I contacted David Perry at Robinhood for information on Cape Dory 10 hull numbers. He said they do not have records of early shipments of CD10, but that the year of construction did not appear in the hull numbers until 1973 - (which was required by law). When the year was first included in hull number the production number was up to #1941. The hull number on mine is 413, so Perry guessed that it was built about 1966-1968.
The production of the CD10 slowed as Cape Dory concentrated on larger boats. Only about 100 were built from 1973 to 1980. Robinhood built about 30 from 1985 to 1993. Robinhood still has the molds, but it is not interested in marketing the boat at this time. The last price for CD10 was about $1,000 with teak trim.
kwoodlaw@arkansas.net
CD10 hull number
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Keith
Re: CD10 hull number
Typo on that price, should read $3,000.Keith wrote: I contacted David Perry at Robinhood for information on Cape Dory 10 hull numbers. He said they do not have records of early shipments of CD10, but that the year of construction did not appear in the hull numbers until 1973 - (which was required by law). When the year was first included in hull number the production number was up to #1941. The hull number on mine is 413, so Perry guessed that it was built about 1966-1968.
The production of the CD10 slowed as Cape Dory concentrated on larger boats. Only about 100 were built from 1973 to 1980. Robinhood built about 30 from 1985 to 1993. Robinhood still has the molds, but it is not interested in marketing the boat at this time. The last price for CD10 was about $1,000 with teak trim.
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Harris
Re: CD10 hull number
The fellow I got my CD 10 from...hull #1040 replaced it with a newer one. He sold the older one because of a close call involving inadequate floatation. I never fail to mention this. The boat will float swamped but it is almost neutral. The newer one.....I have never seen or heard about one since.......had a molded interior liner...with integral seating and used teak. Any idea what timeframe and production #s these ones were? I assumed that they were the end of the CD run.
hg@myhost.com
hg@myhost.com
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Bill Goldsmith
Re: CD10 hull number
I purchased CD10 Hull Number 2335 (1989) from a great guy who advertised it on this board back in September. He advised that a couple of times he swamped the boat and it floated low, with him in it, but high enough so that he felt sure the boat wasn't going down. I think that is all you can really expect from that design, but I pulled off the seats to investigate the flotation (and to refinish the seats).
The forward and middle teak thwarts are attached to built-in fiberglass compartments that support the seats and contain the flotation. If I ever get to it I'll photograph it and post some photos. The aft seats cover a compartment made up of a vertical wooden divider foreward, the hull and the transom aft. All three compartments were filled with green foam (the kind they make floral arrangements from). The foam was rather soggy and it occurred to me that if the foam was soggy it wasn't displacing some amount of water. Foam that absorbs water cannot be as good as foam that does not absorb water. I have researched other types of foam, and I believe that EPS, expanded polystyrene (NOT extruded polystyrene) is the best alternative. This stuff is commonly used for insulation and is available in many thicknesses and sizes. It is the same color as a foam coffee cup, but looks like a zillion foam pellets glued together. It is apparently very resisitant to water absorption and is considered a superior flotation product. I plan to replace the green soggy stuff with the EPS this winter.
Having said all that, the flotation is only there to keep the boat from sinking. It cannot be designed to make the boat rowable or sailable while swamped. A good hand bailer and/or hand bilge pump MUST be considered mandatory equipment in a CD10.
I don't know what the earlier flotation design looked like, but I presume that a 1989 boat would be one of the later design.
Bill Goldsmith
goldy@bestweb.net
The forward and middle teak thwarts are attached to built-in fiberglass compartments that support the seats and contain the flotation. If I ever get to it I'll photograph it and post some photos. The aft seats cover a compartment made up of a vertical wooden divider foreward, the hull and the transom aft. All three compartments were filled with green foam (the kind they make floral arrangements from). The foam was rather soggy and it occurred to me that if the foam was soggy it wasn't displacing some amount of water. Foam that absorbs water cannot be as good as foam that does not absorb water. I have researched other types of foam, and I believe that EPS, expanded polystyrene (NOT extruded polystyrene) is the best alternative. This stuff is commonly used for insulation and is available in many thicknesses and sizes. It is the same color as a foam coffee cup, but looks like a zillion foam pellets glued together. It is apparently very resisitant to water absorption and is considered a superior flotation product. I plan to replace the green soggy stuff with the EPS this winter.
Having said all that, the flotation is only there to keep the boat from sinking. It cannot be designed to make the boat rowable or sailable while swamped. A good hand bailer and/or hand bilge pump MUST be considered mandatory equipment in a CD10.
I don't know what the earlier flotation design looked like, but I presume that a 1989 boat would be one of the later design.
Bill Goldsmith
Harris wrote: The fellow I got my CD 10 from...hull #1040 replaced it with a newer one. He sold the older one because of a close call involving inadequate floatation. I never fail to mention this. The boat will float swamped but it is almost neutral. The newer one.....I have never seen or heard about one since.......had a molded interior liner...with integral seating and used teak. Any idea what timeframe and production #s these ones were? I assumed that they were the end of the CD run.
goldy@bestweb.net