I am in the process of refinishing the toe rail and rubstrake on Suzi Q. There is a spot on the starboard rubstrake about 4 inches long where the teak has been damaged. It is where two pieces of teak come together and a screw is partially exposed and the rail is a little loose there because the screws purchase is damaged.
I figure I can glue the rail and clamp it to take care of the looseness. My question is can anyone help with the best way to cosmetically repair the rubstrake wood so that it looks as good as possible without replacing it. Thanks in advance.
Will W.
Suzi Q
CD25
willwheatley@starpower.net
Rubstrake Repair
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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JimL
Re: Rubstrake Repair
Good evening Will! If you can pick up some teak (I think it's 3/4"), you can preshape a piece to scarf in. Your local hobby shop has the neatest little miter saws....very fine teeth and very skinny cut. These are cheap and make it easy to cut things just right. You'll probably want to cut an inner angle at one end, with matching outer angle at the other. That way the piece will lock in better, during repair. If you don't want to screw in the scarf, you could lock it with two little pieces of dowel instead. I think you'll be happier if you use mechanical locking....I haven't had great luck getting glues to hold on new teak (except, of course, when applied as fingerprints on an exposed, finish surface!)
leinfam@earthlink.net
leinfam@earthlink.net
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Dan VanWinkle
Re: Rubstrake Repair-I'm adding a bronze half-oval
Hi Will,
I have finally taken enough chucks of teak off the rail of my 25D. I'm getting 4-12ftx3/4in bronze "half-oval" from Bristol Brozne. Not that I'm all that bad a boat handler you understand. But some of the docks I've had to tie up to have had no protection what so ever. Fenders have a way of moving, especially when the water is rough and the only approach was from upwind. It's a little pricey but I think it will save a lot of labor in the future.
s/v Bali Ha'i CD25D #69
dwinvan@aol.com
I have finally taken enough chucks of teak off the rail of my 25D. I'm getting 4-12ftx3/4in bronze "half-oval" from Bristol Brozne. Not that I'm all that bad a boat handler you understand. But some of the docks I've had to tie up to have had no protection what so ever. Fenders have a way of moving, especially when the water is rough and the only approach was from upwind. It's a little pricey but I think it will save a lot of labor in the future.
s/v Bali Ha'i CD25D #69
Will W. wrote: I am in the process of refinishing the toe rail and rubstrake on Suzi Q. There is a spot on the starboard rubstrake about 4 inches long where the teak has been damaged. It is where two pieces of teak come together and a screw is partially exposed and the rail is a little loose there because the screws purchase is damaged.
I figure I can glue the rail and clamp it to take care of the looseness. My question is can anyone help with the best way to cosmetically repair the rubstrake wood so that it looks as good as possible without replacing it. Thanks in advance.
Will W.
Suzi Q
CD25
dwinvan@aol.com
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Robert
Re: Rubstrake Repair
Here's how I repaired some gouges and dings in the rubstrake on my CD28. I mixed some teak sanding dust that I had saved from some other projects with some West Systems two-part epoxy. I kept adding the teak dust particles until the mixture was a peanut butter consistency, then applied to a slightly higher level than the rubstrake.
After the epoxy had set, I washed off the amine blush (as per West instructions), sanded smooth and refinished. It's not Bristol but it looks very good, and it was much easier, I think, than replacing teak sections. If you don't have any teak sanding dust, it might pay to take some 80 grit sanding paper and sacrifice some teak scraps to make enough for the job.
Good Luck,
Robert s/v Zephyr CD28 #230
After the epoxy had set, I washed off the amine blush (as per West instructions), sanded smooth and refinished. It's not Bristol but it looks very good, and it was much easier, I think, than replacing teak sections. If you don't have any teak sanding dust, it might pay to take some 80 grit sanding paper and sacrifice some teak scraps to make enough for the job.
Good Luck,
Robert s/v Zephyr CD28 #230
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Ed Haley
Re: Rubstrake Repair
Will;
I did about the same as Robert on a gouged and split teak rail. At first, I glued the split with 5200 and then clamped the split for a few days (it was on the hard at the time). Then I mixed West Epoxy (2 part) with some silicon filler until it had the proper consistency for filling gouges without running. Then I added an oil-based stain so that it matched the color of the wood. I didn't add much, just enough to give the fill the same color as the lightest shade of wood on my rail. Don't add more than about 5% or the epoxy won't harden. In some spots where the fill was shallow, I pre-drilled a few 1/8 inch holes so it would accept a bit of epoxy.
After I filled the spot with the mixture, I smoothed it out with wax paper so the fill was just above the wood surface. Then I applied some streaks using commonly available stain pens in a fashion that looked good (whatever that means). After streaking, I placed wax paper over the spot and smoothed it flat with a flat piece of wood. Let it set 24 hours or longer if it's cold.
The repair is really not that noticeable, except to me of course.
Have fun.
Ed Haley
Captain, S/V Mokita
CD330 #1
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
I did about the same as Robert on a gouged and split teak rail. At first, I glued the split with 5200 and then clamped the split for a few days (it was on the hard at the time). Then I mixed West Epoxy (2 part) with some silicon filler until it had the proper consistency for filling gouges without running. Then I added an oil-based stain so that it matched the color of the wood. I didn't add much, just enough to give the fill the same color as the lightest shade of wood on my rail. Don't add more than about 5% or the epoxy won't harden. In some spots where the fill was shallow, I pre-drilled a few 1/8 inch holes so it would accept a bit of epoxy.
After I filled the spot with the mixture, I smoothed it out with wax paper so the fill was just above the wood surface. Then I applied some streaks using commonly available stain pens in a fashion that looked good (whatever that means). After streaking, I placed wax paper over the spot and smoothed it flat with a flat piece of wood. Let it set 24 hours or longer if it's cold.
The repair is really not that noticeable, except to me of course.
Have fun.
Ed Haley
Captain, S/V Mokita
CD330 #1
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
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Will W.
Re: Rubstrake Repair-I'm adding a bronze half-oval
Hi Dan
I would like to see pictures when you are done. I was going to replace them in a few years because this year there is no time. I just want to patch it up until that time but it would be good to see yours when you finish.
If you have taken photos of the process and you are willing to share, there has been talk of putting together a CD repair web site. Larry has graciously offered some site space and I am going to give pics. and comment on replaceing the core of the cockpit floor when I am done.
Thanks for your reply even if you don't have pictures. I had not thought of going with another material so it raises some possibilities.
Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25
willwheatley@starpower.net
I would like to see pictures when you are done. I was going to replace them in a few years because this year there is no time. I just want to patch it up until that time but it would be good to see yours when you finish.
If you have taken photos of the process and you are willing to share, there has been talk of putting together a CD repair web site. Larry has graciously offered some site space and I am going to give pics. and comment on replaceing the core of the cockpit floor when I am done.
Thanks for your reply even if you don't have pictures. I had not thought of going with another material so it raises some possibilities.
Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25
Dan VanWinkle wrote: Hi Will,
I have finally taken enough chucks of teak off the rail of my 25D. I'm getting 4-12ftx3/4in bronze "half-oval" from Bristol Brozne. Not that I'm all that bad a boat handler you understand. But some of the docks I've had to tie up to have had no protection what so ever. Fenders have a way of moving, especially when the water is rough and the only approach was from upwind. It's a little pricey but I think it will save a lot of labor in the future.
s/v Bali Ha'i CD25D #69
Will W. wrote: I am in the process of refinishing the toe rail and rubstrake on Suzi Q. There is a spot on the starboard rubstrake about 4 inches long where the teak has been damaged. It is where two pieces of teak come together and a screw is partially exposed and the rail is a little loose there because the screws purchase is damaged.
I figure I can glue the rail and clamp it to take care of the looseness. My question is can anyone help with the best way to cosmetically repair the rubstrake wood so that it looks as good as possible without replacing it. Thanks in advance.
Will W.
Suzi Q
CD25
willwheatley@starpower.net