Yamaha 9.9 problems

[Rich]

I'm using a Yamaha 9.9 on my CD26, the engine is 12 years old and has never given me trouble (I've owned it for 3 years). I sail in fresh water so haven't paid too much attention to flushing. This year, the boat was launched early because of flooding so I didn't get a chance to do any maintenance. I am not getting any water discharging from the upper opening. I checked the lower intake for obstructions and it seemed clear. Can I flush the engine while it's in the well? Yamaha sells a flush kit for about $10, would it do the job? What else would cause the problem besides internal obstructions?

Also, (this exposes my ignorance about outboards) how does one properly connect and prime the fuel line? I have a new line with bulb that seemed to work fine last year, but not because I knew what I was doing. Should the tank vent be open or closed? I've run it closed but I'm not sure that's right. The bulb never gets "firm", what am I doing wrong? The engine starts and then stalls out.

All I want to do is sail.



rpassmore42@hotmail.com

[Bob Ohler]

I'm using a Yamaha 9.9 on my CD26, the engine is 12 years old and has never given me trouble (I've owned it for 3 years). I sail in fresh water so haven't paid too much attention to flushing. This year, the boat was launched early because of flooding so I didn't get a chance to do any maintenance. I am not getting any water discharging from the upper opening. I checked the lower intake for obstructions and it seemed clear.

I had the Yamaha 9.9 on a previous boat. This may sound crazy, but it worked for me, per the local outboard mechanic's advice.... Try taking a piece of wire and sticking it in the discharge hole and wiggle the wire around. Mine was blocked, but this simple trick worked for me.

Can I flush the engine while it's in the well? Yamaha sells a flush kit for about $10, would it do the job? What else would cause the problem besides internal obstructions?

I'm not sure if this will work in a well, but I had a pair of "ear muffs" that I used to flush the outboard. They worked for me, but my O/B was on a transom mounted bracket.

Also, (this exposes my ignorance about outboards) how does one properly connect and prime the fuel line? I have a new line with bulb that seemed to work fine last year, but not because I knew what I was doing. Should the tank vent be open or closed? I've run it closed but I'm not sure that's right. The bulb never gets "firm", what am I doing wrong? The engine starts and then stalls out.

Open the vent, pump the bulb until it gets good and firm. Run the engine with the tank vent open. If you don't, if will definetly stall!

All I want to do is sail.

bobohler@chesapeake.net

[Don Carr]

Rich; If you are not getting cooling water discharging the problem may
be worn out impeller. Regardless of salt/fresh the impellers need to be replaced every 'x' hours of engine run time. Assuming the motor is
9 years old this could possibly be the issue.

Secondly the fuel tank vent should be opened when in use, otherwise a vacuum builds and the engine will starve for fuel. I run a Nissan 9.8
and usually squeeze the bulb about 7-12 times on a 'cold' start. Once you are primed you are generally god-to-go for the day. Also, I assume you have choked the engine. Once the engine is running about 15-30secs set the choke off or the engine will
stall due to flooding.

Hope this helps.



carrds@us.ibm.com

[Mike Buppert]

If you look at Dana's CD26 page(Where to look, owners web pages)there is some good info on the Yamaha 9.9 including some pictures of a flushing setup that will work with the engine installed. If the passages are not blocked, a bad waterpump will also reduce/stop flow from the upper port.

Mike Buppert
CD25 "Lucille"
Toms River Yacht Club
Barnegat Bay, NJ

I'm using a Yamaha 9.9 on my CD26, the engine is 12 years old and has never given me trouble (I've owned it for 3 years). I sail in fresh water so haven't paid too much attention to flushing. This year, the boat was launched early because of flooding so I didn't get a chance to do any maintenance. I am not getting any water discharging from the upper opening. I checked the lower intake for obstructions and it seemed clear. Can I flush the engine while it's in the well? Yamaha sells a flush kit for about $10, would it do the job? What else would cause the problem besides internal obstructions?

Also, (this exposes my ignorance about outboards) how does one properly connect and prime the fuel line? I have a new line with bulb that seemed to work fine last year, but not because I knew what I was doing. Should the tank vent be open or closed? I've run it closed but I'm not sure that's right. The bulb never gets "firm", what am I doing wrong? The engine starts and then stalls out.

All I want to do is sail.

buppert@csionline.net

[John Laton]

I'm using a Yamaha 9.9 on my CD26, the engine is 12 years old and has never given me trouble (I've owned it for 3 years). I sail in fresh water so haven't paid too much attention to flushing. This year, the boat was launched early because of flooding so I didn't get a chance to do any maintenance. I am not getting any water discharging from the upper opening. I checked the lower intake for obstructions and it seemed clear. Can I flush the engine while it's in the well? Yamaha sells a flush kit for about $10, would it do the job? What else would cause the problem besides internal obstructions?

Lots of good advice here.. as for the bulb, there are arrows on the bulb that show the direction of fuel flow.. and I can tell you from experience that it must be hooked up with the flow arrow pointing to the engine.

Good luck.. and start saving for that eventual new engine now !

John

Also, (this exposes my ignorance about outboards) how does one properly connect and prime the fuel line? I have a new line with bulb that seemed to work fine last year, but not because I knew what I was doing. Should the tank vent be open or closed? I've run it closed but I'm not sure that's right. The bulb never gets "firm", what am I doing wrong? The engine starts and then stalls out.

All I want to do is sail.

johncd25@hotmail.com

[Bob Chamberland]

There is a tiny wasp that likes to plug up that discharge hole. I had the same problem and was offered the same solution as Bob Ohler. I was already for major work and that little wire saved everything.

Bob Chamberland

I'm using a Yamaha 9.9 on my CD26, the engine is 12 years old and has never given me trouble (I've owned it for 3 years). I sail in fresh water so haven't paid too much attention to flushing. This year, the boat was launched early because of flooding so I didn't get a chance to do any maintenance. I am not getting any water discharging from the upper opening. I checked the lower intake for obstructions and it seemed clear.

I had the Yamaha 9.9 on a previous boat. This may sound crazy, but it worked for me, per the local outboard mechanic's advice.... Try taking a piece of wire and sticking it in the discharge hole and wiggle the wire around. Mine was blocked, but this simple trick worked for me.

Can I flush the engine while it's in the well? Yamaha sells a flush kit for about $10, would it do the job? What else would cause the problem besides internal obstructions?

I'm not sure if this will work in a well, but I had a pair of "ear muffs" that I used to flush the outboard. They worked for me, but my O/B was on a transom mounted bracket.

Also, (this exposes my ignorance about outboards) how does one properly connect and prime the fuel line? I have a new line with bulb that seemed to work fine last year, but not because I knew what I was doing. Should the tank vent be open or closed? I've run it closed but I'm not sure that's right. The bulb never gets "firm", what am I doing wrong? The engine starts and then stalls out.

Open the vent, pump the bulb until it gets good and firm. Run the engine with the tank vent open. If you don't, if will definetly stall!

All I want to do is sail.

cha62759@traverse.com

[Kurt]

I had problems with Zebra Mussels getting into the cooling system of my 9.9 Honda. Nothing serious...but the little buggers did plug up the cooling water telltale which is the smallest water passage on the engine and the only one that got plugged up.



kjlgpw@aol.com

[Rich]

I had problems with Zebra Mussels getting into the cooling system of my 9.9 Honda. Nothing serious...but the little buggers did plug up the cooling water telltale which is the smallest water passage on the engine and the only one that got plugged up.

I thought about that, the boat was on the Mississippi when I bought it and there were some Zebra mussels around the intake that I cleaned off. I ran the engine and had a decent flow so didn't pursue it further. I suppose they could be lodged inside, kind of damming up the works. How did you get them out?



rpassmore42@hotmail.com

[Rich]

Rich; If you are not getting cooling water discharging the problem may
be worn out impeller. Regardless of salt/fresh the impellers need to be replaced every 'x' hours of engine run time. Assuming the motor is
9 years old this could possibly be the issue.

Thanks for the tips, I'm surprised I was getting anywhere at all.

Is the impeller a DIY job? I'm reasonably mechanical and have the tools.



rpassmore42@hotmail.com

[Boyd]

The Suzuki outboard on a previous boat developed a similar problem. I inherited the problem from the previous owner. The motor was had only been used 3 years in salt water. After rebuilding the waterpump it still didnt pee out the discharge hole and the motor got hot. Most small outboards dont have a thermostat. I ended up dissassembling the motor and sandblasting out the cooling passages. The motor was used in salt water and had massive lime deposits internally. They sell a desalter at the boat stores locally which they claim will descale an outboard. Never had the oportunity to try it. After rebuilding I did buy the flush kit and flushed the motor after evey use. No problems after that. The flush kit allowed me to connect the flushing hose to the engine block and flush while in the water. Most outboads dont have that feature. I suppose if you can reach down and hook up the flushing fitting at the prop end you could flush in the water.

Now as a precaution I flush my outboard motor after every use and run the engine with the fuel shut off until the carborator is dry. They work without a hitch almost every time.

Bulb not getting firm.... could be several things.

1. Bad bulb or a bad check valve or bulb installed backwards.

2. Once in a while the carborator float sticks and the bulb wont get hard because fuel is being pumped thru the carb and out into either the engine or housing. This problem usually corrects itself in a minute or so. I smack the side of the engine to jiggle it. Which helps my attitude also.

3. Air leak in the fuel line causing the engine system to lose prime.
Look at all the fittings. Especially if there is a filter in the system.

Engine starting and dying out. ..

Both of my carborated outboards are very sensitive to changes in the oil/gas mix. I have to fine tune the idle mixture screw with each new tank of fuel to get them to idle and to accelerate without dying.

Also check the fuel pump.. could be a bad diaphram.

One last piece of advice... even though we consider ouselves sailors we are very dependent on motors. I have had every boat motor(of all kinds)quit at some time (usually a very inconvienent one). I always get the manuals,maintain my engines meticusouly,and know them inside and out. Its a matter of survival...

Good luck.. Boyd

I'm using a Yamaha 9.9 on my CD26, the engine is 12 years old and has never given me trouble (I've owned it for 3 years). I sail in fresh water so haven't paid too much attention to flushing. This year, the boat was launched early because of flooding so I didn't get a chance to do any maintenance. I am not getting any water discharging from the upper opening. I checked the lower intake for obstructions and it seemed clear. Can I flush the engine while it's in the well? Yamaha sells a flush kit for about $10, would it do the job? What else would cause the problem besides internal obstructions?

Also, (this exposes my ignorance about outboards) how does one properly connect and prime the fuel line? I have a new line with bulb that seemed to work fine last year, but not because I knew what I was doing. Should the tank vent be open or closed? I've run it closed but I'm not sure that's right. The bulb never gets "firm", what am I doing wrong? The engine starts and then stalls out.

All I want to do is sail.

Tern30@aol.com

[Dana]

It does not sound too bad...vent opening should be open when running.
Bulb may not get that hard for this engine...

1. 95% chance that the water indicator hole is blocked with small garbage.
clear with end of piece of wire into hole. If does not do the trick then look to the water pump. Get water pump kit, undo shift rod connection with two wrenches, take off the four lower nuts which secure lower unit to the exhaust cowling (skeg part). Pull down to pull off lower unit with drive shaft...water supply tube remains in cowling...remove black plastic water pump plastic cover which is at bottom of drive shaft...has four bolts with a "spring bracket" under each group of two bolts. Pull off rubber water pump impeller which is around the shaft under cover. Rubber impeller has shaft key...replacement key in kit...replace metal SS plate spacer with gasket on both sides...press on new impeller with key....
..replace water supply tube rubber seal from kit...replace SS pump cage in cover...replace cover over impeller while turning shaft counterclockwise to get pump impeller edges into cage and blades turned in the right direction. Rebolt cover back on....grease sides only of upper drive shaft spline...do not grease top of spline...insert lower unit into upper exhaust cowling..guiding drive shaft into female spline...must also guide water tube back into top of water pump housing...I slide a thin hack saw blade into the side of open crack between the lower unit and upper exhaust guide cowling as I slide the lower unit in...must use small flashlight to see...reinstall retaining nuts and recouple shifter rod....adjust shifter rod to give smooth shifting between forward and reverse with good neutral position.

If this is not it then you may have some blocked horizontal water passages which are accessible by removing the overhead valve cover plate at back end of engine...will need new rubber cover gasket...must disconnect mechanical fuel pump on cover....you can rod out the two horizontal passages on the left side of cover...



darenius@aol.com