cockpit access hatches

[Brian W.]

I've notice on the board people have installed cockpit access hatches to allow for better access to the transmission, stuffing box, steering system, etc. Our CD 33 suffers from the soft cockpit floor as a result of water coming in through the emergency tiller plate and soaking the balsa core. Someone proposed to us that if a cockpit hatch was installed, when the hole was cut there would be access to the soaked core. It could then be "snaked" out with a large piece of wire and either expanding foam or light epoxy injected in to regain the floor's structural integrity.

I guess my question is two fold:

1) has anyone had any problems after installing such a hatch? (we'd look to use a strong aluminum 4 dog hatch)

2) does this idea seem like it might be an effective approach?

Thanks,

Brian W.
CD33

[Ron Musk]

I've notice on the board people have installed cockpit access hatches to allow for better access to the transmission, stuffing box, steering system, etc. Our CD 33 suffers from the soft cockpit floor as a result of water coming in through the emergency tiller plate and soaking the balsa core. Someone proposed to us that if a cockpit hatch was installed, when the hole was cut there would be access to the soaked core. It could then be "snaked" out with a large piece of wire and either expanding foam or light epoxy injected in to regain the floor's structural integrity.

I guess my question is two fold:

1) has anyone had any problems after installing such a hatch? (we'd look to use a strong aluminum 4 dog hatch)

2) does this idea seem like it might be an effective approach?

Thanks,

Brian W.
CD33

Brian,
Depend on your core being soaked,once moisture gets in it wicks right through it.You may be able to dry it out if the balsa has not rotted.On our CD30 we faced the same problem with a rotten core.The top layer of fiberglass had to be cut off and the core removed.3/8 marine plywood to replace it set in epoxy and covered with biaxial cloth and more epoxy.Of course you may not have to go that far.The access hatch sounds like a good plan,just be sure to seal the edges any place you cut through.The total thickness of the sole is maybe 5/8"+-.You may want to beef up the perimeter of the hatch opening from underneath. On a CD30 under the sole is a 2" vertical pipe affixed to a 6"x6" pad of plywood glassed to the sole underside about 8" from the companionway seat.I'm not sure if the 33 has similar details in this area,but you should be able locate your hatch to provide suitable access. Good luck.

Ron Musk
s/v"R&R"
CD30



ccerre@massed.net

[Leopold Fuchs]

We have a cape dory 33 and last spring decided to install a cockpit hatch to access a problem we had with the steering crossmember. I bought an oval fiberglass hatch made in Blue Hill Maine through Hamilton Marine in Searsport, Maine 207 548-6302 It is their part no. JS 15x25 and that is the size and it sells for 209.99. It was made for the job. Light strong, you can fit through it and access and see all the things that you couldn't before. The cockpit grates cover it over. We plan to do a bit of reinforcing to the piece of the sole that is left between the hatch and the companionway. Our sole is sound as a nut and we sealed the exposed area where we made the cut. What a great boat arn't we lucky to have one.



litlook@midcoast.com

[Leopold Fuchs]

We have a cape dory 33 and last spring decided to install a cockpit hatch to access a problem we had with the steering crossmember. I bought an oval fiberglass hatch made in Blue Hill Maine through Hamilton Marine in Searsport, Maine 207 548-6302 It is their part no. JS 15x25 and that is the size and it sells for 209.99. It was made for the job. Light strong, you can fit through it and access and see all the things that you couldn't before. The cockpit grates cover it over. We plan to do a bit of reinforcing to the piece of the sole that is left between the hatch and the companionway. Our sole is sound as a nut and we sealed the exposed area where we made the cut. What a great boat arn't we lucky to have one.



litlook@midcoast.com

[chuck yahrling]

I've notice on the board people have installed cockpit access hatches to allow for better access to the transmission, stuffing box, steering system, etc. Our CD 33 suffers from the soft cockpit floor as a result of water coming in through the emergency tiller plate and soaking the balsa core. Someone proposed to us that if a cockpit hatch was installed, when the hole was cut there would be access to the soaked core. It could then be "snaked" out with a large piece of wire and either expanding foam or light epoxy injected in to regain the floor's structural integrity.

I guess my question is two fold:

1) has anyone had any problems after installing such a hatch? (we'd look to use a strong aluminum 4 dog hatch)

2) does this idea seem like it might be an effective approach?

Thanks,

Brian W.
CD33

I redid the sole on my CD-27 a few years ago. I think it would take you forever to snake out the soggy balsa, as you describe. I cut the top layer of glass all around, just inside the gutter, using a moto tool with a fiber disk. Then I pried it up, chiseling out the balsa. I left the bottom layer as a pan to glue to (except for a hole under the hatch). That was the most time consuming part of the job.

Then I got a replacement panel of foam cored glass, courtesy of a friend who was vacuum bagging panels for a big catamaran project. Since I had a hatch and bezel kit picked out, we glassed in the bezel when fabbing up the panel. The all-fiberglass hatch and bezel ring can be had from Hamilton Marine for about $200. Half the lobster and old sail boats in the Casco Bay have them, FWIW. You could just as easily use a panel of 1/2" marine plywood.

I then cut the approx 2'x4' panel to fit, made an epoxy paste (used MAS), glued it in, and filled in the gaps later. Final touch was single part poly deck paint and no-skid polymer "sand". It's solid as a rock and there have been no cracks or other signs of flexing after two seasons and a lot of winter ice.

The bonus was that I was able to make a battery rack and relo the batteries under the hatch. Now I have the whole stb side locker to stow other goodies. Each spring I remove the hatch and just sit in the hole to check/replace the rear engine zinc, shaft packing, reverse gear oil, etc. before putting the batteries back. You'll love it!

Let me know and I'll send you some jpegs. I showed it to Andy V at the Maine reunion a few summers ago and he said the cockpit pan was not critical to the aft flex of the hull in a seaway, so he did not forsee any problems.



cyahrlin@cisco.com

[Brian W.]

Thanks for everyone's responses. I get the feeling the soft floor problem should be handled the "right way" and cut the top off and recore it. Then if a hatch were to be added, this would be the time to add it.

I suppose I should try to locate a good fiberglass guy on Long Island to tackle this job. While I've done some glass work, I don't know if I'm up to the job from a cosmetic standpoint.

By the way, I assume you wouldn't cut the old top layer off, recore, and re-afix the old top would you???

Thanks for the help,

Brian W.

[Ron Musk]

Thanks for everyone's responses. I get the feeling the soft floor problem should be handled the "right way" and cut the top off and recore it. Then if a hatch were to be added, this would be the time to add it.

I suppose I should try to locate a good fiberglass guy on Long Island to tackle this job. While I've done some glass work, I don't know if I'm up to the job from a cosmetic standpoint.

By the way, I assume you wouldn't cut the old top layer off, recore, and re-afix the old top would you???

Thanks for the help,

Brian W.

I have heard of that being possible but I have not had much luck the few times I've tried.I guess you need more patience than I.The top piece usually comes off deformed or broken,I think it's less trouble to be done with it.
Its a bit of a dirty and dusty undertaking but really not that difficult.I've seen on this board that it has cost 2-3 grand to have a yard do it,but its only money right! West Epoxy manuals and Casey's books describe the process clearly.
Ron Musk
s/v"R&R"
CD30



ccerre@massed.net