Quick Question, Is the mast on a CD 36 Keel or deck stepped? Also has there been reports of deck joint leaks/problems on the pre-1982 CD 36's with the steel/glass chainplate base web assembly?
Thanks,
Paul Danicic
MPLS MN
nyeme001@tc.umn.edu
CD 36 Mast-Keel or Deck Stepped
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Patrick Turner
Re: CD 36 Mast-Keel or Deck Stepped
Paul,
The CD36 is Keel stepped. I own a 1979 CD36 (#2). I don't know if it's typical and I can't tell you with any certenty where the leaks are starting from, but our boat does have some leaks at the hull/deck joint. I am in the process...as we speak...of trying to find the scorce. One potential culprit is where the toe rail meets the deck. If that seam has degraded and water finds it's way under there....it comes out at the hull/deck joint. This always a potentional problem with wooden bulwarks or toe rails that sit right on the deck where water tends to collect. The real solution ...if that is the source...is to pull the toe rail and rebed it. I'm going to try something else first and if that doesn't work, I may commit to the former. I have rebedded the chain plates and so far am not able to determine if water is finding it's way in there....doesn't appear to be, but it's tricky to find sometimes. I am starting on rebedding the stanchion bases.
Feel free to email directly if you have any further questions.....
Pat
patrick.t@home.com
The CD36 is Keel stepped. I own a 1979 CD36 (#2). I don't know if it's typical and I can't tell you with any certenty where the leaks are starting from, but our boat does have some leaks at the hull/deck joint. I am in the process...as we speak...of trying to find the scorce. One potential culprit is where the toe rail meets the deck. If that seam has degraded and water finds it's way under there....it comes out at the hull/deck joint. This always a potentional problem with wooden bulwarks or toe rails that sit right on the deck where water tends to collect. The real solution ...if that is the source...is to pull the toe rail and rebed it. I'm going to try something else first and if that doesn't work, I may commit to the former. I have rebedded the chain plates and so far am not able to determine if water is finding it's way in there....doesn't appear to be, but it's tricky to find sometimes. I am starting on rebedding the stanchion bases.
Feel free to email directly if you have any further questions.....
Pat
patrick.t@home.com
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Mike
Leaks
Pat:
I'm also looking at the possible removal of my toerails this winter in an attempt to find similar leaks. When it rain, or I bury the rail, I take on about a cup of water.(one drip every 7-seconds.) I too suspect the hull/deck joint on my cd25d. The water seems to be leaking down behind the hull liner on it's trip to the bilge. Keep me posted on your repair progress.
"Misery loves company", and we may discover something that will save the other some repair time.
Thanks,
Mike
mwankum@tribune.com
I'm also looking at the possible removal of my toerails this winter in an attempt to find similar leaks. When it rain, or I bury the rail, I take on about a cup of water.(one drip every 7-seconds.) I too suspect the hull/deck joint on my cd25d. The water seems to be leaking down behind the hull liner on it's trip to the bilge. Keep me posted on your repair progress.
"Misery loves company", and we may discover something that will save the other some repair time.
Thanks,
Mike
mwankum@tribune.com
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Russell
One advantage to the pre-1981 CD 36 is ..
The early hulls of the CD 36 are built without a hull liner. It's pretty easy to spot signs of a leak, and trace it back to its source.
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SteveZ
Method for finding leaks
One method I have used to find boat leaks is to pressurize the interior of the boat with the output of a shop vac. Cut a piece of plywood to replace the hatch boards; use a hole saw to create a cutout to accept the hose from the shop vac. Close all openings on the boat; use tape,foam gaskets etc. in the boats interior to restrict airflow out of openings that cannot be completely closed off. Fire up the shop vac and go around squirting soapy water on all fittings to check for bubbles to find the source(s) of the leaks.