Typhoon rigging

[Craig Taylor]

I just purchased a 1980 Typhoon Weekender. Taking the position that nothing is completely self-evident, does anyone have diagrams of how the running rigging is set up, ie. mainsheet, jib sheets, where halyards are tied off, etc? I am revealing my sailing ignorance, but want to save time and minimize frustrations. Thanks



cnspsych@aol.com

[Mike Wainfeld]

Craig-The halyards exit a sheave box at the base of the mast and go up to be made fast to cleats on the mast or angle out to the cleats on the cabin top on either side of the companionway. I find the latter arrangement more convenient. The sheets for the working jib go thru the fairleads on the cabin top, inside the shrouds, and are led tto the cleats on the cockpit coamings. A Genoa can be sheeted outside the shrouds to blocks on the toerail and back to those same cleats. The mainsheet runs from a fiddle block on the boom down and up to two separate blocks on the transom, then thru a cam cleat.
One of these days I'll get some pictures of my boat on the Web!
Have fun with your Ty, she's a great boat!



ripcord1@erols.com

[Marino Curati]

Diagrams of various CD models including specifications for the Ty can be found at the attached address.

I read the other response which covered everthing clearly. However, if you have spinnaker gear, the only odd thing is there isn't a turning block for the foreguy. My boat came with a long line that is to be run through the hole in the foredeck cleat and then back to a small cleat mounted on the cockpit coming. I don't know if this is the way on newer models (mine is 1970) but seems to work all right in my case. There also should be two turning blocks mounted port and starboard on the stern teak rail. Those are for your spinnaker sheet and pole guy lines. The spin halyard is external of the mast as is the topping lift and operate as normal.

Hope this helps,
Marino



mcurati@earthlink.net

[tc53]

We have a 1974 Ty Weekender (Hull #600) that we bought last February. It came with a symmetrical spinnaker, and it has some rigging elements in place, including an eye strap on the mast just above the top of the headstay (presumably for a halyard block) and another of the same in what appears to be the correct location for a spinnaker pole topping lift block. No halyard or topping lift lines though. I'm looking for advice/suggestions for completing this rigging set-up. Assuming we'll run an external spinnaker halyard up to a swivel block on that top eye strap, would a cheek block on the mast, leading back to a deck mounted cam cleat just outside the companionway work? Or perhaps a deck mounted spring block instead of t cheek block on the mast. Same or similar for the pole topping lift on the opposite side? And what about a pole downhaul?

How have others set these up? Any photos would be appreciated.

Thanks.

[sloopjohnl]

my '76 Ty came with a track on the mast including a car with a ring for the pole and the tang above the jib halyard exit up the mast, but that was it. i opted for an asymmetrical spinnaker and two turning blocks on the outer edges of the aft deck to direct the sheets to the genoa winches. easy peezy singlehanded.
i used the mast track and ring car for the whisker pole only.

[Steve Laume]

Rather than putting a bunch of holes in the mast to add cheek blocks, I installed one of these. I actually made one, years ago. You can then attach small blocks and lead them back to wherever you want to cleat off the lines.
One more point is that you should not take sheets, directly to the combing cleats. Always take the strain on a winch, first, as to avoid splitting the combing boards.

The Typhoon is a fun little boat, Steve.

https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat ... zer+Plates