Dyna-Plate Replacement ??'s

[Bill]

Hello to All

Well knowing full well that boat jobs typically are not as simple as they may look, I was wondering two things about dynaplates.

1) How do you tell if yours needs replacing?

2) Is it as simple as it looks?

Thanks and fair winds

Bill



cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[len]

bill

i'm interested in what others say re replacement, i thought they were good forever unless painted over - i had to add a second plate at one point, and it was simple: a couple of holes through the hull, caulking, and connecting the grounding wires

len



md.frel@nwh.org

[Bill]

Thanks Len

I too am interested in hearing about the "shelf-life" of the dyan-plate. My boat is on the hard and the I wouldnt know fi the palte was bad or not. While on the hard, if it needs replacing, then I would like to do it now. So relying upon the wisdom/experience of others.

I too am considering adding another plate and was wondering just if it was as simple as it looks.....

Thanks for the response.

bill

bill

i'm interested in what others say re replacement, i thought they were good forever unless painted over - i had to add a second plate at one point, and it was simple: a couple of holes through the hull, caulking, and connecting the grounding wires

len

cd25d@rhapsodysails.com

[Larry Austin]

hi guys...i "can't" tell ya how to tell if the dyna plate is wore out, but i can tell you what i did to mine this year. while drying out the bilge right after she was put on the hard this year i was hearing static in the radio every time i was bumping the ground wires attached to the dyna plate. the wires were loose on the screws (there is about 4 ground wires ea on the 2 screws, plus a solid copper wire to each screw which i "think" is the "lighting ground wire". the wire seems to go to all the seacocks. anyway , i couldnt tighten up the nut on the screw (bolt) to tighten up the wires..the nut was so corroded to the screw and as hard i tried the bolt began to twist. i decided to break the screws and replaced them. i broke the screws and just pushed them outside. once they were out i went outside expecting the dyna plate to be on the ground. . after removing the 2 screws the plate will most likely still be "stuck" to the side of the boat because of the sealer and some of the paint buildup around the plate. i recommend getting about a 6" piece of 2x4 ,put it on the top lip of the dyna plate and hit it waith a hammer. the plate should pop off. i wire brushed the plate, cleaned off the old sealer on the boat and plate and got new screws. the screws are (according to spartan) silicone bronze, BUT spartan does not sell replacement screws..you have to buy a entire dyna plate kit to get the screws. i got new screws at Chesapeake Marine Fasteners. their web site is very good and their service is better!! have your old screws in hand, go to the web site and you will be able to figure out what size you have. anyway, the plate is all cleaned up, got new screws, ground wires are nice and tight...now i'm just "so" ready for the float test. hope this helps

Larry Austin
CD30MKII #2

couple PS's...make sure to come down on the wood with the hammer very carefully..you dont want to hit the hull.

the yard said that copper nuts and bolts would work just as well. i like to put whatever the factory used.

and lastly..i don't think i would have removed the dyna plate just to clean it up, but i would check the ground wires on the plate to make sure they are tight. i do remember (while working on this project) that the radio, and the "am" having static in them from time to time..i never thought to check for any loose wiring..just thought i was to far from antenas, etc.



laustin@us.ibm.com

[Larry Austin]

Chesapeake Marine Fasteners website.

http://www.chesfast.com/

very fast service...had my order the next day.



laustin@us.ibm.com

[Larry DeMers]

Hi Guys,

The sintered bronze 'Dynaplate' can be wire brushed clean (carefully), and I bet you could use a bronze cleaner (liquid of course) on it too if you don't have to rub it at all. I think the best to do is to see if it has the same depth and sharp features in the surface as new. If they have been rounded off by electrolysis, or rough cleaning, then it may be time to get a new one.

Historicaly, these devices were used to provide a fairly low impedance ground for your LORAN C rcvr's, as well as a parallel ground for the bonding sytem. Current popular opinion sits in disfavor of the sintered bronze dyna plate, as it's only purpose as far as the general public is concerned is for the bonding (lightning) ground. The theory is that this device will not help with a major electrical strike.

I feel that they could be right -or wrong. I cannot determine from the reports and studies of lightning that I have read over the past 20 years if this device does help your bonding scheme or not. Theoretically, anything in electrical contact with the water will provide some additional grounding of the mast and boat in general. This is good, as the total impedance then drops, making the boat a less likely target for sinking from lightning. BUt be aware that there are at least two schools of thought on this.

On DeLaMer, I have the mast grounded to the Dynaplate, as well as the underwater metal per factory wiring. I do not ground the incoming 120vac green wire to anything but the inverter/charger itself, where that paricular conductor is automatically switched to the ships ground when we are not powered by shorepower. Since we still use LORAN C as a backup for the GPS on long trips, this ground was deemed necessary.

Hint for those replacing their dynaplate mounting hardware. Coat the new hardware in vaseline of other non-water soluable grease, and you will not have a future corrosion problem that is there now.

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

Hello to All

Well knowing full well that boat jobs typically are not as simple as they may look, I was wondering two things about dynaplates.

1) How do you tell if yours needs replacing?

2) Is it as simple as it looks?

Thanks and fair winds

Bill

demers@sgi.com

[Ed Roberts]

Is there any merit to the argument that the sintered (porous) Dynaplate, filled with water, will explode when the huge current of the lightning strike heats the metal and turns the trapped water to steam? If so, it might well blow a hole in the bottom of the boat.

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Bill and Larry,

I have found that simply swabbing the Dynaplate down with a little On & Off hull cleaner removes all the yucky green stuff and barnacles right away. Wash it down with a hose and plenty of water when finished, that stuff is an acid(oh, and wear the proper PPE!). A little brushing might also be in order. If the plate is still there, it should still be useful. FWIW...

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30

[John R.]

Bill and Larry,

I have found that simply swabbing the Dynaplate down with a little On & Off hull cleaner removes all the yucky green stuff and barnacles right away. Wash it down with a hose and plenty of water when finished, that stuff is an acid(oh, and wear the proper PPE!). A little brushing might also be in order. If the plate is still there, it should still be useful. FWIW...

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30

I've done the same thing and I've actually soaked them in a plastic pan full of ON/OFF after removing them. I've also used a muriatic acid solution in a plastic pan. When reinstalling the plate be sure to always use a conductive agent on the ground bolt that contacts the plate to maintain a good electrical contact between the plate and the bolt the ground wires will be connected to.