John R - Helmsman's Seat
Moderator: Jim Walsh
John R - Helmsman's Seat
To John R
In the discussion about cockpit padeyes, you mentioned a teak helmsman's seat for your boat that bridges across the settees. I am trying to come up with a good design for a helmsman's seat for my CD30 Cutter and would appreciate some more information about yours. I have thought about this design, but was concerned about stowing it. Your critique would be appreciated and of value to others as well.
Thank you,
Carl Jones
s/v Spanish Eyes, CD30, Gulf Coast Fleet
GreatCells@aol.com
In the discussion about cockpit padeyes, you mentioned a teak helmsman's seat for your boat that bridges across the settees. I am trying to come up with a good design for a helmsman's seat for my CD30 Cutter and would appreciate some more information about yours. I have thought about this design, but was concerned about stowing it. Your critique would be appreciated and of value to others as well.
Thank you,
Carl Jones
s/v Spanish Eyes, CD30, Gulf Coast Fleet
GreatCells@aol.com
Re: John R - Helmsman's Seat
I too would be interested in others plans if they have constructed such a thing. I have seen two different ones on peoples boats. one was a molded fiberglass job with storage inside and the other was a slight arch with what looked like teak slats. If anyone has taken the time to draw up plans could you pass them on. I like sitting to weather myself but when motoring sitting right behind the wheel and raised up is the place
Chris
cccobx@prodigy.net
Chris
cccobx@prodigy.net
Re: John R - Helmsman's Seat
Carl -
On my CD36, I built a teak locker on the rear seat that stretches from coaming to coaming. It is about 7 inches deep and is subdivided into three compartments. The lid is cambered so that the helmsman's center position is raised about 9 inches. The center compartment houses an 11# propane tank, solenoid and regulator. The side compartments provide storage for odds and ends. Room for the propane tank was obtained by cutting a hole in the original seat in order to drop a 12 inch PVC pipe section (capped at the bottom end) into the lazarette below. The pipe is epoxied to the seat and supported by a fabricated aluminum bracket at the bottom. The propane tank fits nicely into the well created by the PVC pipe. There's an overboard discharge from the bottom of the well to vent any escaping propane overboard.
I'm not sure how the CD30 arrangement differs from the CD36, but if you find any useful suggestions in the above description, send an e-mail and I'll send some of the construction details. Besides the stowage features, it has been a great helmsman's seat.
Allen Evans
Whisper, CD36, Chesapeake Fleet
adevans@worldnet.att.net
On my CD36, I built a teak locker on the rear seat that stretches from coaming to coaming. It is about 7 inches deep and is subdivided into three compartments. The lid is cambered so that the helmsman's center position is raised about 9 inches. The center compartment houses an 11# propane tank, solenoid and regulator. The side compartments provide storage for odds and ends. Room for the propane tank was obtained by cutting a hole in the original seat in order to drop a 12 inch PVC pipe section (capped at the bottom end) into the lazarette below. The pipe is epoxied to the seat and supported by a fabricated aluminum bracket at the bottom. The propane tank fits nicely into the well created by the PVC pipe. There's an overboard discharge from the bottom of the well to vent any escaping propane overboard.
I'm not sure how the CD30 arrangement differs from the CD36, but if you find any useful suggestions in the above description, send an e-mail and I'll send some of the construction details. Besides the stowage features, it has been a great helmsman's seat.
Allen Evans
Whisper, CD36, Chesapeake Fleet
adevans@worldnet.att.net
Re: John R - Helmsman's Seat
Carl,
My helmsmans seat is made of 3/4" teak. It is a radiused design athwartships. The seating area is slatted with seperate 3/4" thick x 1.25" wide x 10" deep teak slats. The seating surface is about 10" high at the apex of the radius which puts it on the boats centerline and about 9" higher then the cockpit setee height. At each end of the seat the seating surface is about 5.5" above the cockpit setee top surface. Between each teak slat that makes up the seating surface there is a 1/8" gap.
The slated seat components are mounted to a solid teak front and rear riser in the shape of an arch which makes up the seat base and it is made of 3/4" teak also. The front seat face riser has an opening cut into it for storage inside the seat base. The back riser is solid. There is also a bottom and two ends. Those components create an enclosed seat base with a front access opening for storage. This entire assembly stradles across the width of the cockpit footwell and sits on the edge of each setee. There are notches cut into the ends of the front and back risers so that it locks between the two setees. You need to use slide bolts or similar to truly lock it in position. In calm weather you don't need anything more then the notches, they keep it in position. I have a Sunbrella cushion that snaps onto the seat for additional comfort. It is a very traditional and attractive design. It functions very well and has proven it's worth over the years. It can be stored in a cockpit locker or in the cabin.
I hope this description is of some help to you.
My helmsmans seat is made of 3/4" teak. It is a radiused design athwartships. The seating area is slatted with seperate 3/4" thick x 1.25" wide x 10" deep teak slats. The seating surface is about 10" high at the apex of the radius which puts it on the boats centerline and about 9" higher then the cockpit setee height. At each end of the seat the seating surface is about 5.5" above the cockpit setee top surface. Between each teak slat that makes up the seating surface there is a 1/8" gap.
The slated seat components are mounted to a solid teak front and rear riser in the shape of an arch which makes up the seat base and it is made of 3/4" teak also. The front seat face riser has an opening cut into it for storage inside the seat base. The back riser is solid. There is also a bottom and two ends. Those components create an enclosed seat base with a front access opening for storage. This entire assembly stradles across the width of the cockpit footwell and sits on the edge of each setee. There are notches cut into the ends of the front and back risers so that it locks between the two setees. You need to use slide bolts or similar to truly lock it in position. In calm weather you don't need anything more then the notches, they keep it in position. I have a Sunbrella cushion that snaps onto the seat for additional comfort. It is a very traditional and attractive design. It functions very well and has proven it's worth over the years. It can be stored in a cockpit locker or in the cabin.
I hope this description is of some help to you.
Carl Jones wrote: To John R
In the discussion about cockpit padeyes, you mentioned a teak helmsman's seat for your boat that bridges across the settees. I am trying to come up with a good design for a helmsman's seat for my CD30 Cutter and would appreciate some more information about yours. I have thought about this design, but was concerned about stowing it. Your critique would be appreciated and of value to others as well.
Thank you,
Carl Jones
s/v Spanish Eyes, CD30, Gulf Coast Fleet
Re: John R - Helmsman's Seat
If I can get some free time in the next few days I will see if I can draw up some plans based on my seat and e-mail a copy to whoever is interested. If interested post a need with your e-mail address.
Chris Cram wrote: I too would be interested in others plans if they have constructed such a thing. I have seen two different ones on peoples boats. one was a molded fiberglass job with storage inside and the other was a slight arch with what looked like teak slats. If anyone has taken the time to draw up plans could you pass them on. I like sitting to weather myself but when motoring sitting right behind the wheel and raised up is the place
Chris
Hi John R, does it look like this ????
I bought this kit, and It works well on my CD31 because I have the t-shaped cockpit with an athwartships seat/locker. I used Bristol Finish on it.John R. wrote: but modified to drop down into the well between p&s seats?
John
s/v Aimless
Work out well?
Hi John,
Did you purchase, and if you did, are you fairly satisfied with this?
Fair Winds,
Leo
macdoreNOSPAM@aol.com
Did you purchase, and if you did, are you fairly satisfied with this?
Fair Winds,
Leo
macdoreNOSPAM@aol.com
Teakflex Helm Seat Kit
Yes, I bought one in '98. The kit was very easy to assemble, and included everything except epoxy and finish. It's raw Teak, good quality. Took about an hour to assemble and glue up. Comes w/ ss screws and teak bungs for the predrilled holes. you don't even need to sand. I paid something like $99.00 for the kit then. I don't think you could buy the teak and do it yourself for much less. Any way the fit and finish are much better than I could ever achieve - even if I had Norm Abrams shop to play in (which I don't !!!)Leo MacDonald wrote: Hi Leo,
The only thing I did not like about the design was the cleat system to hold it in place. The kit cimes with wood cleats that you attach to your cockpit seat. The helm seat drops over them and stays in place. You could easily devise some other method of securing it to the seat during use. I installed them anyway, and now it does not seem so bad.
I have found that out on the hook, my favorite spot is relaxing on a cushion in the crook formed by the helm seat and the coamings. Sort of like a lounge chair. Buffet tunes going and libation parked on the aft deck. Doesn't get much better than that...

I finished mine with Bristol Finish. I am growing increasingly dissatisfied with that product. I am seeing adhesion failures from these urethane finishes when they are applied directly over raw teak. I was extremely careful to follow directions, but the stuff is lifting off. I think it is absolutely imperative to use an epoxy sealer FIRST when using these products. The mfg says not necessary. I think they are wrong. Awlgrip Clear (also an isocyanate) has adhesion failures too on raw Teak. (actually Honey Teak uses a two step process, and the first step is an epoxy....hmmmm, guess they figured something out. Smith & Co., winners of the Practical Sailor test use an epoxy first then a Urethane)
Anyway if I had it to do over again I'd use a Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer, then Epiphanes Varnish. I remove the seat and stow below so no probs. with uv and weathering.....
In summary, it's a good product. The folks at Teakflex were easy to deal with. You can do the entire project in a weekend (with a quick drying finish)
John
s/v Aimless
Re: John R - Helmsman's Seat
John,John R. wrote: If I can get some free time in the next few days I will see if I can draw up some plans based on my seat and e-mail a copy to whoever is interested. If interested post a need with your e-mail address.
Chris Cram wrote: I too would be interested in others plans if they have constructed such a thing. I have seen two different ones on peoples boats. one was a molded fiberglass job with storage inside and the other was a slight arch with what looked like teak slats. If anyone has taken the time to draw up plans could you pass them on. I like sitting to weather myself but when motoring sitting right behind the wheel and raised up is the place
Chris
Thanks for the reply and I would be interested in a set of plans. I don't know how tall you are but I am 5'10". Does the height of your seat allow easy viewing over the cabin top when motoring and sitting directly behind the wheel? That's when I need it the most. When she's heeled over 15-20 degrees, I can see fine from the cockpit seats. Thanks for your time.
Carl Jones
s/v Spanish Eyes
GreatCells@aol.com
Re: Hi John R, does it look like this ????
Hi John!
Yep it sure does look a lot like it (sister seat) except my ends extend over the setees by about an inch or so. I guess I should have put the seat into production after seeing what someone else has done. Oh well.
Yep it sure does look a lot like it (sister seat) except my ends extend over the setees by about an inch or so. I guess I should have put the seat into production after seeing what someone else has done. Oh well.
John Nuttall wrote:I bought this kit, and It works well on my CD31 because I have the t-shaped cockpit with an athwartships seat/locker. I used Bristol Finish on it.John R. wrote: but modified to drop down into the well between p&s seats?
John
s/v Aimless
Re: Work out well?
Yes Leo, I drew it up and built it about 8 years ago. I think it works quite well in the small cockpit of the CD30. Of course mine has a 10" depth to the seat area but that could be narrowed to gain more room between the wheel and the face of the seat. There is a big visibilty gain when using the seat. It does make it difficult to see the engine instrument panel at times. Always a compromise eh?
Leo MacDonald wrote: Hi John,
Did you purchase, and if you did, are you fairly satisfied with this?
Fair Winds,
Leo
Re: John R - Helmsman's Seat
Carl,
The picture at the website that John Nuttall linked to is almost a sister to the seat I built. You can use that picture as a general guide. If you still think you need some basic plans then please post another message and I'll sketch some up for you.
To answer your question: I am about 5'8" - 5'9". I can see quite well when sitting at the peak of the seat. It is a big help. We are talking about ten inches higher then the cockpit seats. It would be similar to sitting atop the teak coaming except the seat is even higher. Make the seat as high or low as you need it. Too much height and it will look odd though.
The picture at the website that John Nuttall linked to is almost a sister to the seat I built. You can use that picture as a general guide. If you still think you need some basic plans then please post another message and I'll sketch some up for you.
To answer your question: I am about 5'8" - 5'9". I can see quite well when sitting at the peak of the seat. It is a big help. We are talking about ten inches higher then the cockpit seats. It would be similar to sitting atop the teak coaming except the seat is even higher. Make the seat as high or low as you need it. Too much height and it will look odd though.
Carl Jones wrote:John R. wrote: If I can get some free time in the next few days I will see if I can draw up some plans based on my seat and e-mail a copy to whoever is interested. If interested post a need with your e-mail address.
John,John R. wrote:Chris Cram wrote: I too would be interested in others plans if they have constructed such a thing. I have seen two different ones on peoples boats. one was a molded fiberglass job with storage inside and the other was a slight arch with what looked like teak slats. If anyone has taken the time to draw up plans could you pass them on. I like sitting to weather myself but when motoring sitting right behind the wheel and raised up is the place
Chris
Thanks for the reply and I would be interested in a set of plans. I don't know how tall you are but I am 5'10". Does the height of your seat allow easy viewing over the cabin top when motoring and sitting directly behind the wheel? That's when I need it the most. When she's heeled over 15-20 degrees, I can see fine from the cockpit seats. Thanks for your time.
Carl Jones
s/v Spanish Eyes