restoration help needed

[Adam Zazzera]

I have a CD10 that I have stripped and sanded all the wood on. Im about ready to give it the finnal sanding with 220 and varnish. The wood however is old and its grain has separated moderatly. First question is can I close it with some kind of sealer and if so what type? secondly is varnishe the way to go on this job or should I use something else. I olso have to replace the transom and the virtical peice for the back seat. What other than teek can I use that will hold up and look just as good. Any and all types of advise is welcome. If I can figure out how to put pictures on this computer thing ill send some out when Im done.



azazz@ix.netcom.com

[Richard G.]

Adam,
I have just completed refinishing the teak on my CD27. I have gotten some professional advice along the way, and the information that I have worked under is that you don't want to close the grain before sealing the teak with a first coat of varnish which should be fairly well diluted to allow it to penatrate the wood. Sand with 60-80 grit to open the grain to allow penatration. Follow with 6-8 coats of varnish sanding lightly between coats just to scratch the surface and allow the next coat to grab onto something. As you layer the varnish it will "flatten" the grain out as it fills everything in. Starts to look promissing after about third coat after sealer coat

I have a CD10 that I have stripped and sanded all the wood on. Im about ready to give it the finnal sanding with 220 and varnish. The wood however is old and its grain has separated moderatly. First question is can I close it with some kind of sealer and if so what type? secondly is varnishe the way to go on this job or should I use something else. I olso have to replace the transom and the virtical peice for the back seat. What other than teek can I use that will hold up and look just as good. Any and all types of advise is welcome. If I can figure out how to put pictures on this computer thing ill send some out when Im done.

[Rick Parish]

I am restoring a CD Typhoon and although I'm not to the teak work yet, I have been doing some reading. Two books I've read recommend almost the same proceedure. Sand the teak to bare teak with whatever grit it takes - 100 to 60. Once you are at bare wood, sand again with 150 to 120. Sand with no finer grit than 120. The varnish needs to get a grip so to speak. If the sanded teak is a uniform color you are in great shape. If it's blotchy consider a deep cleaning with Ajax or a teak bleach. Be careful. Back to sanding. After sanding with 150 or 120, lay on a first coat of varnish thinned about 25% to 50%. This is a sealer coat. After drying overnight sand lightly and lay on a 2nd coat thinned 20%. After drying overnignt sand lightly with 180 grit. Now put on layers of straight varnish sanding with 220 or bronze wool after each coat dries.

I have a CD10 that I have stripped and sanded all the wood on. Im about ready to give it the finnal sanding with 220 and varnish. The wood however is old and its grain has separated moderatly. First question is can I close it with some kind of sealer and if so what type? secondly is varnishe the way to go on this job or should I use something else. I olso have to replace the transom and the virtical peice for the back seat. What other than teek can I use that will hold up and look just as good. Any and all types of advise is welcome. If I can figure out how to put pictures on this computer thing ill send some out when Im done.

parish6@ibm.net

[Gary]

Adam,

Rather than using regular varnish and having to bother with six to eight coats plus sanding, consider using Cetol. Easier to work with, only three coats required and no sanding. Next year only one coat. I just used it on my 25D and the wood looks great.
Good luck,

Gary



garym@taxinvest.com

[Marion Lewenstein, Sasha]

I'm a Cetol user, too, on my Cape Dory 30, and have been entirely happy with it. It does, as advertised, last about nine months in California sunshine. Took the three coats mentioned, then one after that. Relatively easy to apply.
Marion

I have a CD10 that I have stripped and sanded all the wood on. Im about ready to give it the finnal sanding with 220 and varnish. The wood however is old and its grain has separated moderatly. First question is can I close it with some kind of sealer and if so what type? secondly is varnishe the way to go on this job or should I use something else. I olso have to replace the transom and the virtical peice for the back seat. What other than teek can I use that will hold up and look just as good. Any and all types of advise is welcome. If I can figure out how to put pictures on this computer thing ill send some out when Im done.

marlew@leland.stanford.edu

[Andrew Shepard]

I have just recently purchases a 1972 C10 that has it's brightwork varnished. I am intersted in refinishing as well. How did you remove your original finish? What was the original finish provided by CD? What is the wood used on the CD10 - teak or mahogany? Thanks



as16450@aol.com