Recommendations for outboard for cd25

[Larry Smith]

I need a new outboard for my cd25 and am wondering
which new ones will fit in the lazerette. Any
help would be appreciated. Thanks.

- Larry



partner@shore.net

[Jim Stull]

I need a new outboard for my cd25 and am wondering
which new ones will fit in the lazerette. Any
help would be appreciated. Thanks.

- Larry

Larry
I have just finished installing a new Honda 8 HP 4 stroke engine in my CD25. (I suggest you look at Dana Arenius's webpage on this subject as I found it to be a great help.)
Although initially it looked to be a large problem to make it fit, ultimately it was fairly simple. Although heavy, I can lift the engine in and out of the well without too much trouble with my partner(wife) guiding the prop end. I made a couple of quick and dirty mock-up mounting boards before developing a simple one that I liked to position the motor in the well. The final dimensions of the mock-up were then reproduced in exterior plywood, laminated with and coated with West Epoxy. The origional board was discarded. I set the height of the mounting board such that the motor clamp screws clear the sill of the well opening. The change I had to make, on my boat, to the stainless steel angles that support the motor mounting board was only to relocate the top bolt. I pivoted these angles to a much more vertical angle and drilled a new top hole in each. I have added backing blocks inside the hull to better support these angles. (I found some wear elongation in the original holes.) The unused former top holes were also filled with the epoxy mixture.
The well cover will have to be raised a bit ( about 1/2 inch on my boat.).
I spoke to the Honda tech people about the "choking" problem due to the exaust fumes collecting in the well. They suggested cutting a hole in the black plastic insert in the motor cover and feeding fresh air direct. I am in the process of doing this as we speak (write?).
I placed a ring of WallMart modeling clay on top of the motor, closed the well cover and flattened the clay to obtain the dimension required for a gasket. I will cut a hole in the cover to match the hole in the motor and add a covered vent.
You will probably have to also modify or relocate the well drop board and track to clear the shift lever and control arm. Honda told me that the control arm can be temporarily removed fairly simply when dropping the motor in past the traveler and trim spanning the well opening. (I removed the traveler and trim assembly while working out the problem.) I found some damage to the mainsheet traveler ass'y and traveler mounting holes in my boat so am re-inforcing this area and have purchased a new Harken system designed for mid size boats. I will integrate the mounting supports for this system into the dropboard arrangement for my boat.
I realize this sound complicated but taken one step at a time it went OK. Overall the motor looks great in the boat. (Hope it works when we get it in the water!)
Jim



jtstull@icubed.com

[Larry Niles]

I need a new outboard for my cd25 and am wondering
which new ones will fit in the lazerette. Any
help would be appreciated. Thanks.

- Larry

Larry
I have just finished installing a new Honda 8 HP 4 stroke engine in my CD25. (I suggest you look at Dana Arenius's webpage on this subject as I found it to be a great help.)
Although initially it looked to be a large problem to make it fit, ultimately it was fairly simple. Although heavy, I can lift the engine in and out of the well without too much trouble with my partner(wife) guiding the prop end. I made a couple of quick and dirty mock-up mounting boards before developing a simple one that I liked to position the motor in the well. The final dimensions of the mock-up were then reproduced in exterior plywood, laminated with and coated with West Epoxy. The origional board was discarded. I set the height of the mounting board such that the motor clamp screws clear the sill of the well opening. The change I had to make, on my boat, to the stainless steel angles that support the motor mounting board was only to relocate the top bolt. I pivoted these angles to a much more vertical angle and drilled a new top hole in each. I have added backing blocks inside the hull to better support these angles. (I found some wear elongation in the original holes.) The unused former top holes were also filled with the epoxy mixture.
The well cover will have to be raised a bit ( about 1/2 inch on my boat.).
I spoke to the Honda tech people about the "choking" problem due to the exaust fumes collecting in the well. They suggested cutting a hole in the black plastic insert in the motor cover and feeding fresh air direct. I am in the process of doing this as we speak (write?).
I placed a ring of WallMart modeling clay on top of the motor, closed the well cover and flattened the clay to obtain the dimension required for a gasket. I will cut a hole in the cover to match the hole in the motor and add a covered vent.
You will probably have to also modify or relocate the well drop board and track to clear the shift lever and control arm. Honda told me that the control arm can be temporarily removed fairly simply when dropping the motor in past the traveler and trim spanning the well opening. (I removed the traveler and trim assembly while working out the problem.) I found some damage to the mainsheet traveler ass'y and traveler mounting holes in my boat so am re-inforcing this area and have purchased a new Harken system designed for mid size boats. I will integrate the mounting supports for this system into the dropboard arrangement for my boat.
I realize this sound complicated but taken one step at a time it went OK. Overall the motor looks great in the boat. (Hope it works when we get it in the water!)
Jim

I have a CD 26 with a honda 9.9 in the well. I removed the vent at the top of the engine cover and fitted a 3 in aluminum dryer vent hose vented into the deck vent. It works fairly well, except in following winds. It's too unreliable. I'm now trying to reconfigure my engine similarly to Dana A. in his webpage that has already been mentioned. He has a yamaha, I'm not sure if it works for a honda yet.



lniles@algorithms.com

[Jim Stull]

I need a new outboard for my cd25 and am wondering
which new ones will fit in the lazerette. Any
help would be appreciated. Thanks.

- Larry

Larry
I have just finished installing a new Honda 8 HP 4 stroke engine in my CD25. (I suggest you look at Dana Arenius's webpage on this subject as I found it to be a great help.)
Although initially it looked to be a large problem to make it fit, ultimately it was fairly simple. Although heavy, I can lift the engine in and out of the well without too much trouble with my partner(wife) guiding the prop end. I made a couple of quick and dirty mock-up mounting boards before developing a simple one that I liked to position the motor in the well. The final dimensions of the mock-up were then reproduced in exterior plywood, laminated with and coated with West Epoxy. The origional board was discarded. I set the height of the mounting board such that the motor clamp screws clear the sill of the well opening. The change I had to make, on my boat, to the stainless steel angles that support the motor mounting board was only to relocate the top bolt. I pivoted these angles to a much more vertical angle and drilled a new top hole in each. I have added backing blocks inside the hull to better support these angles. (I found some wear elongation in the original holes.) The unused former top holes were also filled with the epoxy mixture.
The well cover will have to be raised a bit ( about 1/2 inch on my boat.).
I spoke to the Honda tech people about the "choking" problem due to the exaust fumes collecting in the well. They suggested cutting a hole in the black plastic insert in the motor cover and feeding fresh air direct. I am in the process of doing this as we speak (write?).
I placed a ring of WallMart modeling clay on top of the motor, closed the well cover and flattened the clay to obtain the dimension required for a gasket. I will cut a hole in the cover to match the hole in the motor and add a covered vent.
You will probably have to also modify or relocate the well drop board and track to clear the shift lever and control arm. Honda told me that the control arm can be temporarily removed fairly simply when dropping the motor in past the traveler and trim spanning the well opening. (I removed the traveler and trim assembly while working out the problem.) I found some damage to the mainsheet traveler ass'y and traveler mounting holes in my boat so am re-inforcing this area and have purchased a new Harken system designed for mid size boats. I will integrate the mounting supports for this system into the dropboard arrangement for my boat.
I realize this sound complicated but taken one step at a time it went OK. Overall the motor looks great in the boat. (Hope it works when we get it in the water!)
Jim

I have a CD 26 with a honda 9.9 in the well. I removed the vent at the top of the engine cover and fitted a 3 in aluminum dryer vent hose vented into the deck vent. It works fairly well, except in following winds. It's too unreliable. I'm now trying to reconfigure my engine similarly to Dana A. in his webpage that has already been mentioned. He has a yamaha, I'm not sure if it works for a honda yet.

Larry
I spoke to the Honda tech people about Dana's solution.
They (unofficially) saw no problem tapping the exaust port and re-routing the exaust outside the well.
With my boat I can feed fresh air directly to the motor as the well cover fits tightly on the gasket. (Sort of like the old Pontiac Trans-Am with the shaker hood.) I may still add the exaust vents if proved required.
Jim



jtstull@icubed.com

[Larry Smith]

Larry
I have just finished installing a new Honda 8 HP 4 stroke engine in my CD25. (I suggest you look at Dana Arenius's webpage on this subject as I found it to be a great help.)
Although initially it looked to be a large problem to make it fit, ultimately it was fairly simple. Although heavy, I can lift the engine in and out of the well without too much trouble with my partner(wife) guiding the prop end. I made a couple of quick and dirty mock-up mounting boards before developing a simple one that I liked to position the motor in the well. The final dimensions of the mock-up were then reproduced in exterior plywood, laminated with and coated with West Epoxy. The origional board was discarded. I set the height of the mounting board such that the motor clamp screws clear the sill of the well opening. The change I had to make, on my boat, to the stainless steel angles that support the motor mounting board was only to relocate the top bolt. I pivoted these angles to a much more vertical angle and drilled a new top hole in each. I have added backing blocks inside the hull to better support these angles. (I found some wear elongation in the original holes.) The unused former top holes were also filled with the epoxy mixture.
The well cover will have to be raised a bit ( about 1/2 inch on my boat.).
I spoke to the Honda tech people about the "choking" problem due to the exaust fumes collecting in the well. They suggested cutting a hole in the black plastic insert in the motor cover and feeding fresh air direct. I am in the process of doing this as we speak (write?).
I placed a ring of WallMart modeling clay on top of the motor, closed the well cover and flattened the clay to obtain the dimension required for a gasket. I will cut a hole in the cover to match the hole in the motor and add a covered vent.
You will probably have to also modify or relocate the well drop board and track to clear the shift lever and control arm. Honda told me that the control arm can be temporarily removed fairly simply when dropping the motor in past the traveler and trim spanning the well opening. (I removed the traveler and trim assembly while working out the problem.) I found some damage to the mainsheet traveler ass'y and traveler mounting holes in my boat so am re-inforcing this area and have purchased a new Harken system designed for mid size boats. I will integrate the mounting supports for this system into the dropboard arrangement for my boat.
I realize this sound complicated but taken one step at a time it went OK. Overall the motor looks great in the boat. (Hope it works when we get it in the water!)
Jim

I have a CD 26 with a honda 9.9 in the well. I removed the vent at the top of the engine cover and fitted a 3 in aluminum dryer vent hose vented into the deck vent. It works fairly well, except in following winds. It's too unreliable. I'm now trying to reconfigure my engine similarly to Dana A. in his webpage that has already been mentioned. He has a yamaha, I'm not sure if it works for a honda yet.

Larry
I spoke to the Honda tech people about Dana's solution.
They (unofficially) saw no problem tapping the exaust port and re-routing the exaust outside the well.
With my boat I can feed fresh air directly to the motor as the well cover fits tightly on the gasket. (Sort of like the old Pontiac Trans-Am with the shaker hood.) I may still add the exaust vents if proved required.
Jim

Thanks to everyone for all the information. It really helps.
One question remains: what is the URL for Dana Arenius' web
page. It sounds very helpful.

- Larry



partner@shore.net

[Dana]

I need a new outboard for my cd25 and am wondering
which new ones will fit in the lazerette. Any
help would be appreciated. Thanks.

- Larry

________________________________________________________________

Larry,

A good starting point is my CD26 page.....just click below. Here you will find links to the CD22/22D, CD25D, and the Sea Sprite 23. Hope you enjoy. http://members.aol.com/darenius/CapeDory/CD26.html

Dana



darenius@aol.com

[Steve]

Thanks to everyone for all the information. It really helps.
One question remains: what is the URL for Dana Arenius' web
page. It sounds very helpful.

- Larry

Larry,
Look at the bottom of Dana's posting. The URL is listed there. Better yet, just click on the URL, it will take you there automatically. That Dana is quite a clever guy!

[Rod Morris]

I have a CD 26 with a honda 9.9 in the well. I removed the vent at the top of the engine cover and fitted a 3 in aluminum dryer vent hose vented into the deck vent. It works fairly well, except in following winds. It's too unreliable. I'm now trying to reconfigure my engine similarly to Dana A. in his webpage that has already been mentioned. He has a yamaha, I'm not sure if it works for a honda yet.

I have a CD26 with a Yamaha 9.9 four stroke. I raise the cover while idling around the docks, but I don't have any problem with the cover down when I get going.

Rod



RVRMorris@compuserve.com