Steering Cables and Sheave Pins

[Ken Coit]

Well, we replaced the sheave pins this weekend. It was quite easy once I got in there. The cotter pin heads seat between small bumps on the casting, so the pins don't rotate when you try to apply pressure to them. I was able to remove the first pin without releasing the tension on the cable, but I don't think I should have. The rest are a snap, once you have slack. More on that later on. Parfait's bronze pins were hardly worn at all. Not only does Parfait have a low hours engine (<700), she must also be low miles under sail. Or maybe they were replaced earlier. Because the pins cannot rotate under ordinary operation, all the wear occurs on one side of the pin. By flipping the cotter pins over, I suppose you could cause more even wear, but I'm not sure it matters.

I discovered that the 3/16" cable had been replaced. How could I tell? There were no thimbles used. I thanked whatever boat mechanic did that and made another trip to West Marine. Of course, I dropped one of the nuts on the clamps, so I made still another trip to West Marine.

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC





parfait@nc.rr.com

[John MacArthur]

I have quite a bit of 3/8" stainless rod on hand, and will be making a set of sheave pins for my boat, and will be able to make sets for anyone else interested. I will probably charge less than half what Edson gets ($44/set), depending on interest.

John MacArthur
jmac@laplaza.org

http://laplaza.org/~jmac/



jmac@laplaza.org

[Chris Schnell]

John....I haven't even inspected mine yet but with what I've read I'll be changing mine. So I would be very interested. I have just bought a 1982 CD30 Cutter, Hull #235, and hope to wet her hull this weekend. Please e-mail my when you go into "production". Thanks.
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III #235
Southport, NC



swabbie@compaq.net

[Larry Mace]

Well, we replaced the sheave pins this weekend. It was quite easy once I got in there. The cotter pin heads seat between small bumps on the casting, so the pins don't rotate when you try to apply pressure to them. I was able to remove the first pin without releasing the tension on the cable, but I don't think I should have. The rest are a snap, once you have slack. More on that later on. Parfait's bronze pins were hardly worn at all. Not only does Parfait have a low hours engine (<700), she must also be low miles under sail. Or maybe they were replaced earlier. Because the pins cannot rotate under ordinary operation, all the wear occurs on one side of the pin. By flipping the cotter pins over, I suppose you could cause more even wear, but I'm not sure it matters.

I discovered that the 3/16" cable had been replaced. How could I tell? There were no thimbles used. I thanked whatever boat mechanic did that and made another trip to West Marine. Of course, I dropped one of the nuts on the clamps, so I made still another trip to West Marine.

Ken
S/V Parfait
Raleigh, NC

We checked ours this weekend and they were fine and stainless. Upon looking at the original documents I saw a note on the Edson manual where the original owner replaced them with stainless. What a pleasure to have previous owner that made many improvements to the boat and documented them.
Larry Mace
cd 33 dolce



lmace@gt.com

[Ken Coit]

John,

Pay attention to the alignment of the holes for the cotter pins. They need to be parallel in order to work with the bronze casting. The cotter pin heads lie flat against the casting in small nubs. Makes it very easy to spread the legs of the cotter pin.

Don't forget to include the drill bits in your estimate of costs.

Ken

I have quite a bit of 3/8" stainless rod on hand, and will be making a set of sheave pins for my boat, and will be able to make sets for anyone else interested. I will probably charge less than half what Edson gets ($44/set), depending on interest.

John MacArthur
jmac@laplaza.org

http://laplaza.org/~jmac/

parfait@nc.rr.com

[Jerry]

John....I haven't even inspected mine yet but with what I've read I'll be changing mine. So I would be very interested. I have just bought a 1982 CD30 Cutter, Hull #235, and hope to wet her hull this weekend. Please e-mail my when you go into "production". Thanks.
Chris Schnell
s/v MADNESS III #235
Southport, NC

Chris,
When you check your pins, be sure to check all 4. I replaced mine this past weekend and found that 3 had very little wear but the 4th was worn almost completely through. The job is pretty much as Ken described, not bad as long as you release the tension on the cable first.
Jerry
1984 CD30 #321

[John MacArthur]

John,

Pay attention to the alignment of the holes for the cotter pins. They need to be parallel in order to work with the bronze casting. The cotter pin heads lie flat against the casting in small nubs. Makes it very easy to spread the legs of the cotter pin.

Don't forget to include the drill bits in your estimate of costs.

Ken

Ken -- Thanks for the tip -- this will be automatic, as the pins will be clamped in the vise of a milling machine.

John MacArthur
jmac@laplaza.org

http://laplaza.org/~jmac/



jmac@laplaza.org