Cleaning/Finishing Teak & Holly Cabin Floor

[Brian W.]

I've tried searching the board for the last two weeks on this topic as I'm sure it's been discussed. Everytime I do I just get a blank CD page no matter how long I wait or change the search words. (anyone else have this problem?) Anyway, I thought I'd just pose the question.

Looking to spiff up the teak & holly cabin floor of our CD33 this spring. It would be great to have the holly bright and clean all season, though I'm not sure the best way to approach this. Our yard said one of best ways to clean it woudl be using regular teak cleaner on the floor and carefully rinsing it into the bilge. thinking of trying this, but not sure what to treat the finished product with. Cetol would probably provide great protection, but the orange pigment I assume wouldn't look to good staining the holy. Varnish seems like it would be a lot of work (and upkeep) and come out too shiny.

Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to make the wood look it's best?

Thanks,

Brian W.

[Larry DeMers]

This is an application that Cetol is not the best for. Since there is no UV exposure in the boat (hopefully), varnish now becomes the best choice for the sole refinishing. It is a harder finish than Cetol (comparing cetol gloss to varnish satin finish), and it will not weather like it would outside.
We sanded the sole carefully and lightly with 220 grit wet or dry. Tack rag it, then use a foam brush and apply the varnish in one direction only, and with the grain. Never go so far as you have a dry brush on the surface.

We put on 3 coats of Valspar Satin Varnish, and it looks great! We also used this same varnish on the cabin teak bulkheads and shelves, seat backs etc. The advantage over oil is that it fills in the grain of the teak nicely, leaving a smooth surface, so that mildew spores don't attach to the wood. Since doing the whole interior, we have only gotten little areas behind the head door..in the cracks and edges that mildewed a little. Otherwise, the boat has been mildew clear for 3 years.

Cheers!

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

I've tried searching the board for the last two weeks on this topic as I'm sure it's been discussed. Everytime I do I just get a blank CD page no matter how long I wait or change the search words. (anyone else have this problem?) Anyway, I thought I'd just pose the question.

Looking to spiff up the teak & holly cabin floor of our CD33 this spring. It would be great to have the holly bright and clean all season, though I'm not sure the best way to approach this. Our yard said one of best ways to clean it woudl be using regular teak cleaner on the floor and carefully rinsing it into the bilge. thinking of trying this, but not sure what to treat the finished product with. Cetol would probably provide great protection, but the orange pigment I assume wouldn't look to good staining the holy. Varnish seems like it would be a lot of work (and upkeep) and come out too shiny.

Does anyone have suggestions on the best way to make the wood look it's best?

Thanks,

Brian W.

demers@sgi.com

[Scott Sirgo]

On my CD28, I have had great results using REXTHANE by Sherwin-Williams. It is a clear urethane used for gym floors. My process was 1st: Clean with 2-part teak cleaner and allow to completely dry, 2nd: Lightly sand surface to remove stains not removed by cleaner. DO NOT use an aggressive grit. This step should be used with caution so as not to leave sanding marks in surface. 3rd: Follow directions on can. Sand lightly between coats to remove surface defects. Use seperate container for material being applied so as not to contaminate main batch with particals on surface (dust, ect.). After 3 coats you will have a beautiful finish that is crystal clear to allow the teak & holly to show why you did not install carpet. Water is not a problem on the finish in that the surface will not become slippery. My job is 10 years old and still looks great. I will touch-up with one coat soon but it really doesn't need it. Hope this helps.

[Bill]

A few years ago a fellow Cder informed me that he used Liquid Gold on the sole of his CD 30 and ever since then that is what I have used. If I am not mistaken the owners manual even says to use Liquid Gold or someting similiar. I wash with soap and water, allow to dry, and then apply Liquid Gold. Takes about 10 minutes to apply (on a 25D), washing & drying will take longer depending upon air temp. And when it needs sprucing up, it only takes a few minutes.

Bill






cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[Brian W.]

Thanks for the very helpful replies. Looking forward to the job now.

Regards,

Brian W.

[Steve Alarcon]

Brian,

In our (previous) CD30 (that had not been treated) I used 2 part teak cleaner after using Comet Cleanser and bronze wool, then applied polyurathane (sp?). It turned out great. Current boat (CD36) has "gym seal" (thanks Bob!) on the deck, and it seems more resilient. "Gym Seal" is what they put on basketball court floors, and is available through regular paint stores( not all, but will be much less expensive).

Fair Winds,
Steve Alarcon
CD36 Tenacity
Seattle



alarcon3@prodigy.net