Leaking windows, CD28

[Tony Raymond]

I have a CD 28 flybridge cruiser. One of the wind shield windows is leaking at the bottom. It's not alot but enough to discolor the teak frame inside and cause streaking along the inside of the hull. Apon investigation, I discovered that the rubber strips that are used to hold the glass in place and seal the window are brittle and no longer plyable. Has anyone replaced these rubber strips and/or knows of a source to buy them? They have a cross section that is pretty complex that fits that particular frame. The alternative is to 'goop' it up with black silicon, which I prefer not to do.
In a related topic. The paint on the window frames on the whole boat are blistering from aluminum corrosion. Has anyone else experienced this and what have you done about it? Can the window's be removed easily, to take home and repaint? My guess is the factory bedded them in Silkaflex, Anyone know? If anyone has repainted, what products did you use and how successful was it. I'm considering using the Petit one part epoxy over an aluminum etch and hardcoat process.
Thanks for any input.
Tony Raymond



raymond@subsys.enet.dec.com

[Walt Bilofsky]

I have a CD 28 flybridge cruiser. One of the wind shield windows is leaking at the bottom. It's not alot but enough to discolor the teak frame inside and cause streaking along the inside of the hull. Apon investigation, I discovered that the rubber strips that are used to hold the glass in place and seal the window are brittle and no longer plyable.

<snip>

Tony -

I have a CD 30 flybridge powerboat (1991). My boat has had problems with leaks from both hatches (cabin and head) and from the port side and center windshields.

All were fixable (except the center which has yet to be done). The problem with all of them was leaking from the caulking, not the rubber.

I suspect that they just used too thin a layer of caulk. In addition, on my 30 (and also on a 33 powerboat I know of), the port side windshield is prone to leak when pounding into a sea. The head provides more structural rigidity on the starboard side, and I suspect that the combination of more flexibility in the port side and thin caulk on the windshield causes the portside leak. In any event, it has not recurred since I reset the windshield.

I suggest that you check the source of the leak if possible. Maybe carefully running water around the outside edge of the frame will show a leak, if you can keep it off the rubber gasket.

If the problem is the gasket, maybe Spartan Marine will have a suggestion for a replacement. They are at 800-325-3287.

If it is the caulk, the fix is tedious but will work if carefully done. If your windshield is like mine, it is held in by non-permanent caulk, and by screws in the aluminum frame on the inside. Remove that inside frame, and cut out as much caulking as you can. Be sure to cut through to the outside frame all around the window, so the caulking doesn't hold the window in when you start working from the outside.

Then move to the outside of the boat. By careful prying and cutting with a sharp knife under the outside edge of the frame, work your way around until the window is free. Work slowly, patiently, and in small increments to avoid bending the frame. If it doesn't pry up at one point, find another place to start from. I used towels to protect the fiberglass and different sized knives and screwdrivers to cut and pry. Coins are handy to place under the frame where it has been lifted to keep some working space; use masking tape to keep them from falling out.

When all the old caulk has been scraped off the window frame and fiberglass, reset the frame using a flexible, compressible, non-permanent adhesive. I used Sikaflex 231, which stretches/squeezes up to 50%. You MUST use non-permanent caulk, because the caulk is exposed to UV and may need to be replaced again some day.

The trick here is to hold the frame about 3/32' off the fiberglass, so that when the caulk sets, you screw in the inside frame and compress the caulk, forming a gasket. Be sure to use plenty of caulk.

I did it by using masking tape to tape about 6 or 8 quarters around the windshield opening, just close enough to the edge that they held the frame away from the fiberglass. After the caulk sets (several days), the quarters can be removed and caulk shoved into the spaces. Don't replace the inside frame until all the caulking is thoroughly set, or you'll ruin the job.

Also, use masking tape around the opening about 1/8' outside the frame edge so you can clean up the caulk easier.

When replacing the inside frame, remember that caulk between the frame and the fiberglass may help seal water out, but caulk between the frame and the teak cabin liner will just direct water somewhere else behind the liner, giving it a chance to ruin more wood and hide the real source of any leak.

I have not had any leaks recur after resetting this way. It's tedious, but anything less will look ugly and won't fix the problem.

Good luck.

- Walt Bilofsky



bilofsky@ix.netcom.com

[Tom Nolan]

We are interested in purchasing a CD28 Flybridge
as a weekend cruiser and fishing boat. Can you
advise us on your experiences with the boat. We
used to own a 1975 28 Cape Dory Sailboat and were
very happy with the quality and design. Mostly we
want an efficient pocket cruiser capable of
crossing to the Bahamas with a fair turn of speed
thats manuverable enough to negotiate the intra-
coastal waterway.
Thanks , Tom Nolan



etn001@email.mot.com

[Tony Raymond]

We have owned our boat for 2 yr's, it's an '88 w/Volvo 200hp diesel. I call it 'a sailers pwr boat' for a couple of reason's. The first is the traditional lines and the interior 'feel' is similar to many cruising sailboats. The other reason is it's motion in the water, the full keel and rounded chines makes it a slow roller and no pounding in a head sea. The boat will cruise at 12-14kts with either the 200 hp diesel or the 275hp Chysler gas. The early boats '85 and some of '86 were powered with a 100 hp (Perkins?)and were designated as a CD28 Trawler, probably because they only make about 8 kts. Cruising range is of course dependent on fuel consumption and fuel capacity. We use 7-8 gal/hr of diesel, my guess is the gas versions will use 2 or 3 times that although I don't know. I'm not sure, but I think CD put three different fuel tank configurations in the boats. Twin 60 gallons (120g total), twin 50 gallons (100g total) and an optional 20 gallon tank in the bow instead of the head holding tank. Do any of you former CD employees know for sure? As for manuverability, it sort of depends on your experience. The full keel makes it susceptable to current influence more than wind. The single screw, makes you plan ahead when docking. I find that it backs in a straight line, but you can forget about turning while backing as the keel has alot more influence than the rudder when backing. On the other hand, the boat turns well going forward with a burst of thrust. An ex-sailer probably won't find it hard to manuver, you definatly don't just pull into a slip like some of these twin screw 600 hp sportfisherman. The boat is a very comfortable cruiser for two people, and probably pretty good with a kid or two. The flybridge is a great place to be in nice weather, a little uncomfortable in heavy weather. But that's ok, since you can drive from the main cabin. Which is very comfortable with good visibility. Whereas, we are in New England the cabin allows us to extend the season a bit despite the rain in the spring and the cool in the fall. It is not bad for fishing, but is a limited due to the size of the cockpit. It is certainly less suited to fish than say a Bertram 28. If fishing is important, you may consider the CD28 open fisherman, which is the same boat without the cabin and flybridge. My opinion is that it is alot of boat for 28 feet and very seaworthy. It is built with the same quality and fit and finish found on the Cape Dory sail boats. You didn't ask about price, but my perception is that in New England they are between $55k -- $85k depending of course on age, equipment and engine(diesel get's about 10k more).
Regards,
Tony Raymond



raymond@subsys.enet.dec.com