for 10-15 minutes before wiping down. I like the way it applies as it is thicker than a regular oil so there are less worries about running, etc. Be careful with drips, however. Wipe them up immediately as it will harden.
2 months later, I was putting on a new coat. Then 2 months after that. Right now, it looks like it needs a coat.
Maybe it doesn't really need a coat and the fading is just what it does. The teak isn't silvering, but it doesn't have the rich, deep color as it did just after applied. I think Teaqua does last longer than regular oils do, but not as well as advertised. That's O.K. for me. I'll probably keep using it because oiling is less risky than varnish. Once you build the varnish, it is not so hard of work to keep it maintained. I have a guy across from me at the marina with an old wood boat he leave uncovered. He comes out and puts on a coat of varnish every year. Takes about 6 hours. Done for the season. The boat looks impeccable and has for years with no special effort. But my experience with varnish is there is a window of time when you need to refresh varnish before it starts to craze. If you don't maintain it at the right time that it needs it, you'll get into trouble and then you'll be back to needing major surgery. Oil is more forgiving that way. If I fail to maintain it because I'm busy building a deck instead, then going on vacation, etc, when I return, no stripping and rebuilding coats is needed. Just scrub, allow to dry, reapply.
BTW, I'm in the Great NW. While the boat is in the water year round and uncovered, I don't consider this as hostile an environment as many places in the country where the manufacturer says you can expect bullet proof, flame retardant, nuclear explosion resistant results.
Rperlot
CD28
2 months later, I was putting on a new coat. Then 2 months after that. Right now, it looks like it needs a coat.
Maybe it doesn't really need a coat and the fading is just what it does. The teak isn't silvering, but it doesn't have the rich, deep color as it did just after applied. I think Teaqua does last longer than regular oils do, but not as well as advertised. That's O.K. for me. I'll probably keep using it because oiling is less risky than varnish. Once you build the varnish, it is not so hard of work to keep it maintained. I have a guy across from me at the marina with an old wood boat he leave uncovered. He comes out and puts on a coat of varnish every year. Takes about 6 hours. Done for the season. The boat looks impeccable and has for years with no special effort. But my experience with varnish is there is a window of time when you need to refresh varnish before it starts to craze. If you don't maintain it at the right time that it needs it, you'll get into trouble and then you'll be back to needing major surgery. Oil is more forgiving that way. If I fail to maintain it because I'm busy building a deck instead, then going on vacation, etc, when I return, no stripping and rebuilding coats is needed. Just scrub, allow to dry, reapply.
BTW, I'm in the Great NW. While the boat is in the water year round and uncovered, I don't consider this as hostile an environment as many places in the country where the manufacturer says you can expect bullet proof, flame retardant, nuclear explosion resistant results.
Rperlot
CD28
Detco Crystal?
Does anyone have any experience using Detco Crystal Varnish?
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- Posts: 180
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 22:01
- Location: Cape Dory 27
Clay:
We are going to re-do Remedy with Teaqua this spring, and will probably strip off the old Cetol with Aqua-strip or Ready-Strip as well.
I bought a quart of Teaqua last fall and did an old tiller as a test piece. it went on easy as can be, and looks great. I never got around to putting the sample out in the weather, but we are committed nevertheless.
We are going to re-do Remedy with Teaqua this spring, and will probably strip off the old Cetol with Aqua-strip or Ready-Strip as well.
I bought a quart of Teaqua last fall and did an old tiller as a test piece. it went on easy as can be, and looks great. I never got around to putting the sample out in the weather, but we are committed nevertheless.
Duncan Maio
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
s/v Remedy
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI
teaqua
I too applied teaqua and so far so good. It's been 9 months on Seraph's teak, 12 months on patio furniture.
http://www.teaqua.com
http://www.teaqua.com
Randy 25D Seraph #161
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- Posts: 901
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 10:29
- Location: Dream Weaver, CD25D, Noank, CT
Texas Sun
If it holds up to the Texas sun it ought to do real well where Clay lurks. Dick