Can anyone tell me if it is possible to disable the internal regulation feature of the factory alternator so a new external one can be installed for gel cells but still using the old alternator?
Thanks, Ged
gbryon@k12s.phast.umass.edu
TAMD41A Alternator Mod
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Larry DeMers
Re: TAMD41A Alternator Mod
Hi,
Yes, you can do it, but you will need some soldering experience, and a little mechanical talent to provide an exit portal on the alternator that will be robust enough for marine use, taking into account vibration, moisture etc.
I would recommend starting by buying Nigel Calders Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual. He has an extensive section on alternators, theory of operation, and most importantly for you, how to determine whether your diode packs are a negative or positive type. How to measure current produced and at what field voltage, wire sizes to use etc. It's one of the better manuals out there.
Once the alternator type (P or N) has been determined, you can remove the existing regulator circuit. In my Rhome alternator, this was a solid state, encapsulted unit. There will be several wires going into it. Identify and mark the Field winding wires. Remove the rest, and make sure there is no debris or uninsulated wires in the case. Route the wires out through the case where possible, or solder wire extensions on these two leads..and insultate well.. and then create a box or cover plate to protect the alt. and this connection you are about to make.
The field windings are the connection points that a regulator will attach to. You may need to know which winding is which..F1 and F on my alternator..different on yours. Now you need to attach the external alt. reg. to these wires, and test the results. Follow the directions that came with the alt. reg. carefully.I would be interested in knowing the field voltage being applied vs. the output current to the battery bank. This will tell you if the reg. is working or not. At first, it might be prudent to place a simple SPST toggle switch in series with the field wiring, in order to be able to open the winding and shut off the charging current should something not go as scripted! I won't get into the regulator hook up/operation as the manual will be your guide here.
That should do it. An alternator shop would also b e a good source of advice about this conversion..and parts no doubt. I find them a source of good info and the best parts if that is what you need.
Be Careful here..and use that SPST (single pole-single throw) switch
in the field circuit for protection.
Good Luck,
Larry DeMers
s/v deLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
Yes, you can do it, but you will need some soldering experience, and a little mechanical talent to provide an exit portal on the alternator that will be robust enough for marine use, taking into account vibration, moisture etc.
I would recommend starting by buying Nigel Calders Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual. He has an extensive section on alternators, theory of operation, and most importantly for you, how to determine whether your diode packs are a negative or positive type. How to measure current produced and at what field voltage, wire sizes to use etc. It's one of the better manuals out there.
Once the alternator type (P or N) has been determined, you can remove the existing regulator circuit. In my Rhome alternator, this was a solid state, encapsulted unit. There will be several wires going into it. Identify and mark the Field winding wires. Remove the rest, and make sure there is no debris or uninsulated wires in the case. Route the wires out through the case where possible, or solder wire extensions on these two leads..and insultate well.. and then create a box or cover plate to protect the alt. and this connection you are about to make.
The field windings are the connection points that a regulator will attach to. You may need to know which winding is which..F1 and F on my alternator..different on yours. Now you need to attach the external alt. reg. to these wires, and test the results. Follow the directions that came with the alt. reg. carefully.I would be interested in knowing the field voltage being applied vs. the output current to the battery bank. This will tell you if the reg. is working or not. At first, it might be prudent to place a simple SPST toggle switch in series with the field wiring, in order to be able to open the winding and shut off the charging current should something not go as scripted! I won't get into the regulator hook up/operation as the manual will be your guide here.
That should do it. An alternator shop would also b e a good source of advice about this conversion..and parts no doubt. I find them a source of good info and the best parts if that is what you need.
Be Careful here..and use that SPST (single pole-single throw) switch
in the field circuit for protection.
Good Luck,
Larry DeMers
s/v deLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Ged Bryon wrote: Can anyone tell me if it is possible to disable the internal regulation feature of the factory alternator so a new external one can be installed for gel cells but still using the old alternator?
Thanks, Ged
demers@sgi.com
-
Ged Bryon
Re: TAMD41A Alternator Mod
Larry, thanks for the help. This is exactly what I needed to proceed. We're hauling the boat next weekend so I'll take the alternator home for the winter and start work. I've been soldering since I was 12 yrs old and am mechanically inclined and with your advice and encouragement I think I'll be fine. Thank you!
gbryon@k12s.phast.umass.edu
Larry DeMers wrote: Hi,
Yes, you can do it, but you will need some soldering experience, and a little mechanical talent to provide an exit portal on the alternator that will be robust enough for marine use, taking into account vibration, moisture etc.
I would recommend starting by buying Nigel Calders Boatowners Mechanical and Electrical Manual. He has an extensive section on alternators, theory of operation, and most importantly for you, how to determine whether your diode packs are a negative or positive type. How to measure current produced and at what field voltage, wire sizes to use etc. It's one of the better manuals out there.
Once the alternator type (P or N) has been determined, you can remove the existing regulator circuit. In my Rhome alternator, this was a solid state, encapsulted unit. There will be several wires going into it. Identify and mark the Field winding wires. Remove the rest, and make sure there is no debris or uninsulated wires in the case. Route the wires out through the case where possible, or solder wire extensions on these two leads..and insultate well.. and then create a box or cover plate to protect the alt. and this connection you are about to make.
The field windings are the connection points that a regulator will attach to. You may need to know which winding is which..F1 and F on my alternator..different on yours. Now you need to attach the external alt. reg. to these wires, and test the results. Follow the directions that came with the alt. reg. carefully.I would be interested in knowing the field voltage being applied vs. the output current to the battery bank. This will tell you if the reg. is working or not. At first, it might be prudent to place a simple SPST toggle switch in series with the field wiring, in order to be able to open the winding and shut off the charging current should something not go as scripted! I won't get into the regulator hook up/operation as the manual will be your guide here.
That should do it. An alternator shop would also b e a good source of advice about this conversion..and parts no doubt. I find them a source of good info and the best parts if that is what you need.
Be Careful here..and use that SPST (single pole-single throw) switch
in the field circuit for protection.
Good Luck,
Larry DeMers
s/v deLaMer
Cape Dory 30Ged Bryon wrote: Can anyone tell me if it is possible to disable the internal regulation feature of the factory alternator so a new external one can be installed for gel cells but still using the old alternator?
Thanks, Ged
gbryon@k12s.phast.umass.edu